Dave f

So Thursday I had olrileys order a stant for me when I went to pick it up yesterday they ordered a motorad that wouldn't work so I installed the old one and ordered a gates from Genos and having it delivered to where I'm going the guys at my local orileys seem to be complete boobs said they can get one but had to be special ordered.

Thank you, I didn't know that I have mine changed where I had the Trans rebuilt

Does synthetic fluid last longer/result in less wear extending life of a 47re auto Trans with oversize cooler and valve body/tc upgrades. What brand is good

So is the bottom bump critical then

So at this point im really considering putting the 180 back in due to the fact i need to haul my travel trailer this weekend to take my grandkids fishing and dont want to have issues with it until i can find the right t-stat all the ones i found have the flat bottom. Any ideas. Is it possible I'm just Overthinking this situation and i. Just not used to watching a digital temp guage vs an anolog and that the swings are just the t-stat opening and closing. Its just that its happening over such short distances.

Ok, so what would be the reason it would have a 180 in it. But the 190 one is the one I'm having issues with its like it's constantly opening and closing. My truck runs ice cold in the winter. I never idle warm it or It would take forever in winter I have a 15 mi commute in witch it doesent hit 180 till mile 15 in winter even after using the block heater when it's below 40 degrees in the morning. It's always been steady when it hits 180 never straying much more that a few degrees wether it's 30 or 105 why such weird swings now it will jump to 190 degrees after driving a block then dropping to 183 degrees two blocks later. Im confused

Ok gentlemen, been to all the local part stored and No one has one with the beveled part or nipple on it and dodge has discontinued it in 2013 . This is rather frustrating also the one I have in the truck now is a 190 everyone states is oem and the one I pulled out is a 180 WHAT THE @#$$#@ LOL sorry for the explative

So mine does look the same as per the top view of the one on the left. Are you referring to the rounded bottom so it sits in the kind of beveled portion of the block casting. If so never thought of looking at that not sure the one I pulled out looked like that. Need to check that out tonight

Mine was the same way till about a year ago stuck on 180. So I thought it might be weak when it started fluctuating . So the Chinese are just screwing with us by making inferior products and giving us something to talk about on our forums. So it's a car ona virus LOL.

Well at this point the swings are only 6-9 degrees. And mine does look like the one on the left. The thing I found weird is that it would cool while sitting and heat up 6 to 9 degrees while driving then go up and down while on the freeway. When it's normally the opposite way. Fortunately the old one is still in good shape just replaced it since i haven't before just kinda wondering if the sender is funky

Cool, it was the top end napa (balkamp) $30

Ok, does it eventually settle back down, ive owned this rig for 9 years and ive always had it flushed by a machine at a shop but i figured since I needed to do the wp and t-stat I would do it myself. But it's always been pretty steady temp wise untill now. I'm used to my power wagon gassed fill it and forget it lol

After draining, flushing and replacing water pump and t-stat I'm having some really weird temp issues. While sitting at a stoplight it reads 180, when I start driving it climbs to around 190 and then cools off again at the next light is it possible there is air trapped somewhere in the system. I followed the instructions in the article by moparman filling the block before installing the t-stat then filling the system via the radiator filler neck. How can I get it to burp the air out if that's the case.

UPDATE: let me start by saying that YOU GUYS ROCK !!!! After installing the raptor 4G 100, my truck runs like a BEAST again. Have not been able to draw the pump pressure under 15 psi in all modes of my edge tuner. It's so nice to have the power again I'll be testing it more next week as I'll be towing my travel trailer to do some camping. I have the BHAF on the way and will be installing it before I leave monday. Thank you all again for all the help/advice. ???

Ok, fortunately I cancelled the k &n kit. On the pump after some research it looks like a Delphi aftermarket oem replacement. I saw the one ibmobile posted and that's the one I saw in the video just kinda threw me off. Now on the BHAF replacement does the filter lip just insert into the turbo hose with a clamp or do I need a specific coupler

Can anyone tell me if this is a stock lift pump on my truck. I watched an installation video from thoroughbred and it does not look the same as mine just want to be sure I'm going to replace it regardless . Ok, great info thank you. So what your saying is don't waste my $$$ on a cold air setup

Well now approx 500 miles and still no issues. Just ordered the raptor 4g 100 gph lift pump and a k &n cold air kit. Any suggestions/tips on install.also any suggestions on a ho alternator

I live in nw oregon not a lot of snow here, we get it ocaisionally but usually not much and the temps rarely stay below freezing during the day. And everything shuts down when we get more than a couple of inches lol

Not sure about a shop yet I have spoke with pure addiction do you have any recommendations . Im thinking about a fass setup but not firm on it yet

UPDATE, after nearly 200 miles dead pedal problem is still gone yaay. Still kinda nervous about fuel pressure with the stock lift pump tho my edge juice w/attitude shows 17-18 psi at idle and can draw down to 10-11 psi when I hammer the throttle on a good uphill incline in stock mode. Is it accurate or does it appear the stock lift pump may be weak. Just want to know if I have a little time before I can get it replaced.

Thank you, I read that in one or your previous posts in some of my research this morning. I was able to retain the screws and returned it to napa who replaced the whole assembly. After which I made a 20 mile test drive with no issues so far and the code light is out for now. So I'm hoping the problem was a faulty part if/when it happens again I'll get a refund and buy a timbo. Trying to get an appt to upgrade the lift pump they are 3 weeks out right now.

Ok guys new possibly urgent issue, after completing the w-t ground mod procedure I removed the apps/bell crank assembly cover to check the sensor voltage, BOTH of the adjustment set screws fell out of the cover. How do I re-adjust them when I put them in. there is no voltage tag on the back of the apps sensor I assume it's due to being replaced as a complete assembly could this be the reason for the random dead pedal problem

Ok, I was finally able to get the codes read and they are as follows P0121 throttle/pedal position sensor a circuit range/performance P1389 no ads relay output voltage at pcm P1693 P0121 a 2nd time Can anyone explain them for me

Yes, sorry fat fingers syndrome. Lol

It's a 97.4 24v. I believe it's a stock setup as I've replaced the alternator 2x and everything matched up correctly