02cumminsdude

I emailed them and it's looking like I may have to go with a remanned vac pump, I haven't seen any brand new ones myself and they don't offer them for our trucks, only the 03-07's. But at $325 shipped that's not too bad compared to Dodge wanting over $900. Steering pumps, I am looking at PSC or Borgeson right now.

My vacuum pump seal is leaking and I am going to just dish out the money for new pumps as opposed to just replacing the seals and having to tear into it again or take it to a shop again later. So I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on aftermarket or remanned pumps. I think the guy at my shop said Dodge charges over $900 for the little freakin pump lol, I have already seen some Cardone A1 pump for like $300 so I may go that route unless they suck. I am hoping to upgrade, if that's even possible, especially the steering pump since I know our trucks steering can be quite shotty as is. Also, I think I will do the fuel lines from the vp to the injectors, the injectors themselves, transfer tubes, o-rings and all parts associated with it. I need to stop these leaks once and for all and I don't want to have to keeping tearing things apart because I didn't just replace them the first time I was in there.

Unfortunately, the headlight project is going to the back burner for now. I have a big $14-1500 bill coming my way for the inspection of my truck. E-brake system was pretty trashed, oil leaked from somewhere around the powersteering housing, a few of the injectors were leaking, passenger ball joint was shot and some other little misc. things. So unless a light goes out, I will be dealing with the lights as they are for a while, but please continue to post any info you have, I will need it eventually...

Thanks for the info above. Glad you posted it before I bought anything. I know I said I wanted the black headlights, but I think I will do the sport conversion and just make it a clear lens setup instead. That is the next best thing to match my white and black scheme. My truck goes in tomorrow for inspection, o-ring replacement and e-brake adjustment... so we will see how much that sets me back, then I will do the headlights.

Good to know. Maybe I will pick up a set of the black housings and post some before and after pics at night.

That'd be great, any info will help

What do you mean? Just use both sets of lights all the time?

If I do the sport lens conversion, the only option I will have is smoke them myself which I don't really want to do. I would like to buy a lens that is already darkened so I know it will be consistent and look nice. Also I don't have to worry about over darkening it myself. That's why I was wondering if maybe the bulbs just don't put out much light. The lights I have been looking at claim to be an improvement over factory lights, but I don't care if I have to swap in some more powerful bulbs in the new housings. - - - Updated - - - Yeah, I dont really want HID's either, but I need to make some kind of change. If I absolutely have to swap to sport lens, I will, but I'm hoping to find a better bulb or something that will put out more light, just looking for some suggestions.

My headlights aren't quite cutting it for me anymore. I had a similar issue with my 2000 V10's headlights, they just don't put out much light. Our 05 Silverado low beams are equivilent to my trucks high beams, especially in the rain. I am planning on picking up some "smoked" housings to go along with my all black and white color scheme. I was wondering if the brightness problems lie solely on the bulbs used, or will an aftermarket light put out much better brightness? Link to kit I am looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-01-DODGE-RAM-SMOKED-LENS-HEADLIGHTS-LAMP-ASSEMBLY-96-/220806310939 If it is a bulb issue alone, I have no problem buying this kit and then swapping some more powerful lights into them right away if that's possible. Thanks for any help.

Don't forget that you should never need to buy another one once you get an FD, it will never come apart like the OEM. I'm liking mine so far.

Well that's a good start. Another possibility I can think of might be some kind of turbo surge? You came to the right place though, more guys will chime in and help you out more than I can.

I am sure the first question popping up in everyones head here is, what is your fuel pressure (if you have a gauge) if not, that's probably the first step. I just recently fixed my surging issue with a new APPS, but mine happened more frequently than yours. - - - Updated - - - Also, did you use a scanner or do the key trick for the codes? Sometimes the key trick will not pull up all the codes.

I am heading down the same road pretty shortly. Probably going to have my shop do the install though. Good to hear the success with them, makes me look forward to getting mine.

Thats a good point Mike, I'm going to suck it up and get this job done as soon as possible also for the fact I'm wasting $4 dollar a gallon fuel on the streets... In the meantime I have my Camaro to drive and will only use the truck for short trips if needed (less than 5-6 miles roundtrip)

All I need to do at this point is just stop the leak. I will be replacing injectors with some rv275's and that's when I will do all new o-rings, tubes, the whole deal. I just really don't have the money to upgrade everything right now "just to upgrade". I mean, if something broke and I had HAD to replace it, I could put it on credit or something, but I like to save the money for the whole job before I spend it. Plus I will only have to tear it all apart once and done. - - - Updated - - - No luck. In fact, I made the leak worse. I don't know if running the truck with a weeping injector can cause any damage, but I'm going to let it sit for a while, buy all the parts I need on credit and just take it to my shop to have the job done, injectors and all... I wish I could do the job myself, but I just don't see it happening. Starting to get cold and dark early and I just don't have the motivation to work out in the street anymore. I'm not sure how much my shop will charge to do the job, but I know they will do it right for me. Thanks for all the help though guys, I wish I had better news to report back.

Well I guess tomorrow I will break out the scotch brite pad and some brake cleaner and try re-torquing the nut one last time before I order o-rings and go pulling out injector tubes. I'd hate to remove it only to find that o-ring is perfectly fine and all I managed to do was break a perfectly good seal to the injector. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

I took at look at my Haynes manual. They say pulling the connector tube requires removing the whole bank of fuel lines, is this true? Also, I remember reading a thread somewhere about the o-rings and someone said you can actually purchase an o-ring from the hardware store that will fit for cheap... I did a little searching and couldn't find the thread but does that sound right? I will be off work tomorrow and I want to see if I can knock this thing out without ordering o-rings and having to wait for them... any tips are appreciated, thanks.

I just got out there tonight after work. I pulled the #4 and 5 nuts, reset them and I am now just getting slow weep from the #5 injector. It's getting dark out in the street so I stopped and left it at that for now. You guys think I should replace the o-ring at #5? What exactly does that require? Like i said it was getting dark and I only had a flashlight between my neck and shoulder as I was working so I couldn't really see too much detail.

I will check that out if I decide to do the injectors, thanks.

Hopefully I just need to properly the torque the line then. If I need to go any deeper than that, I would rather just do the whole injector/o-ring job all at once. Wasn't planning on spending the money for injectors yet though.

I'm glad I posted before I made a move, that's why I love this forum lol. I did not remove anything when I did the pumps, just pulled the injector lines like you're supposed to and re-assembled. I did tighten them the other day to see if they came loose but they are nice and tight right now. So tomorrow I will clean the area with brake cleaner, pull the two nuts, and lightly sand the feral then re-tighten. I don't have any emery cloth, will a fine grit sandpaper work? I have just about everything from 120 to 2000 grit. I may even just add the tape to the threads just as a small precaution and extra seal. Like I said, new injectors are next on the wishlist so I will completely replace all this stuff when I get the RV275's I want.

Thanks for the tips guys, I will try this tomorrow. I suppose it is a little odd that the o-rings would just suddenly leak after I got done the VP swap since I didn't pull the injectors or anything. I do have one more quesion though, how do I tighten to spec when I can't put a torque wrench on it? I only have a standard torque wrench, is there some other method or type of wrench with an open end that will work around the injector line?

Yeah I'm thinking it's either the o-rings or maybe I didn't seat it properly after doing the new VP a few months ago. So are you saying the fuel isn't actually leaking from the threads on the nuts? I honestly can't tell EXACTLY where it's coming from when I watch it. It must just be a very slow oozing that builds up then channels its way behind the motor and drips off. But I can tell for sure it's the #4 and 5 lines. I was just thinking the tape might seal the threads and at least stop it from making a mess, not necessarily solve the issue itself.

I have a small leak at each and it drips it's way down to the trans and on the ground. I checked the return T fitting and the banjo bolt in the back and they are not leaking, so it's just the two injector lines. My idea is to see if I can temporarily stop the leaks with "rescue tape" (similar to teflon, but holds up to fuel and high temps) and just plug up the two nuts for now until I do a complete injector swap down the road. I just don't have the extra cash to dish out for injectors and it's getting a little cold to be working on the truck outside. I am just hoping to stop the leak so I can clean the mess it has been making over time in my street and not worry about it re-accumulating.

If I loosen the #4 and 5 injector nuts only, do I need to bleed the whole system again or can I just bleed those two lines by bumping the starter til they leak? Or do I not even need to bleed them for just removing the nut?