Bfranz

Alright, it seems as if the issue is fixed. I took it back to my transmission shop and they replaced the speed sensor (again) and the “external transmission harness” (from what I gathered he meant the speed sensor wiring harness). I will look in the future and report back which harness they replaced. Thank you guys for your support on this.

It appears as if all shifts at wot are completed at 3,000 RPM

Trans shifts from 1-2 at around 2900 (I was spinning, it’s snowing pretty good here) governor pressure matches desired until it gets to around 85 psi and that’s all it’ll go

I will warm it up tonight and check the 1-2 shift point. I want to say it’s around 3,000 RPM. I installed a suncoast governor pressure solenoid and block in way back when, I’m not sure if the transmission shop reinstalled it or not. I haven’t been inside of it since I got it back from them five months ago. I also installed a new “high pressure” transducer, which I’m not sure if they reused, at the same time as the governor pressure solenoid.

This is what happens during wot before the temp gauge reads 190. Tuning returned to stock, same as the last video. It appears as if the rougher the road the worse it is. It also seems to be getting worse the colder it gets. Here’s a list of what I’ve done to try to cure this issue in order: - Cleaned battery connections - W-T ground mods - Relocated alternator charge wire to passenger side battery with 150 amp circuit breaker - Timbo apps sensor (cured p0121 dead pedal) - New alternator - Unhooked field wire to alternator - New coolant temp sensor - Jumped transmission relay - Returned tuning to stock map via smarty IMG_0173.MOV

The W-T ground mod didn’t change anything.

The W-T mod has been done

It does get worse on rough roads. When I board the accelerator it stumbles and defuels, then starts accelerating, then repeats in this condition. I have an air dog Raptor 100 and it was set at 20 psi at idle and it dropped to 14, now it’s at 16 at idle and 10 at wot, I’ll have to readjust. Only time I can replicate it is when the pickup has been sitting and is somewhat cool, and ambient temps are below 60°. As soon as the temp on the dash reads 190° everything is normal and it functions as intended. I have checked for AC interference, there is minimal (20mV iirc) and there are no codes.

Update: I returned the tuning back to stock via the smarty and it still does it, but it’s not nearly as dramatic.

Okay, I talked to Dynamic and changed the coolant temp sensor, and also jumped the transmission relay. Neither worked. I did manage to get a video of the problem tonight to try to describe what the pickup is doing, if it may hell with further diagnosis. IMG_0159.MOV

Okay, thank you for your help. I greatly appreciate it!

Do I post on his part of the site?

Alright I performed the pcm ground wire splice repair. Still didn’t fix it.

Where is the pcm ground located? I might not have seen that part of the article.

I’m to the point to where I’m wondering if it might be PCM related. Like I said, the pickup quits downshifting and cutting throttle when the thermostat opens. I am honestly lost and frustrated at this point.

I can change both of those. Like I said above, it seems to go away when the engine thermostat opens and gets to operating temp. If that helps anything. I’m at a loss For what it’s worth, my abs and brake light are both on due to the right front wheel speed sensor being bad. Would that cause it?

Unplugged the field wires. Same thing with that harness unplugged.

Alright, I will try it after work. I apologize for my confusion, I’m trying to figure this out. I really appreciate your guys help on this. Just to be clear you want me to unplug the harness on the back of the alternator?

So you’re saying flip my circuit breaker before I’m driving and see if the issue goes away? Did you see my post above my mil code post?

I set my volt meter to AC and the voltmeter read 15-21 milivolts if I remember correctly. I replaced it yesterday with a reman and the Reman gave me the same reading as the original.

Only fault codes present are P0602 and P1693 which both go away when I remove the Smarty tune from the pickup. Pickup still acts the same when the Smarty is removed.

Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. Today, I installed a 150 amp circuit breaker from the alternator charge wire and ran it to the passenger side battery, away from everything. I also tested my old alternator for AC leakage, and my Fluke read somewhere around 20 mV. I decided I was going to take the alternator in to a parts store and have it tested. Passed. Took it to another parts store. Also passed. I decided I was already that far into it that I just went ahead and bought another alternator. Installed the new alternator, measured AC voltage, same result as the old alternator. I took the pickup out for a run and the same thing is happening. There is torque converter cycling, spuratic downshifting to third and sometimes even second. Now I have noticed this past week that it will happen in cooler weather temperatures (60 degrees Fahrenheit and below) and it seems like when the thermostat on the engine opens the problem goes away until its shut off and cooled back down. I have no clue where to go from here. Thanks guys.

Correct, that is the mod I did. I tried following W-T’s thread to a T. I just got confused when it got to the point where he relocated the charge wire. Do you just leave the other side of the 150 amp fuse in the pdc open? I understand there has to be a 150 amp breaker in line to the battery in case of a short or over current, I just get lost when it comes to the PDC. Thanks!

I have a 2001 Ram 2500 with just a little under 320,000 miles. When I bought the pickup last year I drove it home and it started doing the rapid torque converter cycling. When I got home I cleaned all the battery terminals. No help. I zip tied the ground wire to the frame of the alternator and it cured it. Then I was getting random dead pedals for about five seconds and I finally just got around to doing the ground relocation on the drivers side of the engine. I left the charge wire to the PDC because I’m not sure how to delete that (if anyone could give me input on that too that would be great). Now that I did the ground relocation I have intermittent dead pedals and torque converter surge again, as well as kicking out of overdrive. I just had the transmission rebuilt about a thousand miles ago too. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!