Crazy Wayne

I usually start off with a sharp gasket scraper or razor blade. I found using the the honing Stone Works the best you can visually see what is clean. I do like the idea of using the vacuum cleaner to suck up any fine particulate before flannel wipe down with brake clean

How did you prep the block before installing the last new head gasket. If you used one of those whirly wheel Sandy disc on a die grinder. You pretty much destroyed the sealing surface on the cylinder block. When I work for General Motors I replaced a lot of engine blocks.. Due to damage from sanding Wheels creating high and low spots on the Block deck. Mostly in the area of the crush ring near the combustion chamber. The best method I have found to clean the block deck. Is to use a new honing Stone for sharpening knives. I place rags and all of the cylinder holes to catch any contaminants. And dip the honing Stone into clean mineral spirits. And use the stones flat surface did clean off the block. Any carbon or other material left behind in the porosities. Is okay will not cause any problems unless it is in the area of this cylinder compression ring seal. Check the block deck with a straightedge and a light. I don't suggest using silicone on the head gasket as it will most likely he pushed into the oil orifice if not plugging it. I would repeat this process on the cylinder head to verify flatness. After all surfaces have been cleaned and checked. Use a tap and Chase down all the bolt holes in the block to make sure there is no material that would cause friction and give a false torque. I usually lightly oil the bolt threads to guarantee I get the actual torque clamping power. I usually wipe it down with some brake clean to remove any oil residue or other contaminants. Another thing I found that helped is torquing the head gasket down in 20 pound increments. And letting the headset for 5 or 10 minutes before making the last two passes of the torque pattern. This will allow any air or soft material to shift around in the gasket time to Settle Inn. Some head bolts are set with a pre torque of usually 50 pounds or so before going the final quarter of a turn. I usually start with 20 foot pounds on the first pass with those head bolts and then give it five minutes and bring them up 10 lbs at a time. Then I let it sit for 10 or 20 minutes. And retorque to the specification torque prior to the last quarter turn for he bolt stretch. This particular type head bolt is a one-time-use.

I don't think backing the retainer nut off 3 turns is the answer. As you are required to measure the depth of the retainer nut with a micrometer. It should be in three clicks. If you're idling high use a 10 mm socket and wrench and adjust the idle in the normal manner on the throttle arm assembly. If you back off the net one turn and the retainer detent clicks are not able to hold the net in place. You stand a high probability of having the nut backing off and Scatter mingle Springs in a hot mess fashion. possibly taking out the entire Governor housing and or assembly. And if it takes the control rack shaft with it you better talk to your bank about upping your credit card limit.

A link for P7100 / P71800 tool kit. https://www.stokkingdiesel.com/parts/detail/32752

You might want to check out web slingers videos he does a pretty good job on how to disassemble and reassemble you're p7100 pump Part 1 https://youtu.be/iYFfMWh_nP8 Part 2 https://youtu.be/v5Lhw__SVHs You might want to check this out you might be able to fix it just yourself since you're just dealing with the governor end of the unit and not the plunger calibration

Yes the problems of the rear ABS system. The ABS unit tends to dump too much brake fluid pressure into the accumulator. When backing the vehicle and applying the brakes the pressure is dumped into the accumulator. This happens at such a low pressure in the accumulator phase that the rear adjusters will not function. So you basically end up with rear brakes that are so far out of adjustment that your brake pedal goes to the floor boards. And you're breaking ability at all speeds from the rear axle is decreased. And when attempting to come to a stop at low speeds on icy roads. The engine is allowed to produce power through the rear wheels and push the front axle forward with the front wheels locked up. You can manually adjust the rear brakes which will cure the high speed braking issues. But an icy road conditions at low speed you're at the mercy of the accumulator pressure. The fix I've discovered is quite simple. Above the driver side rear axle in the frame Channel. You will find the ABS accumulator assembly. By simply removing the aluminum cap at the forward end. I suggest using a small pipe wrench or some large vise grips to hold the cast iron assembly as the bolts mounting it are quite small. There is no brake fluid in this end of the assembly. After removing the cap you should be able to pull out or catch the accumulator spring. Do not push the brake pedal down while this cap is removed or the accumulator piston will be pushed out of the assembly. By simply replacing the spring with a stiffer one. This will give you a increase of brake pressure to the rear wheel cylinders when the ABS is functioning. This will give you enough brake pressure to overcome the return Springs on the brake shoes. And the automatic adjusters will be able to do their job. When backing and applying the brakes because the brake shoes will be able to rock back and forth to ratchet the adjuster. And when driving on ice or other extremely slippery surfaces you will have the ability to have some breaking from the rear axle and possibly locking them up.