keydl

Have them step bore so the sleeve can't migrate and use locktight green for lube to install. It will cook out for the top 3 inches and take about 500F to let go if you pause in getting it in. But it will not move. A lot of people do not want to stop when it starts skip cutting, if the boring bar is not square it leaves a step that is easy to knock off with a die cutter. It checks well with persian blue on a scale - no print means that it clears, if it prints, cut the print some, wash it of and check agin.There are also sleeves with a step at the top that are intended to have the block decked after installation.If it would clean up at next larger piston size, I would just hone. The engine is metric, but the old gas stuff had no problem with one or two odd size pistons. Most would clean up at installing piston expanders - 3-5 thou and cutting .010 over rings to size. Even boring .010 over with the block inframe on a 3208 Cat seemed to work well, the repair was going well about 150k later when I left - it was over 450k on the clock. We did both heads , injectors and the broken piston.keydl

For those that prefer no muffler but have 'contact reports' because of the lack of a bulge in the pipe, just take 2 4 in to 5 in adapters and a couple feet of 5 in pipe and assemble into a convenient length of the exhaust pipe. For noise reduction a little fiberglass bat and some stucco mesh to hold the fiberglass in the 5in pipe. Use band clamps so the 5 in can be dropped out every year for more fiberglass. The length of 5 in sets the tone of the exhaust note and the depth of the fiberglass bat has a lot to do with the volume and undertones. I like 30 in but others like higher pitch, a 4 foot is a bit low. For further sound reduction add a 4 in disk 4 in from the outlet - same as a Supertrap TM muffler and end the fiberglass 4 in from the disk.My list is gages boost, engine oil temp, fuel pressure, air bag, trans temp, trans line and pyrometer.I did the driving lights on the frame for backup and fog lights and relays for the trailer lights and intend to put relays on the headlights that feed from the alt output stud.Jeeps do a relay set to protect the blower switch, I have to look at that.I am collecting parts for hydroboost on the brakes and rear disk conversion.Also looking for parts to put a polishing filter on the tank.A late model spare tire winch to make mounting the spare easier.A 'deer strainer', 'roo bar', or wrecker bumper with chain boxes and a hilift bracket set.On board air compressor.Well, maybe it' s a 5 year plan :)keydl

A 9600 # truck with a 30k winch on the back and a 60# boat anchor will back anywhere on the first shot. With a fairlead pulley it will go forward.A little experience makes retrieving the anchor much easier :)keydl

Phoenix, Denver, Colorado Springs, Tampa, Jacksonville and San Diego have tested. Diesel, propane and gas for fuel, and gas is the only fuel that they have sniffed the tailpipe. For propane they verify if it is dual fuel, for diesel most just listen. Colorado Springs wrote tickets for smokers on the road and once in the yard. Tampa pulled out a machine to compare the tailpipe to an opacity sample. That is where the big tips help by spreading it over a wider space. I got a snap idle at the southern I95 port in Va - but it had a test switch that I set before going in - big cam 400 Cummins turned up to 900 hp with the internals to stand pulling the power on the top side of the trans.The only time that I intended smoke was 30 miles form delivery and the turbo exhaust seal quit sealing. I guess the 3 gallons of oil used in 30 miles resembled mosquito fogging.keydl

I guess the thing that I wanted to point out was that the chemistry - that I have mostly forgotten - the results are almost as probable to be 62 points or 300 points for the difference. Single point on a graph. Two points make a trend and 10 points will draw a line - either faired for % of accuracy of the results or spot on because the tests are well designed for the purpose. He had a special deal of $50 a test, sounds 1/2 price - that may be subsidised by the company that filled the spaces between biodiesel and 2cycle.It would be a good advertising expendeture for a product coming to market. I don't think that anything is off - except all of the info on 2cycle is 1:128 not 1:200. I have not seen that ratio anyplace but there. Just call me paranoid I would have bought in at 1:100 because that is the highest listed on the product label.What I really want to know is what it takes to make a HFRR of 350 to meet the design for my engines.Maybe we need private brand or a pump kit to measure the amount. The more we charge the more most people will want the stuff.An extra tank (5 gal) lines ( ss braid ) a chrome 1 oz pump and a kit to bolt it on and fill from gallons or 5 gallon jugs. $800? :)keydl

The actions are actually to justify that they have been sucked up by the advertising and spent all that money - and maybe damaged their equipment. They would have to admit err on their part to do otherwise, the energy that they use is just type 'A' personality, typical for a sales weasel.keydl

You have emissions testing in Idaho? I thought that it was only the EPA failed cities that were required to do that.keydl

There is a rather complicated formula for predicting solutions, as tin and lead making solder and melting at a lower temp than either of the seperate metals. The curves were generally dog leg in that the change went linear on the short chart unless on the dog leg part of the chart.Another example would be the expansion of water when it freezes- from 23F to 24F it expands 10% but then it starts contracting - so protecting to 24F will solve the breakage of stuff containing water. No broken blocks of split pipes, you just can't use them because of the hard water problem ( ice).I think that the 200:1 ratio may have been to show the Optilube products above rather than below 2cycle, at $50 per test in a certified lab there is a good possibility that the tests were subsidised. Not much they can do about the B2 results - it is he lowest mix slod.Do you want to take up a collection to test other ratios?keydl

Mike, I just want to say thanks for the study and having access to the safety sheets to get the contents of most of the additives. It connected the dots for me, I have pulled wrenches and driven for several years, I watched even when I was pushing broom, I knew the stock at my dad's shop and read the labels and asked dumb questions.So for the record the injection equipment on the engine was designed for the fuel avail at the time ( old Cummins 350 HRRF on standard diesel ) and it will run best and longest when it is fed correctly.The 2cycle seem to meet this at 1:128 and seems to do the same thing that it is designed to do - lubricate the upper ring. In a gas 2cycle the mix oil provides all of the lube, main, rod, reed, ring and piston, but the upper ring is the first to score the cylinder when some one uses non mix gas.When car engines were worn out with 40-50k because of poor oil, no filters and loose tolerances, they advertised upper cyl lube and stocked it every where. When better oil, filters and better machining raised the mileage at the salvage yard above 140k they quit pushing the upper cyl lube and started pushing the STP and other junk ( yes it will keep one running with oil consumption of more than a quart in 400 miles so the use drops to 1 qt in 1k miles ) but more parts are worn out, that is if you fix it.Now selling paint thinner as diesel additive really goes into profiteering. I gotta go get one of those magnets to stick on my fuel line for $300, the advertising is just overpowering. Except the magnet is a one time scam and causes no harm, the results from thedieselplace show harm from the use of some additives....... But the advertising is so strong.....keydl

The emissions testing that I have had done on diesels was only opacity ( smoke ) at different conditions, from snap full throttle from low idle to run on rollers at road speed. A very smokey NA passed - 53 hp Isuzu to a 3208 Cat that smoked cold, I had to cardboard the radiator in 70 F weather to hold the temp up to pass, the next time I cardboarded the radiator and pulled the fan belts in 30 F weather but had to go get a 12x60 trailer to work the engine to get it warmed enough to stop smoking. Cost an extra 40 miles of running. Best solution is to ask the law on diesel emissions - it either has the protacall or gives a reference. Stock turbo diesels have no problem until they are hard to start, modifications that cause over fueling will normally not pass any but the road speed on rolls without help.keydl

We need to get a monograph that covers all of the stuff with links to paste on the trools. I am sure that there are a couple of items missing for an all purpose post. Some of my language is regional and some outdated, I started working as a mechanic in '60 on the hi plains so feel free to edit. I have got to get the book out to put in links. Because I see so many trools, pasteing on them is probably the best way rather than do a new thing each time. Might even have a look at where they come from because they are not confused or misguided.I see an agenda to kill old vehicals: in the legislature and the change in fuel specs. Removing the lead from gas was done in an unconstitutional way when it would have been easy to do it a different way and followed the constitution - tax tetraeythle lead to raise the price above the price of unleaded and use the results for lead remediation.keydl

There seems to be more than a little variation in the reported results, some is operator error, what they write is mechanically improbable. They do not have a record in fact that will support what they write. My opinion is that without at least 1k miles with a single variable that the results are not supported with records because of the way that the measurements are taken. Anybody pumped 120F fuel? I have a ray gun but I do not take fuel temps and I have pumped fuel that was hard to hold the nozzle, and it was 119F. Not because I take fuel temps but because it was to hot to handle with comfort, next month 'Landline" magazine had a hot fuel artical.I do not wonder that you find the flack confusing, I think that as many as 10% of the posts concerning 2cycle are trooles. Had one on a HD truck maint forum this week with a real display of a lack of knowledge but lots of opinion.Mike's data on this site is, by a factor of more than ten, the largest data set for the use of 2cycle. He made a logic connection that I knew but never connected, the manufacture intends the lubrication of a gas engine to be done with 2cycle oil and that oil to be burned with the gas. The new ULSD does not have the lubricity that the manufactures asked for but they were aware of the spec for the latest design cycle, whether they met the the fuel design with the engine design will take 10 years of use in the real world out side the lab. That the fuel is not correct for the earlier designs is a fact and has already been demonstrated with the last fuel spec change.The dieselplace.com did a lab test with raw fuel and additives off the shelf ( to prevent ringers from the additive manufactures - there is a lot of money involved ) and a copy of the results is here some place. It is educational but more to the point is the stuff that they were selling as additives ( trade secret ) but the federal law made them tell the fire depts and the random worker what they were working with ( most had no interest ). The info wound up on the web, connected with the product and the manufacture so now you know we were pouring paint thinner into diesel to make things 'work better'. The sales weasels sold a lot of stuff.It may get out of hand and the fuel spec include 2% biodiesel in the future, so the fuel meets the engine manufactures requested spec.In the meantime Mikes's recommend of 1 oz of tc-w3 rated 2cycle oil to 1 gallon of #2 diesel is a safe way to go, zero reported problems.Want to learn more?The manufactures of synthetic 2cycle show 100:1 on the label, I have run the 100:1 in 2cycle equipment that has a recommended mix ratio of 32: for several hundred hours ( and bought a lot fewer sparkplugs ) so the way that I see the synthetic thing is - use less. It is STILL made by the manufacture to go through the engine and the label advocates 100:1 ratio. I think that the fuel mileage increases reported come from ring lubrication by the 2cycle oil, and that synthetic is more persistent at this location than the dino stuff. Most of the engine manufactures tolerate up to 10% used engine oil in the #2 diesel, in the past I have run 20% used engine oil in a Cummins 400 and a Toroflow with no problems.Want to contribute to the knowledge base?If you engine has not been fed 2cycle and you have a hand calculated mpg figure that runs 2 or 3 tanks to help the accuracy in filling thing - I think that 1/4 oz per gallon of synthetic 2cycle will do the same as 1 oz per gallon of dino but have no data to support this WAG. So I am looking for interested people. I think that the injection pump and lift pump will make better than 1/2 million miles and fuel mileage go up 1 to 1.,5 mpg. May not do anything but if it does the avoided cost of a pump or 2 saves a bit of money and the fuel savings will pay the 2cycle oil.If not the cost is a jug of 2cycle oil at more than the $8.56 a gallon for the cheap stuff and the record keeping.The reason for starting low is that the dilution of a heavier mix may take a couple of tank fillings to get the ratio that you are wanting but a lighter mix you just need to add for the heel amount.For the engines that require ULSD the 2cycle is not yet recommended.keydl

It didn't last latest is 19.89 mpg on dino, 207 miles 40 with the equipment trailer.But now I can turn the OD on with a switch.keydl

The last before the thermostate was 17.73 for the tanknext was 19.03 that included selling 6030 # of iron When I filled to head in the posted was $3,38 (save 2 cent a gallon) and It was Evinrude brand marine and the tank was 19.89 mpgThe other half of the pint gave a reading of 20.35 which is about 1 mpg up from the long averageIt is getting close to time to fill agin, this tank has the cheap dino at 1 oz per gallon.The oil appeared to be miss marked at $2.95 for a pint the same as there dino oil and cheaper than by the quart, go figure. I found a couple of gallons of dino at the thrift store for $.50 a pint so they followed me home. Before I run out of what I have I will get the rec'ts on a spreadsheet so I have the long average running beside the tank average.keydl

I wound up with a pint of synthetic and used 1/2 oz per gallon. High 19's at the next fill and broke 20 after the second 8 oz.That is in the 5% improvement range at 1/2 the oil as a rough figure.keydl

Mine is up, they are sending the dense fuel south this year.The Dodge had a thermostate that seemed a little low and the OD would engage in the cool after a rain but it was mid 19's.Thermostate stuck open in the summer and the fuel tickets showed a drop of apx 1.7 mpg, replaced it with a Stant 180 and back to the mid 19'sI left the 2cycle in the pile when I picked up a load of iron so when I fueled the pints on the shelf were synthetic so I used 1/2 oz per gallon and the next tank was high 19's. The following tank got the balance of the synthetic and beat 20 for the first time.Yesterday it would not start on the key so the first place to check the problem was at the starter and it cranked right up. No connectors fro the neutral safety switch so I made some with GM weatherpac terminals and heat shrink. It now starts and has backup lights, while I was under I put a lead to the tan /silver stripe wire for the OD solinoid. Now when I ground the wire it shifts into OD. When I find a pressure control for the govenor port on the trans it will be fully automatic. :)Fueling a Detroit 500 south of DC on the I95 or I75 routs costs about .3 to .45 mpg the same as winter fuel north of DC so in the winter fuel season it makes no difference but in the summer fuel north of DC and buy 40-50 gallons to get back to the higher mileage fuel. Difference in HP also, there are 2 hills that the fuel will make a gears difference on the uphill side.This is the first year for ULSD, some place it was reported that winter blend is 1/2 #2 and 1/2 #1 diesel. In the 60's a coup;e of places winterized with 7 gallon of gas per 1000 gallon of #2 and if you wound up heading south they wanted you to fuel often. You might ask what the winterization is on the fuel you are using. They may even tell you.keydl

I don't see a problem with the figures nor do I see a problem with the mix. The guess that the syn 2cycle would work as well at less oil for a very close $ cost is what I was considering.I was loaded so the oil carton was not right to hand. So on the shelf was syn in pints and 8 oz for 15 gallon is just close but the sound level dropped slightly at apx 1/2 the dino mix and has stayed down for two 1/2 tanks with the dino. So I still think that if somebody wants to 'work up' that the place to start with syn 2cycle is 1/4th oz per gallon.I am now quite sure that I do not at this time understand all that I know about this. it is about time to put the paper scraps onto a spreadsheet.One thing - the stuck open thermostat was worth about 1.7 mpg, when I replaced it the mpg is right back in the mid 19's per tank with up to 1 1/2 ton on mixed with empty. And the OD works about 10% of the time so it is going to get wired with a pressure control soon.keydl

That looks like locktite and RTV. locktite is a specialized glue to keep things from vibrating loose. It cures in close confines, think threads or bushings. Green for shaft and stud lock, blue for hand assemble and disassemble, red ( one part # ) heat to disassemble. There is a penatrant for assembled bolts. I saw some yellow but I think it was not a Permatex branded product. RTV is a replacement for gaskets to keep the insides inside. When parts are machined they are a little rough so that oil or coolant will leak, the purpose of a gasket is to slow the leaks. RTV is room temperature vulcanising and is a weak glue that cures with moisture from the airBlue is O2 sensor safe, Red is hitemp, clear is the first that I found, some of the black is marked 'O2 sensor safe' Another way to do the return line is a banjo bolt for the crankcase drain with a steel line above the oil level. Makes a good place to change the oil with a vacuum transfer, like an inboard boat. No mess, no drips. Same with putting oil in, put it in the transfer tank and put it in through the bypass filter. keydl

Happens most years near about this season in most corners of the world.Did you want it to stop?keydl

The vapors are mutanigenic, not for huffing.Do you suppose that I was accidently exposed?keydl

Gage checks? Voltmeter - read the battery with a volt-ohm meteroil pressure - tee at the sensor or add mechanical at the second tap on top of the oil filter ( where the turbo oils fromwater temp - dip sensor in boiling water... 212F at sea level, 194 at 6k elevation - I think, been a while, infrared thermometerFuel - fill tankair filter restriction - hand vacuum pump to check calibrationboost -gage tee'd intrans temp - thermometer, thermocuple, infrared thermometer, a second gagepyrometer - infrared thermometer, thermocouplespeedometer- GPSodometer - GPSfuel pressure - valve and tee for gage under the hoodMost don't consider an infrared thermometer a truck gage, its portable, its a tool but if you want to check wheel bearings you can take them apart and look or load them and take their temperature. Much more than 50F above ambiant is cause for a look, unequal side to side other than sun load. Just walk around the truck and click on hubs and treads after running an hour or more. Low air pressure = hot tire, bad wheel bearings = hot hub, hot differential = low oil or bad bearings, hot battery = bad battery or voltage regulator, one battery is hot = hot battery is bad, unhook the ground to save the other one for some thing else. Batteries are a set, unbalanced batteries will self discharge unless the ground is disconnected. Time to full voltage is the amount of discharge from a battery. So if you replace 1 and the recharge time goes way up, they will self discharge if left hooked togather.keydl

My blinker fluid is in a propane jug, that way it does not go sour, it will last more than 5 years with out putting it in the refrigerator for the summer. The filler plug is replaced with a valve so they can be filled in the summer, I put a valve on the drain to, don't like getting the stuff on my hands and it eats the gloves when it is warm.South of I-10 if you see a car blinking, you can be sure that it came from the dealer that way, they have such trouble getting the right amount in both sides. The pressure fittings let you over fill it for about twice as many blinks.With a 10# propane jug you just pull a vacuum on the jug and with the blinker fluid precooled in the freezer, you stick the hose in the container and let the vacuum pull the blinker fluid into the propane jug. Work fast but stay in the shade because the sunshine turns the volitils mutanagenic. Be very careful where you dispose of the drained blinker fluid, if the cats find it they grow to about 90 pounds. I left some out to evaporate and a stray got into it, then he tried to take on a Mack truck, When we skinned him the pelt shrank back to normal size as the blinker fluid evaporated. Glad that I didn't call Animal Services, they would have called the EPA and I would still be filling out forms. We ground the cat for fishing chum, did not seem to work well but a couple of weeks later they were trying to bite the bare hooks. Stayed about 10 min and brought back 2- six foot allegater gar and 10 three foot red snapper, never seen that before.keydl

Wait until there is a real snow, that little shovel won't keep you warm Short sleeves, must be above 0 Why is it when I have trouble - it is -10 with a 50 mph wind and wet with salt water because some city type thinks slush over ice gives more traction and nobody to take a picture, but it's to dark to take a picture anyway.Last time I did not make it over the pass was when Wolf Creek Pass had 13 feet of new snow. Spent 3 days in Pagosa Springs waiting for the plows to open the pass. I would have been on the pass except that the Cortez Port of Entry did me a real good turn, I was running in the weather and picked up 9k of ice under the truck. He let me go down to International and get it steamed off. The 4 hours was the difference between spending the storm on the pass or in town.Today ? I would run the extra 100 miles down to 40 to cross the divide with a much lower elevation on 3 passes instead of 2 higher passes.keydl

I put a set on the rear spring hangers on a Chevy. One stock BU light on the switch and the other on a relay with the driving light lamps in rubber housings, put the relay behind the tail light and added a power hook up to the battery. #8 wire and a 40 A fuse.Going to do the same to mine except the light will mount to the kelderman air bag bolt and show about 3/4 under the hitch. That way it will push up out of the way behind the hitch if I push into something. Power point, one backup light, relay, trailer power and trailer backup fed from the same wire. Other backup light and relay fed from transmission switch.If you have short lamp life - vibration from the axle on the road - moving to the sway bar mount bolts with an angle bracket will lose the vibration.keydl

The word is still choice.Choices from $5 to $5k. Or get inventive a DIY fire extengushier - 10 pound boxes of sodium bicarbonate and it is down to $4 at the discount grocery.The whole list, installed? Probably approching $80k. If that kind of money is floating for Christmas, you both should be driving new trucks once or twice a year so the rest of us can buy your used ones.How about a tufer - a raincoat. Button it on the seat back, put a bunge and a short piece of pipe to hold the bottom of the seat back in place and a couple of marbles and bunges to hold the coat tail down and keep it in place on the seat as you get in and out. Add a bungeball to a sleeve to store a change of clothes. You are generally wet before going and getting the raincoat When you have had a bad day at the corral just get in the truck, when you need to look clean either take it off or hang it on the fence and throw a couple of buckets of water on it. First one makes mud and second washes the mud off Or tie it on top of a sage before a rain....keydl