Dumb A

Thanks for the APPS Mike....

Great, thanks for the info, I will be checking back and get one when they are in stock.

Just finished building my 02 5.9 and took it out for a test drive, all went well. Before I tore the engine down I was having intermittent dead pedal. I'm likely going to need to replace the APPS? Is one better than another? And possible source? Thanks everyone!!!

All of you have brought up good information and I believe history the most. When Tractorman says he has 297 K on a needle pilot bearing before it failed, that's real... I also believe Tractorman is correct in saying any bearing may have failed at 297 K. That said I also believe that low load and intermittent demand, as all of you have stated are the reasons for longevity of this bearing. I think we all agree that contamination is the biggest reason for failure. Now the failure question, when this needle bearing fails while riding on the input shaft it will likely gall the input shaft due to needle breakage. Whereas a ball bearing with inner and outer races may afford you some warning prior to eating up the input shaft. Dragging the input shaft between shifts or bearing noise with clutch depressed may tip you off. This is why I'm interested in getting away from the needle bearing. I priced a flywheel with the sealed ball bearing for 297 and that seems like the best way forward and less expensive then replacing an input shaft down the road. It's been educational talking with all of you, thanks for your input and years of experience with these trucks, it's very helpful!!!

Okay, here is some physics to consider. Pilot shaft diameter = .750 and the needle diameter = .093 so per every revolution of the pilot shaft the needle turns 8 times. (.750÷.093) that means at idle 800 rpm, you depress the clutch peddle, those needles are spinning a polite 6400 rpm. Toss a little heat, debris and frictional stress in the recipe and it becomes apparent the task we're asking this bearing to do. Pretty impressive they last as long as they do. This also supports my reasons for a bushing or larger ball bearing with larger balls (turning slower) and sealed to keep debris out. So what will it be??? A .500 caliber round through the side of the block or should I cut the truck in half with a large hacksaw??? Of course the last two questions are hypothetical.... Tractorman has it correct to what failure do we build these trucks? "I get to live with the consequences" but hopefully there is a lot of pleasure in-between failures.

Yep, that's how this one works. OD=1.000, ID=.750, so 1/8 wall on this bearing. That means the rollers are probably .093 or 3/32. That just seems like planned failure.

Thanks for the info Tractorman, I'm doing a complete rebuild on this engine and from the looks of it the transmission and clutch, they were rebuilt/replaced about 6K ago. I thought I saw something about an oversized bearing for this application. I don't like that the bearing uses the input shaft as the inner race. I would much rather see a hardened inner race as well as sealed to keep the debris out. It appears that on the last assembly they got a bit rough with it and damaged the edge of the bearing. Maybe hit it with the input shaft?

Anyone have a suggestion for a pilot bushing rather than the needle bearing in my flywheel. Maybe a supplier. I have sworn off DAP. It looks like a weak design and I've seen pictures of input shafts chewed up after these have gone buggy.

Silverwolf, I will look into Cummins OEM rebuild kit. I don't know the history of this truck, obviously abused though. Bought it not running. Two pistons were tapped by intake valves and 4 pistons have cracks. The bores look good and measure out at 4.015 diameter, still see cross hatch marks in bores. I've run the truck 3500 miles and can still read the dip stick through the oil and no blow by or wind in the basement!!! I will lift the engine out in the morning and disassemble it to see what needs to be ordered. The head measured at the low limit 4.125 thickness. So it has been surfaced a couple of times? New head time @ 208K miles. I will get her back up and running again.

Have any of you used the rebuild kit from Diesel Auto Power.

I bought it 6 months ago, rebuilt the rear end, got it running and have 3500 miles since that time. The problems have been many. I'm likely going to do a complete rebuild on the engine. Any recommendations on a complete engine rebuild kit, source, better quality is preferred, no Chinese garbage. The head looks pretty good but I will take it in tomorrow and have it checked for flat and cracks along with valves and seats. Dripley, I don't think I posted about a cracked head but I did post a head leak issue a bit a month or so ago. That problem was a sensor had been screwed into the 3/4 npt port in the back of the head and was leaking coolant from it. I replaced it with a npt plug and fixed that problem. Just to discover a leak on #6 connector tube, got that fixed, new tubes and discovered a leak at the head gasket, driver's side all the way aft. That's why I removed the head, just to find cracked pistons and valve contact. I should have shot this truck with a 50 cal. round months ago. While that doesn't fix anything it would have put a grin on my face.

I will take my head in tomorrow and get it checked out, I had a small coolant leak at the back of my head, driver's side. I was attempting to get everything lined up in preparation for the worse case scenario, cracked head.... That's why the questions. What I also found was cracked pistons on 1,2,3 and 5, along with hit marks from the intake valves on top of the pistons on 2 and 5. The last picture was my coolant leak, head gasket failed... Also I should have mentioned that the parts list is from DAP.

Hello everyone, my questions today start with this list of parts, loaded head, ARP studs, three piece manifold and OEM gasket for my 02 Cummins. I don't plan on boosting HP but have RV-275 injectors and a power puck. Looking for dependability... Is there better quality parts that I should be looking for than the parts listed below. A better supplier. Better price. Just trying to make a good decision rather than my usual mistakes, thanks everyone!!! Item Qty Price Total Loaded cummins head 5.9L PSP-PP-24vhead-LOEM 1 $1,420.00 $1,420.00 1686: 3852 $199.00 $199.00 ARP 12mm Headstud Kit - 247-4202 ARP-247-4202 1 $433.88 $433.88 Genuine Cummins Standard Thickness Head Gasket CMS-3977063 1 $145.99 $145.99 DAP Assembled 3-Piece T3 Exhaust Manifold Pyro Tapped With Gaskets - 24VT3M DAP-24VT3M 1 $349.00 $349.00 $2,547.8

I will rent one from the parts store in the morning and give it a try....

Update, just test drove the new RV 275 injectors and connector tubes. No more high pitch tick tick tick, no more pressure in my fuel tank and no more slobbering fuel on #6 injector tube where it connects to the high pressure line... Now to figure out where the coolant leak is... I cleaned up the engine and will fire it up in the morning, checking for the coolant leak at the rear of the head.... Thanks again for all your help.....

This is great information for me, thanks again... If I'm understanding correctly a slight bump in HP and possibly a bump in mpg with the RV 275 injectors... That's good enough for me at this point. I've noticed someone installed a Powerpuck on this truck. That as I understand it advances the timing a bit. This may assist the RV275 injectors??? Less or no smoke. As of now I don't notice any black smoke when I'm coming up to speed and seeing boost of 28-30 psi. I may be pulling the head depending on what I find pertaining to the small coolant leak. If I do pull the head it will be going back together with ARP studs....

Hey Dripley, thanks for the head nod. I'm a newbie with these Cummins and wouldn't have made it this far without all the help and experience you folks pony up. Thanks to all of you!!!

Just ordered a set of RV 275 injectors and connector tubes from DAP.

When will you have more in stock, do they come with connector tubes, how much are they. Are we talking about the 275 RV injectors, are they Bosh.

Took longer than expected but this is what I found. I have air bubbles in the return line. I also found air bubbles and fuel escaping from #6 injector where the high pressure line attaches to the connecting tube. I tightened a bit but didn't seem to help. I also noticed a droplet of engine coolant coming from the head gasket just under the npt plug that I recently changed. I don't know if it is coming from the plug or the head gasket. My questions are do I replace one injector and connector tube or replace them all. The truck has 210K and I don't know if they have been replaced. I've seen people say that the 50 HP RV injectors boost HP and milage. I don't understand how that works? Where should I purchase them and how much should I spend. I'm assuming Bosh injectors? Once I get the fuel leak stopped I should be able to tell where the coolant leak is? It is running down the outside edge of the bell housing. I may not have gotten the npt threads sealed up when I replaced it.... I've worked on ships half of my life as a marine engineer and got the nickname "liquid plumber" because half of what I put together leaks just a little...

That will be my test for tomorrow... Thanks again!!!

Okay, that's what I thought, because it seems to be making air in the tank, positive pressure. Now could a electric fuel pump also be the problem, pulling air in on the suction side of the pump thereby pressurizing the tank.

I now understand what this port is, thanks. Now my question is how does this port let positive pressure out of the tank. Yesterday I removed the rubber cap from this port attached a hose and blew air from my mouth into the tank. I heard it bubbling in the tank. So I know it passes air one direction. This would be to prevent a vacuum or negative pressure in the tank. I didn't suck on the hose as I didn't want to drink diesel.

Thanks!!! I will try all these fixes tomorrow and snap a picture of the fuel module as well.

02 ram 3500 5.9 Cummins. When I remove the fuel cap the tank releases pressure, is this normal? I looked for a breather for the tank but didn't find one. What I did find on the fuel module was a suction, return and capped 5/16 port. I removed the cap and attached a hose to it then blew into the tank. I could hear bubbling so I figure this is a auxiliary suction port? Dose this tank have a vent? If so where is it located. The reason for these questions is I feel it has a starting issue. In the morning, cold start, WTS, crank crank crank, short start and dies. Ignition off, back on, WTS, crank crank crank, starts and runs fine. This is 90% of the time. When warm crank crank start, always. The other 10% of the time it's ignition on, WTS, crank crank crank, crank crank crank, crank crank crank, start and runs fine. I have a new afe filter being shipped to me it is questionable. Lastly the fuel pressure gauge should be here next week, isspro AV-2. The electric fuel pump is on a manual switch. I turn it on and off. It is located forward of the tank.