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Nathan S

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Nathan S last won the day on January 17

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  • Location (City, State)
    Craig, Colorado

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  1. I’m in northwest Colorado, and -30 in the winter isn’t uncommon in this area. I leave mine plugged in all night if I’m going to use it the next day. I’ve done this with this truck since 2008 and the first gen I had before for a couple of years. I’ve never had to replace the block heater either. There are outlets in the parking lot where I work for block heaters so I will use one cord for the block heater and another for the small space heater in the cab. It’s pretty nice to not have to scrap snow and ice off the windows in the morning and have the heater blowing luke warm air right away.
  2. That make sense. This morning I tried 16* on the base map at 1500 rpm with 1.5* of Max load offset and 2* of low psi timing reduction. The surge was still there but not as pronounced, I bumped the base timing up to 16.5 and it cured it. I was pulling too much timing before because the base map was set to low. Cutting the scaling down to 40% helped because it reduced the amount of timing pulled at low load. Now all the functions work as they are intended and it drives much better. I started the can bus table at 85 and increased by 2 through the whole map and the surging at higher boos
  3. I think I’ve gotten the tune working better. I have lowered the Max timing offset, lowered timing to 17 degrees at 2000 rpm and lowered the timing reduction scaling to 40% and the stumble in 2nd gear is gone. It was swinging timing from 18 degrees down to 12 then sharply back up to 18 as the load would increase then decrease. After the adjustments today, the lowest timing I saw was 13.5 degrees with the load about 50%. I did adjust the can bus map as well. The surge around 15 pounds of boost is still there, but not as pronounced as before. There was 0 smoke output from the exhaust so
  4. Hey thanks! Good to know there’s another member in the area I didn’t notice this before. I will adjust that and try it out to see if the surge is as pronounced as before, thanks for catching that.
  5. I haven’t seen above 20 degrees on timing yet. Moving the low boost timing reduct to 0 from 1 degree seemed to help the most. I think a lot of it is going to just be learning the new system. I did do one pretty good pull, not quite 100% throttle, and at the truck seems to react really well. There is no smoke at all, the peak egt was about 1300 degrees at the top of fourth gear. It is much smoother than the edge programmer was. Do you think the 21.2 degrees of timing at 2500 rpm is too high? The truck didn’t bucks or backfire or anything, but it did sound different than it has in the
  6. I will try reducing the Max timing by half a degree to 25.5 and bump the low boost scaling up 10 psi and go try it and see how it acts. Thank you for the help.
  7. I got my Adrenaline installed about a week ago and have playing around with a couple of tunes. I got a tow tune set up that I think will work well and a daily driving tune. Both base maps were built from the excel spreadsheet. So far I am beyond happy with the product and can’t believe how it runs compared to the edge. The first question I have concerns the light load timing advance on the tow tune. Do I want to have the light load threshold lower than what the truck cruises with a load at so it’s not constantly advancing the timing then pulling it back out with every small grade change
  8. One thing that I am having difficulty understanding is the difference in the can bus fueling and the wire tap fueling as fas as how it is delivered. As far as injection pump operation, how are they different? I guess what I mean is how does commanding a percentage of fuel higher than 100% for a given boost level differ from just extending the injection event? Edit: Im not sure how I missed the thread where it’s all explained, or maybe it was just all information overload at first but I believe I found answers to my questions in the “What is canbus fueling” thread. Thank you guys for
  9. I recently received my new Quadzilla Adrenaline from DAP, and I’ve been doing a lot of reading on this site, watching videos on YouTube, and I downloaded the Excel tune builder and have been playing with that. I’m very excited to learn and to start tuning the truck. I’m coming from a 12 year old edge juice with attitude that stays on level 3 with the low boost fueling on 1 all the time. I have used the tune builder to build starting point tow and daily driver tunes based on my elevation and injector size. I know it is going to take some time with the truck and the load it will be car
  10. I’ve had two sets of injectors from DAP now and been happy with both. The first set I purchased from them will be rebuilt to match the new set so I have spares should I ever need one. The sales person I spoke with on the phone when I ordered the second set was very knowledgeable, listened to my concerns with the truck without talking over me or trying to up sell things I didn’t need. I will definitely use them again.
  11. The only trucks I have experience with that have an automatic and an exhaust brake are all newer trucks that the exhaust brake is integrated in to the truck using the VGT. I’ve never been in a 2nd gen or 3rd gen 5.9 with an aftermarket brake and automatic so I’m not much help on whether they downshift with the converter locked or not.
  12. These transmissions have brass or carbon fiber synchronizers to increase or decrease shaft speed when the next gear is being selected to make the transmission shift smoother and eliminate the need to match engine speed with wheel speed. It’s not good for the synchros to float the gears so to speak. I’ve seen guys do it and tried it myself, but it’s not how the transmission was intended to be used. Heavy duty transmissions like the medium and heavy duty Eaton fuller boxes have no synchros hence the need for rev matching and more skill to operate than a light duty manual transmission.
  13. Absolutely not. I have a good southbend dual disc clutch so I can do all the exhaust brake down shifts I want and I don’t have to worry about hurting the clutch. I even push the clutch in to shift the gear vendors, and make sure the main transmission shifter is in neutral before engaging or disengaging the gear vendors.
  14. If you do end up doing a manual swap I would recommend finding and nv5600 or g56 six speed transmission. I’ve got the nv4500 transmission which is great, don’t get me wrong, but the split in ratio between third and fourth gears is huge. With my 285/65 tires and 3.55 axle gears, the truck will go from 2300 rpm when I shift out of third down to 1250 in fourth. That’s fine for normal around town driving but towing it’s a pain for sure. I’ve since added a gear vendors overdrive to the truck, and this eliminates that dead spot between gears but hindsight says I should have just found a 6 speed tra
  15. I agree with this, but the sizing of the turbine and exhaust housing and compressor technology has been vastly improved. I have a friend with an 01 that has roughly 150s and a 62 but the turbine and housing are so mismatched you have to drive around it. If too much throttle is applied it will smother turbo and never spool correctly. Mine acts just like it did when it was bone stock, with 250 more horsepower. It’s just incredible how much of a difference the correct injector and turbo combination can make with these trucks.
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