Huskiemuskie

Hi, Do you know what the voltages are at the connector for the cam & crank sensors suppose to be? thx

I have a cam & crank sensor on order... should be here at the end of this week... I am going to install the crank sensor first and see if the start up IDLE LOPE goes away... if not then I will install the cam sensor and see if it goes away. In the mean time... my plan is to drop the starter and remove the current CRANK SENSOR... inspect it for damage and then boroscope into the hole to have a look around... (tone ring/wheel?) DO YOU know what I should be seeing? Is the TONE RING/Wheel right there in view? Is the tone ring/wheel what the Crank Sensor is censing / picking up in order to do its job? - - - Updated - - - I pulled crank sensor out tonight... took me about 15 mins. I just unbolted the starter and moved it forward enough that I could get the senor out... INSPECTED: NO DAMAGE. Going to boroscope tomorrow night to look for missing hardware, looseness and missing teeth on the Tone Ring.

When I did my valve lash adjustment I did not have a barring tool so I used the alternate method to turn the engine backwards using a ratchet and socket on the alternator... Here is my question/comment... I turned engine till I got TDC (everything was nice and smooth and quiet) did the valve adjustments then started turning engine to get to BDC... while I was turning everything was smooth and quiet and all of a sudden I start to hear a clicking noise every time I would turn over the engine... the sound persisted for about 5 or 6 turns on the rachet and then stopped... I never heard it again after that... It noise/clicking sounded like it was coming from the aft bottom of the eng block oil pan/starter area... Ever since then I have had a lumpy idle at startup issues... :banghead: I wonder if I damaged something internal... 99 Ram 2500 4x4, Auto, QCab longbed: Edge CTS juice/attitude, afe Stage II cold air, Raptor 150, Industrial Injection 85's, 5" MBRP turbo Back...

So your saying they are finding its pulling in air at the tank connection and then air is getting into the fuel system...? What are they doing to test or fix that theory? thx Mike

I put new Industrial Injection 85hp's... it had stock... - - - Updated - - - Brand new Industrial Injection 85's... Not sure if they pop or flow tested them as part of there quality assurance before they ship them... How do I troubleshoot the fuel return rate? I think the VP44 is ok... I did not have this idle behavior with the stock injectors and I have not gottin any diagnostics codes... - - - Updated - - - HA HA it is not really that big... I used my GoPro camera it has a wide angle lens...

Ok thought I had resolved my Startup Idle issue... If you watch the video the second startup is what i am talking about... the first start it barley did it the last start was normal... This behavior can happen at anytime... cold engine starts, hot engine starts... sometimes have to crank for a for or five seconds and it will startup then do it... other times like in the video link below it starts easy and does it... the weird thing is... it does not do it all the time... The truck did not do this at all before the new injectors and lift pump... other then that I think it runs great... The link below is the idle issue... second start up... a little on the first...:banghead: https://vimeo.com/49471434 The link below is how the truck performs in spite of the idle issues https://vimeo.com/49302466 YOUR thoughts and comments welcome! thx 99 Ram 2500 4x4, Auto, QCab longbed: Edge CTS juice/attitude, afe Stage II cold air, Raptor 150, Industrial Injection 85's, 5" MBRP turbo Back...

Here is what it is doing: 1) Takes 1 to 1.5 secs to start... prior to injectrs/V adj... as soon as it turned over it would start.. 2) Rpm is around 740-750 with ever so slight bump to it... like its out of time or missing... it was very smooth prior to the install and had 780-800rpm. 3) I put it in reverse and it stalled (twice) when a bumped the throttle never done that before. 4) Noticeably more smoke (puff) at start up... and when i bump the throttle just sitting there it will puff smoke. Did not really do that before... 5) I was very careful installing injectors and crossover tubes they came with protective covers and i was very cautious when i put them in... injectors and tubes all snapped in and went together like they are suppose to... 6) When I was adjusting the valve clearance I used the alternator pulley to turn the engine over... I had the injectors out. The eng would not turn in direction it turns when running... the belt would just slip on pulley... So I was able to turn it in the other direction. Could I have hurt something by doing that? I did hear some clicking sounds coming from the lower engine back by the tranny it sounded to me... I need some expertise on this one! - - - Updated - - - After wise counseling from this site and others I did some trouble shooting... APPS voltage reading and fuel system bleeding, CORRECT torque on High pressure fuel lines at the head and lift pump pressure adjustment. Results: 1) hard start has gone away for now... 2) rpm more consistent and steady @ 750rpm... 3) no more stall in reverse now... 4) normal smoke puff at start up... 5) rechecked valve lash on all of them and they are within limits... The video is after all of your recommendations... turn sound up at the start of the vid (then down as the truck accels... air over cam get noisy) and when I am sitting there and later in the vid when i start it up you can here the idle pretty good... thanks for all your help! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05bnRloNC7M