Utah Dually

Finally got all my gauges installed. What is the acceptable range for the Pyro? It is an ISSPRO? I will be towing this weekend and just wanted to get an idea of what to expect.

I read in one of the reviews that it didn’t read a 350 Ford. Checking around the web it appears that one ton trucks are considered commercial hence not included in many scanners.Does the Scan Gauge II read P codes?

Has anyone used this tool....? They have it on sale for 99.99 and it has a bunch of good reviews.

I think the main differance in the 100 & 150 is that you don't need a by pass with the 100. That was one of the factors that influnced me... less pluming.. and I have no plans to turn this thing up.. I want to get 300K out of it

Since I have a stock truck Eric at Vulcan has convinced me I won’t have any issues with the Raptor 100. I purchased a real filter to go in front of it, and bought the fittings to easily plum in the stock Carter pump in case of an emergency. Just the pump, big line kit, extra fittings for the Carter, BHAF W/cover, extra real filter, and 3 gauges cost 850.00.This stuff should show up next week so if it is not freezing outside I will let you know it goes…

I called Fuelab… These pumps are north of $700.00.. Plus the $150.00 install kit….

Which is better, the Assassin or the Glacier mechanical pump? My next question is if the electric pumps run for a moment to put pressure to the VP44, then dose the mechanical pump promote long starts?

I am getting scared to purchase a Raptor now. I don’t understand why a solution like the Walbro, or the new Holly black pumps are not more popular in the diesel circles. The Holly is guaranteed for 3000 hours with gas or diesel. I know no one makes a kit for them to extend the stock wiring harness so you get a momentary on like the stock pump, but I don’t think that would be that difficult. Am I missing something regarding that?It seems like everyone runs a filter in front of the pump anyway, so the only extra item would be a pressure regulator for the Holly. The Walbro is not the quality of the Holly, but should work, and seems to according to some people….

If you do a search on the Walbro 392 you find a lots of pros and cons on this pump. There is one thread on Diesel Bombers about how long did the pump last… The answers ranged anywhere from one day to a couple of years. Sounds like the upside is that this is a lower cost alternative to AirDog and Raptor pumps. They are cheap enough you could buy two and easly change them out. The down side this there is no kit yet by an supplier. My question is how do you hook up the momentary running of the pump when you engage the starter? Or do you have to hard wire this pump to an on/off switch? You would have to buy a fuel regulator by pass which is no big deal. Put a 80 dollar real filter in front of it, use the stock filter behind it and you might have a low cost alternative if the reliability is there.

I did search the web for Raptor Problems and found that most of them were at the end of 2011 and the start of 2012 thru about May. There have been no current posts about issues on Raptors since then. One person mentioned that the older silver pumps were the ones with the issue. The newer black ones don’t seem to be problematic. I am not sure that is totally correct, but it is what I could find...

Thanks for all the replies. They have been very helpful. I think I am going with the Raptor 100 since it has a lifetime warranty. I think mounting it on the frame, close to the tank is a great idea. A big line kit from tank to VP44 while keeping the stock filter. I am also going to plum the Raptor so I can keep my stock pump as a spare so I could hook it up where the Raptor is mounted in case it fails out on the road. Adding a real filter before the pump makes a lot of sense.A set of ISSPRO mechanical gauges, and a 4” exhaust….and a BHAF, then, I am done… These diesel truck mods are not cheap.. But the old girl sure pulls my race car trailer nicely… Way better than the old 509 crew cab…

Brian - They are both listed at a 100 GPM pumps... I don't have a fuel gauge now, but I am going to get one with a boost gauge and a EGT.. I know Vulcan advertises on here and I have talked to Eric which seems like a very knowledgeable guy. I am assuming they are a good supplier..

I have decided that all I need for my almost stock truck (injector upgrade before I got it) is a replacement aftermarket lift pump like a FASS or Raptor. I read some good and some bad about both.. Any opinions about which one would be the best way to go?I have a motor mounted pump on my 2001 and I am told I wouldn't need a draw straw. Would everyone agree with that?I also plan to put a big line kit all the way from the tank to the VP44 and a pre-filter before the pump.Thanks in advance for any opinions or advice.

Thank you everyone. This is the best diesel site on the web....

This might be a dumb question, but when I turn the key on the "Wait To Start" light comes on. Just what is the system doing? What am I waiting on to happen?Since this is my first diesel every once in a while I jump in the truck, put the key in and start it like a gas motor. Am I hurting anything because I am old and forgetful?

I am pretty sure you can buy the Trax-II fuel operating system from Transfer Flow. That is what was on my truck when I bought it and it works great. If I fill up the main tank, then the 98 Gal Aux tank it won’t start to transfer any fuel back to the main tank until I get to about 22 gal, then it will take it back to about 30 gal. It tells you how much you have in each tank. When the aux tank gets down to 35 gal it will balance the amount of fuel you have in both tanks, and tell you how much total fuel you have on board. The only thing weird about it is the stock fuel gauge now measures how much total fuel you have on board. So when I am down to 65 Gal total in both tanks it registers ½ tank.

I am assuming on the frame. I have never mounted one, so I will probably follow directions.

Thanks for everyone’s help. With the guidance of the forum members and a few distributors I have spoken with I am going to do the following. I am going to go with the Airdog 100 – Don’t have to mess with taking out the fuel tank pick up since my lift pump is on the block, plum it to the stock filter and replace all the fittings with larger fittings and a big line from the stock filter to the VP44. I don’t plan to hop my truck up, so I think I will be good with that setup. I am also going to put the ISSOPro gauge pod with EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, and perhaps a 4” exhaust. I think I am going to purchase the pump and gauges & big line kit from Vulcan.

Well going to work this morning was the first time I have been able to tow with the new (to me) truck. WOW, what a difference. I got up early and took the long way to work that had the most hills just for fun. The only issue I had was checking to see if the trailer was still there. What a major difference from towing with a gas motor…. I can’t believe I have been so hard headed about switching to a diesel..

Being new at this I have a related question. When I start mine it takes a second for the oil pressure gauge to move. Is that normal? I am use to gas motors moving asap.

Flagmanruss - Thanks... One video I watched regarding retro fitting a straw recommended drilling three holes in the side of the basket to let fuel in about an inch and a half up from the bottom of the basket. Seemed like a good idea on the surface.

So I am not sure buying this truck has been a good thing because I can’t stop reading about these things. Just kidding, but I am compulsive about wanting to understand and know the right way to do things. Which leads me to the following...It seems like a lot of people think by upping the fuel pressure to the pump it will have a greater cooling effect on the pump. It sounded reasonable until I found out that the by-pass is before the pump. The pump is only going to flow the amount of fuel the engine is using, so I can’t see increased pressure having any significant extra cooling effect. With the by-pass before the pump you lose most of that effect. If the by-pass was on the back side of the pump and extra fuel was flowing thru the pump I can see that working. But with the by-pass before the pump, you will lose most of that effect, but perhaps a small increase is all that is needed.I am a drag racer and use to working with mechanical fuel injection with both electrical and mechanical pumps. The big advantage the mechanical pump has is increased flow with an increase in RPM’s for race car injections. But, and electrical pump can be made to work just fine. It always boils down to “Does it work or is it the Hot Rod Bullet Proof setup”. What is different about this diesel set up is you are increasing the pressure before the pump – ok, but the pump is what is building pressure to the injectors, right? I am assuming that the front end increase in pressure has a positive effect on how the pump builds pressure to the injectors (non withstanding the positive influence of an adequate supply at all times). If the reports of increased mileage are true, then the presumed injector side pressure increase must be developing better atomization like happens with race car injection. However I haven't seen anyone testing the input pressure vs. the output pressure.The bottom line appears to be a better lift pump is a good thing. But there are a million ways to skin that cat. Putting a replacement pump on the side of the block does not sound like a good idea to me. I would presume the heat and vibration is one of the issues with the original pump, so putting a better built pump in the same environment will increase life, but failure will still be premature. It seems that placing a Raptor or similar stock replacement pump on the frame would help elemate the heat/vibration issue and perhaps prolong the pumps life. But if failure is always eminent, in service replacement has to be consideration. Then there is the fuel pick up issue. I am having trouble with reading about replacing the draw straw then running out of fuel at ¼ tank. In the pictures I have seen it appears to be at the same location as the stock pick up or the in tank lift pump, so why doesn’t the pump pick it up? This has me stumped. Then it is recommended to remove the sock filter, increasing the debris going thru your brand new replacement pump.I talked to DTT yesterday, but got cut off before I could ask them about how this pump picks up fuel on start up. Then I got busy at work and couldn’t call them back. I do like the idea of a mechanical pump but one issue seems to be the by-pass valve. They use the same type by-pass as we use in racing applications. We call them pop off valves. There seems to be an issue with these and diesel fuel with any type of small debris and possiable long term corrosion. Nothing is perfect. So for now it seems the hot rod set up for a guy with a stock setup and nothing beyond injectors would be a Raptor/Fass type pump on the frame rail, with a filter between the tank and pump, ½ inch line from the tank to the filter/ pump – ½ line to the stock filter to retain the fuel heating – then a big line kit from the filter to the pump, with quick connect fittings on the pump so it can be serviced quickly on the side of the road – of course an extra pump in the truck. Am I starting to get a grip on it? If not, please help me understand where I am going wrong….

Thanks guys... What determins if you have to modify the gas tank sending unit? Pressure or the amount of fuel you are pulling? Since I am a drag racer and bought this truck to pull my car, I like the mechanical pump idea.. Like a mechanical fuel pump for injectors. Where is the best place to buy gauges and a pod? Thanks again.... - - - Updated - - - Flagmanruss - Got it... we must have been posting at the same time....

I just purchased my first diesel truck from Nampa Idaho. It is a 2001 Quad Cab Dually 5 speed with only 65K on the clock. Got it from the original owner. The only mods he did to the truck was to put a 98 gallon aux tank and some Dr. Performance injectors and a jake brake. I have been reading about lift pumps and I am a bit confused. My friend who know a little about diesels showed me the lift pump on the dirvers side of the block. But I keep reading about a pump in the gas tank. I want to protect my VP44 and make it last as long as I can by upgrading the lift pump. The Blue Chip bolt on looks like a good option, but do I have to tear into the gas tank sender and cut up a bunch of stuff also? (remember I am as green as they come regarding diesels) I thought I would never give up my 79 Chev Dually as a tow truck, but you just can't beat these things... So what is the best way to go for better protection? The only other mods I plan to do is a boost - fuel pressure - egt gauge set.... Thanks for the help in advance....