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I know, old topic. It's just that no one seems to be in the same situation I am. I just finished replacing front rotors, calipers, and pads (Powerstop Z36 kit) and discovered the passenger side hub was shot, spun like a fidget spinner. Also replaced the driver side axle shaft assembly since the threads got screwed up taking the nut off. Anyway, I also threw a new ABS sensor on the driver side hub from a brand new bearing my friend messed up and gave to me, since I had access to it. I get everything back together, bleed the brakes, and as soon as I cross the 20-25 mph mark, the ABS/Brake Christmas tree lights up. Does not come on with brake pedal action, comes on when I hit that speed range and then doesn't go off until I turn the truck off. Pedal feels mushy compared to before, but I think that's an unrelated bleeding issue. Of course 2 minutes into the bed-in procedure and Bambi wants to say hi, knocked my front license plate off but that was it (lights came on before running over deer btw). Not sure what would be causing this, I read the other threads and I doubt that it's a tone ring issue since one hub is new (Timken) and the other was just fine beforehand. Front ABS doesn't do much of anything (Don't feel anything in the pedal either), but it didn't do much before the job either. I forgot to disconnect the batteries when changing the sensors, but disconnecting them later did not change anything. Also, the parking brake light works as designed before I hit 20-25 mph and it stays on, so I doubt it's anything with that system specifically. 4wd light does not come on unless I put it on 4wd, so nothing unusual there. The only area I touched was the front hub/brake assembly, so that must be where some change is causing an error, just not sure what. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

My original plan was to change the front brake pads. I figured it would be a good idea to flush the brake fluid before removing the calipers, taking them apart and cleaning them and reinstalling them. I started in the back and right out of the gates I hit a road block. The bleeder valve on the rear cylinder was rusted tight and it sheared off when I tried force it. Guess what? The other side was the same way. I replaced them both and in the process I sprung a leak in the middle of a brake line. I replaced the brake line and FINALLY got moving with things. I flushed the system fairly well and found a lot of sludge inside both calipers. They did clean up nice and there was no noticeable scars or damage to anything. The seal kit that I bought was the wrong kit. My calipers don't have the two separate pistons, it is just one large piston. It was late and I wasn't about to make a fourth parts run. The seals did look good and I cleaned them up the best I could. I would have much preferred to replace them. I put everything together and it drove 100% better. The shimmy was gone and I was home free. A couple of days ago the shimmy started to come back, slowly, as I applied brakes. Today, after I flushed the power steering I took it for a spin around the block and the shimmy was getting me worried and pissed off. I can feel the steering wheel shake and there is a pulsing feel--only when I am pushing on the brakes. I parked in my drive way and I could smell brake. I stuck my head in the wheel well and the driver’s side was hot, the passenger’s side smelled/felt fine. I would bet the farm that the caliper is sticking because after I put it back together last week the braking was smooth. There isn't too much to a caliper and I don't want to buy a new one, however, could this be caused due to bad seals? It is easy enough to remove and take apart but would I be better off just replacing the entire caliper? Oh yeah, exhaust. As I was under my truck farting around with brake lines last week I noticed that my tail pipe, right where it comes out of the muffler had completely rusted through and that last section is dangling on the hangers. I was hoping that there would be enough metal to clamp or weld to rejoin the two sections, but there isn't. I am sure I could replace the muffler and piece in a coupler for a fix, or would it be better and more cost effective to just install a new exhaust from the turbo to the back bumper. Any product I should consider?

ABS Failure - Diagnostics Tips 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System 2 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (RWAL - Rear Wheel Anti-Lock) I find its really common to hear people complain about ABS and BRAKE lights being lit. There is a few simple things you can do to diagnose your problem. [*] Check your ABS fuses under the hood fuse #11 and check the #3 fuse inside the cab (driver side door jamb). Replace any that are blown. [*]Step on you brake pedal and see if the tail lights light up and turn off when released. If not repair the brake light switch. [*]Shift the transfer case into 4WD and check if the 4WD light comes on. (4WD equipped vehicles). If not repair the 4WD switch. [*]Does the speedometer work? If so the rear speed sensor in the differential is functional. So now that you done that much that means that it one of the front speed sensors that has either become disconnected or the sensor has failed. If the lights remain the only way I know to diagnose this correctly is at a Dodge dealer. They have the tools to hook up to the ABS computer and pull the error codes and tell you what has failed. Once you've repaired the problem you must drive the vehicle to reset the ABS and BRAKE lights. Also take the second and check the error codes on the ECM/PCM and reset any error codes. Description - CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) The Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB) is a microprocessor which handles testing, monitoring and controllingthe ABS brake system operation (Fig. 10). The CAB functions are: [*] Perform self-test diagnostics. [*]Monitor the RWAL brake system for proper operation. [*]Control the RWAL valve solenoids. NOTE: If the CAB needs to be replaced, the rear axle type and tire revolutions per mile must be programed into the new CAB. For axle type refer to Group 3 Differential and Driveline. For tire revolutions per mile,(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/TIRES - SPECIFICATIONS) . To program the CAB refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual. Operation - System Self-Test When the ignition switch is turned-on the microprocessor RAM and ROM are tested. If an error occurs during the test, a DTC will be set into the RAM memory. However it is possible the DTC will not be stored in memory if the error has occurred in the RAM module were the DTC’s are stored. Also it is possible a DTC may not be stored if the error has occurred in the ROM which signals the RAM to store the DTC. CAB Inputs The CAB continuously monitors the speed of the differential ring gear by monitoring signals generated by the rear wheel speed sensor. The CAB determines a wheel locking tendency when it recognizes the ring gear is decelerating too rapidly. The CAB monitors the following inputs to determine when a wheel locking tendency may exists: [*] Rear Wheel Speed Sensor [*]Brake Lamp Switch [*]Brake Warning Lamp Switch [*]Reset Switch [*]4WD Switch (If equipped) CAB Outputs The CAB controls the following outputs for antilock braking and brake warning information: [*] RWAL Valve [*]ABS Warning Lamp [*]Brake Warning Lamp P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel antilock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Preempted sorry if this is in the wrong place but my truck has stumped me a little bit of history they came on about three days ago and it has no codes and it just randomly on my way home the abs and park brake light came on and the spedo bounced from actual road speed down ten to twenty mph then back up then down so on and so forth the problem isnt as noticable under thirty and its off until the truck gets on the road I have reset the computer by removing the negative cables then replaced them an hour later no luck so I removed them again and replaced the rear wheel speed sensor hooked up the cables and still no luck.the reason I put this hear is because for our trucks i can by a sensor that goes into the transmission from the parts store meaning ther is two sensor but my chrysler corporation repair manual says I only have one thought and ideas? if ther is no sensor in the tranny then its down to faulty new sensor, wiring or abs computer (most likey) but pcm could still be at fault just a FYI each time the batterys were disconected and reconected I checked for codes a total of three times and have received nothing