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Yesterday we took the old & abused Tahoe Transport Toy Hauler to an independent shop to have repairs done and a new rubber roof put on. There will be more on this but what's on my mind right now is how hard this trailer is to uncouple the WD hitch after use. I hate WD hitches but it is more than needed to keep the truck steering wheels in contact with the road to steer... kind of necessary... more so than lima beans! But I digress! I don't recall a brand on the ball socket... it's OEM, welded to the trailer tongue of course. I don't know if I've got a picture anywhere... I'll look. After the WD Torsion bars are released & removed, the safety hitch pin is removed, there's a lift handle on the top that must be lifted from the rear & drawn rearward & held while the tongue is lifted (came with a power jack installed). There is some type of part which completes the circle sphere around the hitch ball... only loosely attached to the release lever on top. We are having trouble getting the release lever to fully release... and the underneath part to move so we can disconnect. We have found a mini-bungee (1/4" D cord) which is just the right length to go around the release lever & catch on the jack base. It will only fit if the lever is fully released. BUT, I think now, that it's pulling partially in the wrong direction... back & down instead of back & up. Even then, (yesterday) we could not get the underneath latch to let go. (We are resorting to devises because there's not enough room for too many hands in there & the parts are hard to keep holding.) My thought of the morning is that I need to pull this release lever up & back... in the direction of the jack. I could clamp a ring to the jack body & bungee to that release handle. My good wife thinks we need to grease the ball more. So do I, but not what she had in mind! I sure could use a cut away drawing... SORRY for the long rant. Cropped from another pict... the only one I have & the trailer is locked in the contractor's shop.

Since the VNT plan went TU I am going another route. It’s a little more money, but hey that happens :-) I got a killer deal on a set of DDP 50's, one that I couldn't refuse. Nozzles were always part of the plan, but never in the immediate budget, but like I said I couldn't refuse these. I have wanted a different turbo for a while, as the VNT indicated. My main goal for a new turbo was to reduce the insane back-pressure created by the stock turbine housing and wheel. I don't need much more out of the compressor side, just more efficient. I am trying to decide between a Garrett Stage 2 or a modified Stage 3. The two turbos both have the same turbine and turbine housing; just the compressor wheels are different. One is a 60/80 the other is a 64/88. Both are water-cooled ball bearing units and should spool very fast and provide 35-40 psi of boost with low drive pressure. To ease my mind when the boost goes near 40 I am also going to be installing a set of ARP 425's. Most say I don't need them at my boost levels, but I don't want to find out the $$ way I need them. I will also be installing a set of manifold and turbo blankets. They will improve spool even more, and keep underhood temps down. Lastly, if there is any funding remaining, I will be getting an Edge Insight to monitor my OBDII readings, post-turbo EGT's, and oil pressure. The goal is to be done with wrenching by the 1st week of April, I have a busy schedule from now until the middle of March, so it will mostly be parts gathering for the next month and a half then wrenching.