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Thank you for your time. Im a new member with which may be a stupid question. I own a 2001 2500 auto. A few months ago i shut my truck off and it never restarted. I had no fuel to the fuel filter housing. I had my lift pump replace with an intank unit, first mistake, second i had someone that in my opinion now wasnt able to do the the job. After that didnt work a new injection pump installed, no luck. A computer diagnostic ran, no luck. I have no codes but truck will turn over but still wont run. After towing the truck home, i discovered a short in the power door locks fuse which controls the ctm. My truck has the anti theft feature but didnt have any symptoms before the pump swaps. Would the ctm lock up be the problem or am i over thinking this? Thanks for any thoughts on this i appreciate it!

Cliff notes for Raptor 100 and Autometer fuel pressure sending unit and snubber install, just in case I screwed something up along the way I’ll thoroughly explain, main questions will be in bold font to make easier to read (I hope): FP Sender - Removed lines going in and out of filter housing (½” ID 35psi fuel/emissions hose from Goodyear, worm gear hose clamp attaches over male fittings). Removed old fp sender which was smutted into filter drain valve and fitting. Reinstalled fitting with additional sealing washer (per Autometer) to index port at an angle away from drain tube, installed new sender and snubber. Bolted filter back into place and reattached hose from filter to VP. Removed fuel filter from canister, wiped out most debris. Began filling with diesel fuel, slowly pouring down the sides to wash any debris I missed to the bottom. Filled housing about an inch, covered with clean rag and let sit for 20 minutes to allow any floating debris to settle at bottom. Slowly filled canister ¾ of the way and inserted filter (3 weeks old). Pump - Removed OE line from tank to pump and ½” line from pump to filter housing. Installed new ½” blue lines from Raptor kit, bolted pump to frame, installed new wiring, connected and secured hoses. - Checked for power to the pump - the black ground wire is solid, the positive yellow receives a brief flash of power when key is turned to the "on" position. Double checked fuel line connections. Set flow setting on Raptor to fully open hoping this would get the lines bled faster. Stupid move - I was going to bump starter to bleed… forgot to disconnect a line to allow air a way to escape, held key in “start” position too long, truck turned over and ran for a few seconds then died. I’m going to go out on a limb here and guess air in the lines killed it Bleed air from lines - removed line going into filter (those “quick connect” lines are fabulous!), wrapped a blue shop towel around the opening so I’d know when fuel came out (working solo here), bumped starter, allowed key return to "on" position, waited thirty seconds, turned key “off” and removed from ignition. Repeated more than 20 times (do not remember the # exact). No fuel present. Cracked the outlet line at pump, fuel was present at that point. I tried the bumping-bleeding business five more times and stopped afraid to cause damage (?) - How many times can I bump the starter? How much fuel does it pump for the 25 second interval? Could it be taking so long because of the length of the lines from the RP kit, they look to be long enough for an extended or mega cab (they are secured in a wide loop away from possible road debris)?

VP44 gave me fits, and took almost a full 2 hours of cranking, charging, cranking, charging, cranking, charging, tightening lines, and finally, finally after all that priming drama, it started up. Timing is dead-nuts on, starts with a twist of the key, no codes, nothing. Next up: get Wal Mart to replace the dying twin of the battery I made them replace last month; pull the bed to install Mr. FASS150, and procure a Vulcan big line kit. www.ronman.org/misc/truck1.mov www.ronman.org/misc/truck2.mov