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Prowelder

Adjusting Timing

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Hey guys,I'm going to help a friend on his '98 12v to adjust the timing. I haven't messed with 12v Cummins too much and never adjusted the timing. I was wondering is there is a guide to it anywhere and pictures would be great too???:ahhh:Also what, if any, tools are required?? Any special tools that are Cummins tools or anything?? I've got a dial indicator so that isn't a problem but wasn't sure what else is needed???:shrug:Thanks,Winslow

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You just had to hit the thing I haven't got the tools to try out myself :lol: Here is a guide to it. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm Nevertheless, I did watch the guy time mine. You have to have a special socket to take the delivery valve thing off (the nut with a million points on it). Helps to have the flywheel engine barring tool also, takes longer per revolution but that makes it more precise. I have taken the P7100 off and put it back on, advancing it doesn't look to be much different, just some dial indicator work. Remember to always hold the engine when you are tightening any of those gear nuts. Let me know if you run into something :thumbup2:

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Hey,Thanks man! Looks like we need a few tools first to do it. I wonder if you person could just turn the engine with the alternator nut or if the barring tool would be much easier??:shrug:Look like we need the socket, the gauge holder, and maybe the barring tool. Not too bad just too bad we are both broke!!!!:lmao2:Later,Winslow

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Well you gotta hit TDC dead on and the barring tool being like 2" diameter turning the huge flywheel means a huge ratio difference. It takes forever to do 1 revolution, but seems more accurate. Alternator works too. Just go slow and make sure its all perfect before you start it.

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Well you gotta hit TDC dead on and the barring tool being like 2" diameter turning the huge flywheel means a huge ratio difference. It takes forever to do 1 revolution, but seems more accurate. Alternator works too. Just go slow and make sure its all perfect before you start it.

Hey, That's true, it would be better overall I think. Just extra cost!!:mad::lol: Later, Winslow

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You don't really need all those fancy tools, but they sure help! I did mine by my self and used a socket on the harmonic damper. I didn't have a delivery valve socket either so I used a pair of vise grips (yes, I know it is not the recommended way). Just make sure that you use contact cleaner (not brake clean) to clean the shaft and gear (contact cleaner leaves no residue). Also torque the nut to 160 pounds too. If you just go to stock torque it will slip again.

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