Hello, so I've just been going threw my truck. 

Had some personal issues come up, and haven't been dumping $ into it for like over a year. 

Doings mods + fixing the stuffs/ stocking up -  (switches,ecm, tipm, wiring harnesses, fuel rails, mirrors... just want to get a boat load or atleast a couple ecms + tipms for spares, just cuz if it all dissappear ill be screwed.... ) 

 

Firepunk comp 2
30% ddps
10mm cp3
63/67 tater - soonish to a S464
Head bolts, fleece lift pump, reman stock long block
Ats t3 manifold W/EGT 
Mishimoto intercooler & transmission cooler,
XDP Xtra cool radiator
Mishimoto boots 

Efi live by firepunk

[ ^just got a retune for 10mm^]

 

Getting ready to go threw the steering & suspension.

Billstieen 5100's - trying movitech coils & ball joints 

I've heard the 6 bolt box is wayyy better but just the red head 4 bolt box. Steering shaft,

And going to a DOR front end upgrade kit. 

Dual steering stabilizer.

+ new tires & realignment during time of install.. for now, was considering a

4 link - track bars - DD able roll cage. 

For Track use / tie the back end down. 

But it's a tow truck, not lifted.. so I'm kinda not wanting to take it offroad and like break everything xD 

 

Was getting like 24 mpg on the overhead on the highway with same setup with just a stock cp3, and efi live for that setup..

 

Other soon to get mods

 

One piece drive shaft 
4.5k springs

turbonator s400 housing + s464 turbo

W/Exaughst brake & air compression 
Cam + push rods + tappets 

 

 

Hate the stock Cam, my oil life is terrible. Getting a different Cam want better oil life, was getting 3200-3400 miles in the stock 2nd gen before the oil turned pitch black. 

Get like less than 1 tank of fuel before it turns black... 

 

Broke my firepunk comp 2 ( full billet, triple disc ) got a rebuild, went to next-gen diesel for there billet triple disc... DPC's just snapped it..

DPC is dampless, NGD is dampened and still a full race converter. Didn't do a single burn out, no aggressive abuse on the trans, got like 2 years maybe 30k miles on it... broke just on cruise control plan to send mine out to get there in-house rebuild with there own valve body + other redesigns. Looks much more promising / dependable. And get a other full billet trans but threw them this time.

HIGHLY Recommend next-generation diesel over the firepunk transmissions

 

Also want to build a Higher HP engine

Thinking of getting another 06 - 07 5.9 truck for a race build... but I'm thinking 6.7 w/HO pistons either 6.4 or 6.7

 

5.9 short block- industrial
Ported head + thread freeze plugs + 4.5k springs 
 Wagler rods + 1950 or machine my own rods :P
Fluid damper $857
12mm girdle $1306
ARP EVERYTHING 
More aggressive Cam

 

( Still going threw it plan to stock up on 3rd gen parts, but I'm considering also getting a 4th or 5th gen... probably both :P )

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well that's a lot of work ahead. What's better about a one piece drive shaft?

 

The total run out is much closer to 0. And less harmonics, no bearing on it. Ability to last last longer, can do burnouts almost worry free also. Larger u-joints.. 

And in my my case it took like 8 lead weights to get it to be acceptable somewhat in the runout. Vs a piece that should be like.001 or something in total runout 

Besides that the stock units will wollow out the back of a transmission from running out of round for 2 long a period of time... 

I was spun balanced back at about 350k miles. Changing a u-joint went bad damage the rear u-joint of the rear shaft. When it was rebuilt new end welded in, the new carrier bearing and 3 u-joints with a spin balance.

Not sure if I'm missing something but i want a stouter setup just so I don't have to worry minus the fat output shaft and transfer case mod on the driveline / axel side. 

So I went to dodge and it's fairly expensive to get key fobs there like $200 each + programing. I think it may have went up again on the key side + programing. 

 

that said I'm going to keep getting computers and I don't wish to keep having to reprogram them. 

 

So I was curious if any of you have a preferred scan tool to do so or some kind of device like this one from Walmart. It's like $30...

 

No offense but it would be awesome to just grab one every time I need to swap ECM'S. 

( @ dodge one of there techs had a application on his phone to do it. Any ideas there??) 

 

Thank you 

NSN

 

Call a mobile locksmith. They can do all kinds of stuff with reprogramming and key fobs and usually for less money.

Thanks for your info... guess I'll keep looking. 

 

 

so i definitly want compounds but i'd hate to kill my MPG, so im gunna try a s464 or 467 over like a gt55 or a s500 but leaning more towards a garret because they spool better. and i read from a s500 seller that the SXE is better for high RPM but the SX has a broader RPM range and the Smaller like 1.15 housing and down are easier to snap the hot side by just lifting your foot off the throttle. so ill see whats up with one of the garrets in the 88mm cold side or something around there... a s500 is like $3,000 but the garret is like 5,000

also want to build a triple setup so im gunna need another truck.. and my 2nd gen ill probably leave back home for my folks to have a spare diesel tow rig :P 

thinking similar to PDD's, 3 gt55's / just keep looking. ithink they did 2700hp + with it so i need another truck plan to do that on a 06-07 truck. would be cool for drag racing, gave up on do everything ideas i think.... just been driving at a almost reliable yet still somewhat sketchy 500hp.... before i open my mouth and made billet threaded freeze plugs a thing, there was nothing going on except engine failures all the time, so im scared to be left on the road with just that being my downfall so its time. also have plans to open it again and ask fleece and titan to make some new products : P  so idk include 200%'s DDP for the 467 / gt55 and i baught a 10mm cp3 and just got a retune for 30%'s without flashing it but after i tie up some loose ends im thinking just that next. or save towards it. 

 

 but another time i opened my mouth the 14mm multiplyer cp3 came out and today 4/22/24 there lauching a new version of it on exergys website so i'll probably buy one of those

took'em all this time to come out with one that fails short of the old one on there graph but does slightly better @ higer RPM :P 

 

so who thinks what? i have 0 idea about the NOS system do i need like 5 jets? and or am i supposed to hook them upto a controller that sparys at certain RPM's or are the 5 kits of nitrous each a specific jet size? not to familiar with the vocabulary. or are they just sparying down low just 1 or 2 jets to help on spool up and like 3 jets to during WOT use? i've seen it in videos but i just don't remember whats up? i think i saw some of that in firepunks content or somewhere else like PDD and others but its been soo long i just don't remember... 

 

Primary use of vechical would be for a 3k HP + dyno run and if it survives or if i hit 3k then race track... 

so let me know, and yes i know firepunk went 1st to 3 seconds on the strip with only 150% overs and like 1300hp 

 

kinda like this website more, and don't miss the cummins forum but theres alot of good info there... 

and if you have 2 cp3s like 10mm can you make 1600hp in a dual setup or is it harder to get a reliable number like ? just for a dual 10mm setup on the 06 or should i just put on a 14mm?  

also heard the 14mm's have a bucking issue while towing so i just didn't want to put one on a tow truck. but will use 2 for the 3k

 

(^ heard of people making 1,000 hp with dual stock cp3's but they don't fuel or start to defuel past 2800 or 3000 rpms so i was curious^)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Side note I've been starting my truck lately not even cold out but the grid heater needs to cycle. 

Gauges read 12v, so could it be weak batteries/ going bad / need load tested? 

Or is the fleece sureflow loosing prime after the wait to start shuts off? I don't think I had this issue even unplugged in the winter time..

So I'm not sure if it's getting weak or batteries.. but the ecm is also over charging 

 

And im having a spare ecm fixed + vin programmed. And auto computer specialist here said it would be a great idea to also send in my spare wiring harness for reman... 

 

So I'm kinda confused maybe it's just been over charging? Fresh reman long block + I sent the 30%'s back to be inspected and tested and they tested fine. No white smoke at idle but it does seem ruff to start and I get just a little bit of black smoke @ start up. So could it also be that I need to install the 10mm efi retune from firepunk to get it to start properly? Heard it may just add a bit of smoke but should run fine till retune...

 

Thank you!!!

 

P.S if I let it cycle again right after the wait to start light or the next time I turn it on it jumps right to life no stumbling for a second or 2. Also I only have that black smoke on startup if my oil is bad but I just changed it and got a Tote of CI-4 so maybe I should just change it early & run hotshot secret threw it to try and clean out the emissions junk oil... 

 

Edited April 22, 2024Apr 22 by ICU_24VNUT

So ignition cylinder is stuck in the off position.

Im going replace it. 

 

But I was curious anyi dea how I'd setup a 2 or 3 switches to get rid of the key with fob all together to start it. And maybe just use it to lock / unlock wirelessly. Or just get a hard key for the doors.

 

I just want switches to turn on the accessory/ lift pump / glow plugs.. etc and then another to use the starter.

 

So when those go out I can just replace the the switch or fuse and go on about my way much easier. 

 

Or am I better off with a specific truck like a

p-pump truck to do these things? 

 

Or should I just get a newer truck that dodge still supports and order parts while there still available? 

 

P.S kinda clueless with the new trucks and there electric stuff going on.