Can someone explain delivery valve differences?

[RecoilFreak]

I have a mildly built '97 auto 4x4 - S300 class turbo (unsure on size - inherited it), three piece exhaust manifold, unknown fuel system mods, tons of tranny mods (Suncoast full manual valve body, Suncoast pressure regulator/overdrive solenoid, all the Suncoast billet parts, triple disk converter,etc)  , 5" exhaust, cold air intake, EGT sensor/gauge, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, etc. I bought this truck this way. I plan on doing some tuning as I am not happy with how it runs. It has better than stock power but tries to stall at cold idle when putting it in gear, only spins to ~2800rpm, and could just run better overall. I have a feeling a previous owner just started throwing parts at it without tuning or considering choice of upgrades to work with each other. I've read a lot about 191 delivery valves and how they are a good upgrade on power. I know delivery valves dictate how much fuel is sent to each cylinder, but what can I expect with each different type? How do I size delivery valves based on other mods (i.e. 191's vs 024's)? I don't know what DV's/injectors/fuel plate/AFC mods are currently in the truck. I have to replace the head gasket, as the previous owner did not stud the head before throwing mods at it, and my cooling system is pressurizing. Since most of the fuel system has to come apart anyway, I plan on ID'ing what is there and modifying things to just make it work better together. Some guidance would be nice. I've been looking for knowledge on delivery valve/injector sizing, but not finding much other than "use our parts". Thanks. 

Edited December 31, 2024 by RecoilFreak

[Great work!]

Don't know much about delivery valves. But the idle screw needs adjusted to prevent stalling when cold and 2800rpm is because you need to upgrade the governor springs and washers.