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Help with Quadzilla 3 cylinder/6 cylinder box

Ltk

By Ltk
in 2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

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Ltk

Ltk

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I have installed the new Quadzilla high idle box (3 cyl/6cyl) sold by DieselAutoPower Mike developed years ago. When I hook it up as it says (IAT sensor and Coolant Temp sensor) I get the following codes and the unit does not work. 

 

I have verified both sensors are in fact working as well as the grid heater relays are both operational. When connecting them back to factory configuration and clearing codes, those codes do not reappear and everything functions normally with no further codes being thrown. 

 

Any idea what I could be doing wrong? 

 

Truck is programmed with a Smarty S03, 3 cylinder idle is active and does work properly with outside temperatures. 

 

Thanks in advance! 

Logan Kendrick

606-794-3951

image.jpg

  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted (edited)

Live data tool and look to see if the fooled temperature happens. Coolant should be 123°F (3cyl) and IAT either 26°F or 13°F for 6 cyl and 3 cyl. Engine does not need to be running.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
39 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Live data tool and look to see if the fooled temperature happens. Coolant should be 123°F (3cyl) and IAT either 26°F or 13°F for 6 cyl and 3 cyl. Engine does not need to be running.

Thanks, I will check that in the morning and report back. I should be able to see that with the OBDlink MX+ (I hope)

Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Yes sir you can. Just key on and click the switch through the different modes and report back the values seen.

I am getting the following results for 6 cyl and 3 cyl respectively. 

IMG_7945.png

IMG_7944.png

  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted

I need both IAT and ECT sensors results. ECT is showing the 123*F on the coolant for 6 cyl but I need the IAT sensor to show what mode to start. I used to have 10 gauges on my old OBDLink module. Also had horsepower and torque calculated as gauges. 

 

  • MPG - IAT = 143*F and ECT = Normal Sensor
  • 6 CYL - IAT = 26*F and ECT = 123*F
  • 3 CYL - IAT = 13*F and ECT = Normal sensor

Basically IAT sets the mode. The ECT tells if the mode should cancel at 170*F of coolant or hold the mode.

Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
28 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I need both IAT and ECT sensors results. ECT is showing the 123*F on the coolant for 6 cyl but I need the IAT sensor to show what mode to start. I used to have 10 gauges on my old OBDLink module. Also had horsepower and torque calculated as gauges. 

 

  • MPG - IAT = 143*F and ECT = Normal Sensor
  • 6 CYL - IAT = 26*F and ECT = 123*F
  • 3 CYL - IAT = 13*F and ECT = Normal sensor

Basically IAT sets the mode. The ECT tells if the mode should cancel at 170*F of coolant or hold the mode.

 

Ahh okay, sorry about that! Took a minute but I figured it out and made it a little easier to see. The pics are as follows: 6 cyl, 3 cyl, MPG, OFF

IMG_7951.png

IMG_7952.png

IMG_7953.png

IMG_7954.png

Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

IAT circuit has failed. 

What does this mean? Is my IAT sensor bad or is this an ECM problem?

Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Connection between both IAT plugs are OPEN. Hence the value is -40°F. The ECM is going to see +5V and throw a high volt code for IAT.

So how do I fix this and get my high idle kit to work? Sorry, I’m not following.

  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted (edited)

There was a version that was built with all the wires soldered to the back of the switch and had a high failure rate. This was due to the fact the switch requires a printed circuit board to make it strong enough not to pull the contacts out of the rotary switch. There was no way to repair this version. This was all ditch and superseded with my previous version with a printed circuit board. 

 

image.png image.png

 

Fast forward... I teamed up with Quadzilla to get production rolling again.

https://quadzillapower.com/High-Idle

 

image.png

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
36 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

There was a version that was built with all the wires soldered to the back of the switch and had a high failure rate. This was due to the fact the switch requires a printed circuit board to make it strong enough not to pull the contacts out of the rotary switch. There was no way to repair this version. This was all ditch and superseded with my previous version with a printed circuit board. 

 

image.png image.png

 

Fast forward... I teamed up with Quadzilla to get production rolling again.

https://quadzillapower.com/High-Idle

 

image.png

Yes I purchased the Quadzilla version. Why is it not working? My IAT sensor and ECM should be fine or I'd be throwing a code with the Quadzilla kit uninstalled, right?

  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted

Well i guess I better find some time and install my high idle switch back in Beast. I got the first unit built and been laid up with my cancer. Now I'm getting back to attempting to be active. Still kind of weak.

Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Well i guess I better find some time and install my high idle switch back in Beast. I got the first unit built and been laid up with my cancer. Now I'm getting back to attempting to be active. Still kind of weak.

Hate to hear that, Mike! Haven’t been active on these forums in several years just now getting back to driving my 2nd gen. Do you think I’m going to need to buy a new IAT sensor or have my ECM rebuilt? 

Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Hey could you give me a shout in the morning. 208 315 1470 

Yes sir I sure will, thanks!

Ltk

Ltk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 1/3/2025 at 12:49 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Tried calling you this morning but went to voice mail.

Hey Mike, I contacted Quadzilla Monday and they are sending me out a new PCB board and switch. I will keep you updated on how that turns out. They will send me a wiring harness if that doesn't correct things.

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