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dorkweed

Considering Propane Injection

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Why, you ask???? Why not???? LOL I can write off the propane as a business expense, and right now I can buy propane for $3.00/gal. I'm not looking for power, only mileage. I thinking only 1-4psi of fumigation added into the boost tube pre-turbo. The basics of the system seem pretty straight forward. I think I can buy everything I need for under $200.00. I would rig the system so that I can "arm" the system from the cab via a switch........of course the tank valve would need to be open. That way I can decide when to use it and when not to. Any insight would be appreciated. I've already read the "Poor Mans Propane Setup" over on the CF twice. Saw your input Mike!! B) I don't want to buy a kit that increases propane volume with boost pressure. I want this to be a more "on demand" system..........Propane will not be injected until 5psi of boost is seen or something like that!!!! HELP PLEASE!!!! I'm just in the planning stage now!!!

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I would use a differential pressure switch to trigger the gas switch because the air filter can change the inlet pressure. The air cleaner monitor is a ready made access point and the intake manifold connection for a boost gage would be a good choice.Injecting in the turbo inlet would seem a good place for mixture but many have leaks so I would go for the bottom of the tube at the outlet of the charge air cooler. A welding regulator is going to be constant volume at the pressure but the ratio will change with the engine speed. While you may share the cab with a 20# cylinder to dial the regulator for the best setting, the cheap solution for not sharing the cab is probably 2 regulators staging - first on differential pressure and second on engine rpm.I would leave a pipe plug for a third regulator with a N.O. switch for a power mixture added to the other 1 or 2 working on preset controls.A piece of 3/8's steel tubing bent 90 deg with the air flow should work for a nozzle and a 3/8ths compression fitting drilled for the tubing to pass through, using a 4 foot piece with a rubber tube to the body and back to 3/8 steel tube to the gas valve.A 20# tank strapped to the seat base so that you can reach the valve and a towel to lay over it will prove that you want to run the equipment, but for the long term no hassle setup a dot tank and steel lines. The 2 trucks that I ran with propane came with hose for all lines, but as they showed wear they were replace with steel patterned after Gleaner combines - Short loop of hose for engine movement/vibration and clamped down steel for all other connections.One source of regulators for this project is welders that have a regulator that does not hold close to the exact pressure, they will often part with them for about 2x scrap price. They don't trust them for fine work and they have an excuse to buy a new one so the spare is new. I have been on both sides of those deals. If they run diesels they will be interested in the project so make a copy of the assembly and parts book that you can leave with them.I think that you will know within 40# of propane that you will have results that will prove that it will work at low volume with good results where the rest pretty much seem that power is the goal over econmy.I wish you the best of luck and serendipity.keydl

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