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Head studs and twins build !!!!!


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ok - so I'm jumping the boat and going twins. I'm tired of fighting EGT towing even with methanol - dont want to go with reasons here - pm me if you need info on that one. I am guesstimate around ~400HP right now. I doubt I will ever go over 500-550 due to mpg and breaking my tranny :) So - I currently have a he351cw from john (AH64ID) here. Works well but want more. So underneath it as a primary will be a s472. My first step will be STUDS. This will be a longish thread. I am going to follow the ARP sequence and instructions for torque - you can get that here. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/ARP%20Head%20Stud%20Installation.pdf Likely to start in around 6-7 days after weekend :) Will be ordering twins shortly as lead time is around 3 weeks.

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PICS! I am going to build my own, but always like build thread and pics. Where you getting the kit? I still searching for a cheap s475. Good luck! :thumbup2:

Yes will be a thread of pics ;) Best place for a cheap new s475 is crazy carls (thats where Im getting my stuff) - cheaper would be used on CF :) 1st tip from instructions. It says in multiple forums/places to install studs finger tight. I was confused what this meant - AH64ID reminded me (2nd time by looking in old trhead) that the studs have the allen screw and you use that to finger tighten it down till it bottoms out - and then back off 1/4 turn as per arp instructions ready for torque of nut. :thumbup2: I am also doing this in the recommended sequence replacing one stock with one arp until all done and then will come back and retorque to full spec and finally one more time after a gently warm run. This will be with the head on.
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Crazy carls is a little more then I found but has the size I want. :woot: Maybe only ~$75ish more worth it to get the turbo I want and that will work. Spending that much money I dont want to "have to live with it"

sne him an email message with the price you found it for elsewhere - he might work with you - good guy
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How bad are your EGTs and what's your setup? I'm sure it's posted elsewhere so a link instead of a recap would be great, then the twins can stay here and chatting about that can go there....

With the he351cw running juice on level 6 (HOT) and +75 injectors aroudn 600 cruising. At WOT only around 1100-1200. With a load up a large incline I an hit 1275. I get nervous after 1100 - its just a personal thing. I can reach sustained temps of 1200 on large pulls and I dont like it - and I don't like taking hills slower than ~40 mph as I don't want the TC to unlock. Methanol helps - but I hate refilling - and twins will support me if I want to go bigger, give me higher boost in all rpm bands and cool my egts towing where I will trust the wife (she dfoesnt look at monitors). Studs should be started this monday/tuesday. Twins should be ordered today so 3 weeks till I get them. First part will cover stud install with pics. I have already redone my valve lash last week.
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Should be a SWEET build!

I think you're being wildly conservative to worry at those temps. I try not to sustain over 1350 and call it good :whistle:

I use 1300° as my max continuous.. I would love it lower, but not sure my wallet would :spend::spend: I only broke 1250° on one trip last year, and this year I will have a Air Boss and grid delete installed...
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Ok do was going to start this today but I see my torque wrench maxes out at 80 ft pounds. So off to shops to get a larger one and do some chores. So pics will start to upload tomorrow.

As for turbo its a non vgt off a 3rd gen. It's a very nice turbo and much better than a hx/hy35 .... Quick spoolup and more air. It pulls nice .

My workshop

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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?n5ysop

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Get some!!

Thanks John. FYI some of the help/answers here came from John (AH64ID) via pm. Didn't want to clatter the thread - one key one was the rockers are just held each side by oil friction - I was confused at time of need to pull off the set screw for valve lash - no you don't !! I wasn't 100% sure on this as never paid close attn. so just pull them off and keep pushrods and cross heads on.
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Number 11 was too tight with heater core coolant hose so removed - should do this prior to valve cover off.

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HALFWAY - around 2.5 hours - lost 1 hour finding big breaker bar and socket

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--- Update to the previous post...

18 of 26 done.

Toghest ones are going to be in the back.

Got to stop for today for work. Start again in morning.:thumbup2:

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