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Engine Pulling Pics.

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Heres what I got done so far. Bout 3 hours worth. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=98 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=99 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=100 Those damn timing cover bolts were finger tight. I have seen that out of a lot of 12v's so if you ever get in there, lock tite the hell out of those bolts!

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All I got left to do is find the cherry picker. It is completely done and ready to be pulled. So it took me, about 8 hours. So that means the average diy'er can do it in 4. I am completely covered in oil/grease/antifreeze. I can't wait to put in a CLEAN engine.. :eek:

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Engine didn't look as different as the frame after I cleaned it, wasn't as much grease. So I didn't take any pics of it. I got the AFC all heli-coiled and now its as solid as the rest of the truck. Going to take all the bolts out of the timing cover tomorrow and put more lock-tite on them. Then I am going to throw it back in the truck. I am going to Michigan and New York, leaving Wednesday so it has to be done by the end of the day Tuesday. I took the engine mount brackets off and I have a feeling that it will go in the truck and everything a lot easier without them. Then simply throw them on once it is conjoined to the trans. I fought them last time because of the huge bushing absorber thingers. I had to go up until the back of the engine was trying break the cowl in two until I could get those bushings off and have some room to move the engine forward. The power steering pump was also a PITA because it has long studs to slide off the vacuum pump and it hits the IP before it comes off. There was this weird thing I had to bed up and do all kinds of things to, to get it out of the way. Those long studs are indeed studs though, so I am going to take them out so then I can stick the pump on and throw the studs in without having to tear up the IP. The fuel return line is also hard to get off because the hose goes back to behind the IP and fuel filter, so you can barely get to it. So other than those things which I guess i have solved, cept the return line.. it was pretty simple. The engine mounts are slotted too, so you just have to loosen the bolts and then pull the engine up out of the mount, don't have to take the bolts out or anything.

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Oh. Well let's see here. Based on what you know about me and the time it takes me to do things...... Decided a days worth of paint drying was too long. I do want to take every metal fuel line off and paint them ride though. I was going to do that today but, figured I had better get the damn thing in and done already :lol3: I will get it painted some day. If I can put it back together then taking it back out and all will be a breeze. I am already a pro at taking this laptop completely apart :whistle:

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Think I can top that also. Have had the ford's engine out for months and haven't even begun to look at it. Now that all the oil has parted ways with it, it's starting to rust :thud: Not sure if I should care about that engine or not :lol3:

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I have been back at parent's for a while. Got a big garage here with any tool you can think of. Finally got a movie of it starting since I got all the negatives figured out.

It smokes like that until it warms up, another thing timing did to it..
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Mopar1973Man

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I have been back at parent's for a while. Got a big garage here with any tool you can think of. Finally got a movie of it starting since I got all the negatives figured out.

It smokes like that until it warms up, another thing timing did to it..
Well as for the smoke cold thatis normal even my truck does that with the Edge Comp cranked up in the mornings... Then if I leave quickly without much warm up it rattles to beat all. (timming rattle).
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