He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins

[Me78569]

OEM intake OEM filter.  

 

Supposed I should go with a BHAF at some point, but again with cruising throttle the OEM should be more than fine.

 

I do have pretty heavy tires for being 235/85/16  I am thinking that might be the sole reason why I lost a couple mpg compared to my last long highway only trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Call this a crazy idea, but what if I was to install limiting straps ( between the frame and axle) to hold the truck lower for trips like this?  I would figure if the straps are strong enough to widthstand the stock of being "snapped" on suspension unloading, they would hold the truck down just fine.

 

I have been SERIOUSLY considering installing bags on all 4 corners so I can drop the truck when I don't need the clearance. I bet there is 6"-8" to give when it comes to how much you would take down my truck without any issues.   My truck sits VERY high for a stock truck, might get some drop shackles, or maybe a smaller block.

 

Dropping the truck that much would seriously reduce the amount drag due to wind resistance.

[Vais01]

OEM intake OEM filter.

Supposed I should go with a BHAF at some point, but again with cruising throttle the OEM should be more than fine.

I do have pretty heavy tires for being 235/85/16 I am thinking that might be the sole reason why I lost a couple mpg compared to my last long highway only trip.

Call this a crazy idea, but what if I was to install limiting straps ( between the frame and axle) to hold the truck lower for trips like this? I would figure if the straps are strong enough to widthstand the stock of being "snapped" on suspension unloading, they would hold the truck down just fine.

I have been SERIOUSLY considering installing bags on all 4 corners so I can drop the truck when I don't need the clearance. I bet there is 6" to give when it comes to how much you would take down my truck without any issues. My truck sits VERY high for a stock truck, might get some drop shackles, or maybe a smaller block.

Dropping the truck that much would seriously reduce the amount drag due to wind resistance.

I'm guessing your a 4x4?

What tire are you running? Brand and model?

I don't think your going to benefit that much from squatting the truck.

[Me78569]

235/85/16

 

Kenda MT tire.  They are a good #10 heavier than my last set of 235/85/16's but they are Luggy and do great in the mountains, so it is worth it.

 

Yep I am a 4x4.  I do think there would be a good bit to gain from dropping the entire truck 6" or so.

 

I am not really complaining about mpg's by any means, always just looking for something to do haha.  

[Vais01]

235/85/16

Kenda MT tire. They are a good #10 heavier than my last set of 235/85/16's but they are Luggy and do great in the mountains, so it is worth it.

Yep I am a 4x4. I do think there would be a good bit to gain from dropping the entire truck 6" or so.

I am not really complaining about mpg's by any means, always just looking for something to do haha.

It would only cause other issues with the suspension and driveline.

Yes those tires have a very high rolling resistance that is a big reason to loose MPG. I run Goodyear Wrangler All Terrain Adventure tires great on the road and great for gravel and oil field lease roads.

[Me78569]

yep I was guessing they account for 2 mpg or so, maybe 3.  

 

Oh well, I will change it up next time I guess.  I REALLY hate buying tires.

[Me78569]

Drove around a bit yesterday in mpg mode and it seems that egts are down a little more.  I need to redo the curve some because with the turbo opening so fast it has a hard time spinning the turbo fast enough, >36,000rpm, to open fully to the 14cm that I wanted.  

 

I adjusted the code some and we will see how that does.  I need to figure out how I want to hand this curve.  I dunno if I want it to snap out of "M" mode if you get onto the throttle more than x amount or just leave it the way it is and say " if you need power don't run this curve"

 

Maybe just a simple if statement on the curve select

if (potvalue < 40 && TPS < 40){

}
else {towcurve}

 

dunno

[Vais01]

yep I was guessing they account for 2 mpg or so, maybe 3.

Oh well, I will change it up next time I guess. I REALLY hate buying tires.

As do I but normally I start researching tires once every few years just to keep up to speed and know what my next tire will be.

[Vais01]

Drove around a bit yesterday in mpg mode and it seems that egts are down a little more. I need to redo the curve some because with the turbo opening so fast it has a hard time spinning the turbo fast enough, >36,000rpm, to open fully to the 14cm that I wanted.

I adjusted the code some and we will see how that does. I need to figure out how I want to hand this curve. I dunno if I want it to snap out of "M" mode if you get onto the throttle more than x amount or just leave it the way it is and say " if you need power don't run this curve"

Maybe just a simple if statement on the curve select

if (potvalue < 40 && TPS < 40){

}
else {towcurve}

dunno

Just from experience a 14cm from a dead stop and accelerating with about 30% load will have boost pressure until the transmission locks the converter around 50 mph at that point all boost is lost and the engine lugs due to a no boost situation. What I had done on my Fleece controller was create a tiny hump in the map so when the truck shifted into overdrive and the converter locked the boost pressure would stay constant.

[Me78569]

yea,

 

been mulling that over.  I have the same "issue" at 35mph and 45 mph when not on the throttle above %35 or so.   Since the code I am on controls the turbo via turbo shaft rpm it will already shrink down a bit when it shifts just due to the turbo speed slowing down.  

 

I guess I need to compare tps and watch for if turbo speed slows more than %10 and tps is constant to close the veins some.  

 

 

 

I need to figure-out a way to bring engine RPM into the arduino also.

 

 

 

I would REALLY like to talk to Jacob at DAP and see if he would consider porting out the canbus info from the quadzilla via serial so you could use the quad box in conjunction with another unit.  Expand to a turbo controller or something like that.

[Vais01]

yea,

been mulling that over. I have the same "issue" at 35mph and 45 mph when not on the throttle above %35 or so. Since the code I am on controls the turbo via turbo shaft rpm it will already shrink down a bit when it shifts just due to the turbo speed slowing down.

I guess I need to compare tps and watch for if turbo speed slows more than %10 and tps is constant to close the veins some.

I need to figure-out a way to bring engine RPM into the arduino also.

I would REALLY like to talk to Jacob at DAP and see if he would consider porting out the canbus info from the quadzilla via serial so you could use the quad box in conjunction with another unit. Expand to a turbo controller or something like that.

During a shift the TPS remains the same but the Load % changes.

If you integrated VGT tuning within something such as a Quadzilla the turbo vanes would have to change percentage of closure accordingly. It would be the only way to seamlessly integrate the VGT with the early 24 valve trucks.

The cost for such a product would be pretty high.

[Me78569]

I have the quadzilla ADR schematics thanks to the old owner.

I need to look over them and see if there is a serial output in the mainharness. I also have the X2 protocol docs that the quad uses to send the sensor values to the screen. I could fairly easily port that data stream to the Arduino. Tps load etc is in that stream.

Humm.m time to do some reading through my docs.

[Me78569]

well 14cm works well on flat ground at 65ish.  As soon as you hit a hill though egts climb to near 1000*.  Living in the Rockies kinda puts a damper on the fun I guess haha.  

 

 

Gonna have to think on it some.

[Vais01]

well 14cm works well on flat ground at 65ish. As soon as you hit a hill though egts climb to near 1000*. Living in the Rockies kinda puts a damper on the fun I guess haha.

Gonna have to think on it some.

This is the exact same results I had. It yielded me the best economy. If you could tighten the turbo to 12cm you will see a reduction of EGT of 100 drgrees. With my turbo and current truck configuration I see 800-900 degrees. With the HE351VE I used to see 1000 to 900 degrees on a large and rather steep bridge.

This is the peak temperature after the EGT stabilized.

[Vais01]

I have the quadzilla ADR schematics thanks to the old owner.

I need to look over them and see if there is a serial output in the mainharness. I also have the X2 protocol docs that the quad uses to send the sensor values to the screen. I could fairly easily port that data stream to the Arduino. Tps load etc is in that stream.

Humm.m time to do some reading through my docs.

That could show promise. Remember TPS remains stable but as load and road speed increases the turbo needs to react accordingly. At idle 8-9cm, at max engine load accelerating hard it should remain that way until boost values increase to approximately 15 psi at that point the vanes should begin shifting to the 14cm position. The transition should be smooth and nearly linear. Part throttle acceleration is a little more difficult, you should use the same starting point but the vanes may only open up to 12cm to keep transient boost up. The VGT on our trucks should put out roughly 5-7 psi of boost at cruising speed. I say 5 is best but your truck may like a few PSI more. Edited September 4, 2015 by Vais01

[Vais01]

Any update to the new software adjustments?

[Me78569]

Version 1.04 is out.

 

some small changes

 

curves are moved down one IE: DD mode is now Perf mode and Tow is now DD mode.  With 1.03 curves I was unable to get boost above 32 psi due to drive pressure never really going above 32 psi. Tightening the housing has helped that.  Now the turbo will run at 2:1 drive pressure ratio until 10 psi or so, then it will taper down to nearly 1:1 at 25psi and above. Before Tow curve was unable to build more than about 15-20psi.  It will now build some more on injector fueling only.

 

I might need to tighten it down a little more, but if I do turbo shaft speed will start to get too high for my liking.  Currently Turbo rpm sits right at 120k-140k.  Holset says they balance to 130k so 140k is a little high, but I KNOW for a fact that if you are pushing over 35psi of boost shaft speed is going to be north of 140k.  

 

However if you look at the hx35/hx40/he351's and how hard guys push the turbo without issues I am guessing that 140k isn't that big of a deal.  

 

 

I am surprised how nicely drive pressure hangs close to 1:1 on the top end.  You really have to over speed the turbo to get drive pressure anywhere near 1.5:1 at 30 psi.  

 

I have raised the turbo shaft speed limit to 145k, at which point it will open the house one half cm per read until shaft speed drops. 

 

I have also changed the cruising position to 12cm rather than 14cm.  14cm is doable at sea level, but for me at 7000' 14cm is too big unless running on level ground.  Lets face it I NEVER encounter level ground here where I live.  

 

 

After working through this I can see why 6.7 guys are blowing turbos left and right.  They are REALLY overspeeding the turbo if they are anywhere near 500hp on a stock turbo.  Fueling to get near 500hp on a 6.7 isn't hard to do with just a tuner.  I would say that if you want the he351ve to last the max hp you can push is 425hp-450hp.

 

Side note,

 

I have put some though into doing a PCB for this project, but I am unsure if I really want to go into selling these things.  I am already lacking in free time.  

[Vais01]

Version 1.04 is out.

some small changes

curves are moved down one IE: DD mode is now Perf mode and Tow is now DD mode. With 1.03 curves I was unable to get boost above 32 psi due to drive pressure never really going above 32 psi. Tightening the housing has helped that. Now the turbo will run at 2:1 drive pressure ratio until 10 psi or so, then it will taper down to nearly 1:1 at 25psi and above. Before Tow curve was unable to build more than about 15-20psi. It will now build some more on injector fueling only.

I might need to tighten it down a little more, but if I do turbo shaft speed will start to get too high for my liking. Currently Turbo rpm sits right at 120k-140k. Holset says they balance to 130k so 140k is a little high, but I KNOW for a fact that if you are pushing over 35psi of boost shaft speed is going to be north of 140k.

However if you look at the hx35/hx40/he351's and how hard guys push the turbo without issues I am guessing that 140k isn't that big of a deal.

I am surprised how nicely drive pressure hangs close to 1:1 on the top end. You really have to over speed the turbo to get drive pressure anywhere near 1.5:1 at 30 psi.

I have raised the turbo shaft speed limit to 145k, at which point it will open the house one half cm per read until shaft speed drops.

I have also changed the cruising position to 12cm rather than 14cm. 14cm is doable at sea level, but for me at 7000' 14cm is too big unless running on level ground. Lets face it I NEVER encounter level ground here where I live.

After working through this I can see why 6.7 guys are blowing turbos left and right. They are REALLY overspeeding the turbo if they are anywhere near 500hp on a stock turbo. Fueling to get near 500hp on a 6.7 isn't hard to do with just a tuner. I would say that if you want the he351ve to last the max hp you can push is 425hp-450hp.

Side note,

I have put some though into doing a PCB for this project, but I am unsure if I really want to go into selling these things. I am already lacking in free time.

Very good. 35 PSI is attainable but shaft speed is on the edge. The turbo will give max flow at 140,000 RPM anyway so there is no need to push that hard. Even though you only see 32 PSI of boost pressure the flow of the HE351VE is greater so you produce cooler boost at that pressure.

The key I'd getting enough airflow into the inlet of the turbo to provide the most efficient boost possible.

Another value you could try if possible is 12.5Cm or even 13Cm. 12Cm is great for transient response and as you stated drive pressure is not nearly an issue when the turbo calms down. Cummins I believe did spec the turbo above 2.0:1 drive pressure to boost ratio but that is never good for gaskets. The 6.7 Cummins draws some of the exhaust gas from the exhaust manifold so they rarely over speed a turbo unless they push well over 500hp. They intentionally program higher drive pressures on the turbo to ensure the pressure driving the turbo is great enough to give ample boost and also provide enough EGR flow at maximum duty-cycle of the EGR mixing valve. 6.7 Cummins engines and 5.9 High Output engines from 2004.5 - 2007 use MLX head gaskets(multi layer steel) to ensure the gasket does not fail with high drive pressure.

To stay efficient the HE351VE likes to be at a maximum of 32 PSI of boost. So your in the sweet spot.

Keep us posted with any changes and updates.

[Me78569]

Do you have a valid compressor map for the 351????

 

 

I figured I was in the sweet spot when the tuner was turned up, but I wanted to get into the sweet spot on my tow tune and dd tune, while not overdriving the turbo too hard with the tuner turned up.  

 

My cruise section keeps the turbo between 12cm and 14cm which works well here.   For the guys that have more o2 to work with I would suggest they bump that up by a cm. 

 

Still pondering how to nicely kick out of cruise mode when you put your foot down.  I dunno if I want to keep it as a manual process to move out of cruise mode or automatically do it if you get over a %throttle.

[Vais01]

Do you have a valid compressor map for the 351????

I figured I was in the sweet spot when the tuner was turned up, but I wanted to get into the sweet spot on my tow tune and dd tune, while not overdriving the turbo too hard with the tuner turned up.

My cruise section keeps the turbo between 12cm and 14cm which works well here. For the guys that have more o2 to work with I would suggest they bump that up by a cm.

Still pondering how to nicely kick out of cruise mode when you put your foot down. I dunno if I want to keep it as a manual process to move out of cruise mode or automatically do it if you get over a %throttle.

I do not have a map any longer. Although an HX Super 40 compressor is what is used on the HE351VE. It's a capable turbo but has its limitations.

Now the best way to remotely change the position of the vanes would be via Engine load vs TPS %. You may only need an incremental adjustment when engine load comes up while cruising but when you go WOT the the TPS and engine load both shoot up. Engine load mat only come up to 86% but the TPS will give a 100% value in voltage. .6 to .54 volts at idle but wide open will be around 5 volts a believe.

The boost pressure is safe to 40 PSI but shaft speed may become excessive on the HE351VE just due to the fact the A/R ratio may be too tight.

I will see if I can get the HX Super 40 compressor map again if so I will need to email the map because I can not post photos via the phone.

[Me78569]

I have seen several hx40 maps, but none that match the flow specs that holset gives (67-69lb.min) and none that extend beyond 107k.