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Me78569

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Everything posted by Me78569

  1. What borg warner 66? What are the full specs of each turbo? T3 or T4? A tune isn't going to solve your issue. The first step should be loading up my large injector tunes and trying them, but you also need to SERIOUSLY consider a gearing a change. 4.10's will make a world of difference.
  2. Who's injectors? What tune are you running? Post datalogs. What have you done so far to tune it? Have you followed the tuning guide? What turbo is the 66? Seems like a bad setup for a twin setup. Normally guys run a 62 /75 setup.
  3. So I did this almost a year ago; but since someone on the forum asked me to post it I will. FIRST OFF: THIS IS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART: I've done a lot of conversions, engine swaps, and a lot of intricate trim work on houses; and by far and away, this was one of the MOST difficult projects I have ever tackled. THIS WILL TAKE A LONG TIME: The TRS guides lie; this will probably take you 2-3 days, even with my having paved the road. This was, by far and away, one of my biggest complaints with the Ram. It's factory projector halogens just sucked. I have become used to good headlights in European and Japanese luxury sedans, and this was just severely lacking. I debating just upgrading the bulbs and converting to HID. Had I known then what I know now; I probably would have. That being said: These are the best headlights I've ever had on any vehicle I've owned. They're simply amazing. I have a few pics of before and after with the headlights: Before; low beams and fogs http://photobucket.com/confirmation?...42bovmnyEnN11H Before; just low beams Before High Beams I bought the full FX-R kit from The Retrofit Source. First stop is just taking the headlights out. Removal is simple, and there are several youtube videos on how to do this. With those out of the way, I routed the wiring to get an idea and didn't a test fit for the connectors. My biggest complaint with the TRS wiring harness is that it's a bit short; especially on the passenger side. Started with just layout; feeding the wiring harness through and seeing where things fit the best. With the headlights removed; I took the backing plates off to see what the inside looks like and how the wiring is going to have to go together. If you look closely you will see three connectors. Single red/white wire is the solenoid control that pulls the "lid" up for high beams in the projectors. Double connector closest to that is (purple/aqua) is the halogen low-beam lamp in the projector; the last one is recessed into the high beam bulb (halogen) The TRS instructions say to take the headlights inside and bake them to get them to come apart. So...inside we go... Supposedly a couple minutes (like 10) around 200* will work to get the glue to melt that bonds the clear plastic covering over the internal chrome pieces. I removed it; and it was hard as a rock. Back for more... same and more... same... And more heat... same. and longer time and it finally started to loosen. At this point I believe I was up to around 250* and had been baking in excess of 45 minutes. I'd get a corner loosened, and get that unstuck, and then it would cool off, and it'd have to go back into the oven and heat up. The plastic black "housing" with the slot where the clear plastic sits would want to melt and deform before the glue holding the two together did. It was a delicate balancing act of heat, pressure, time, and a LOT of cussing. The "glue" they used came out in little pieces, and as soon as they got cool were hard as nails. It took HOURS to get each headlight apart and the channel cleaned up so that you would be able to reinsert. Leather gloves were critical, as was a large beach towel to be able to hold the light, as it was pretty warm at this point. The best tool was a small screwdriver (flat) and most useful was a good solid putty knife. Pretty sure there was a utility knife in there someplace as well. Finally NOTE WELL: Once that clear lens is off; CLEANLINESS is next to godliness. The Chrome on the inner parts of the plastic lens scratches VERY easily. I handled this very tenderly. The only thing you should really allow to touch is a high end detail quality microfiber. A vacuum, making sure your hands/tools/bench/is clean is IMPERATIVE. And if you get impatient, and crank the heat up too much; or leave it in too long... You too, can have a new piece of wall art. I managed to turn the orange turn signal into a wavy potato chip. So... off to buy new ones of those (which are un-obtanium, btw). But clear ones exist... So I ordered smoked ones, on overnight delivery... which would arrive on Monday (quite after I expected to be done with this project. Oh well. Onto the next step... New Projector: This thing weighs about 4x what the stock unit does. Quite nice. Here you can see the solenoid and the shutter that raises for high beam operation. Hmm. Now Houston, we have another problem. The screws are too short. See how the screws go through. Technically these hex spacers are threaded; but I needed a secure connection to the fiberglass mounting plate and the housing of the projector. And the nuts that TRS provided are not Ny-lock; and the screws aren't long enough. Well... None of that worked for me. I bought new stainless steel screws and NyLock nuts for each of the screws. No way did I want a projector coming loose. with the correct screws and everything bolted together we can test fit the new projector. Now here's the crappy part. The high beam wire needs to go through to capture the high beam light bulb; and I didn't want to drill a second hole in the backing plate. I decided to cut the wires; solder them together with the weather grommet, and go on. I attempted to get the terminals out of the connector and pulling the wires through, but I was unsuccessful and on a time-line. This project was already triple the hours I had allowed and we weren't even close to finished. Finally. I"ve gotten my wiring done inside the headlights, my projectors installed in both lamps, and now I'm waiting on the wonderful new clear lenses to arrive. Back out to the truck to mount the rest of the hardware; the resistor packs, the ballasts, and tidy up the wiring. I mounted my resistors on the frame rail. I drilled a small pilot hole and then used self tapping screws on an impact gun to mount these. If you look at the top of this picture; you'll see the ballast resting above the headlight. I was able to get one screw into this; and then a strip of double sided 3M tape to secure this. night shot; no headlights. Look closely, you can make out the lit parking lot on the left and the one streetlamp. Low beams with fogs Low beams without fogs High beams Low beams with fogs Low beams without fogs High beams The improvement is absolutely earth shattering. There is no Porsche, Audi, BMW, MB, Lexus on the road that has been light than I do. The beam pattern is so sharp and clear; it throws such a wide cast. I do not get flashed for having my high beams on; and the cut-off is astounding. The high beams are like turning on the sun. It's a HUGE amount of effort to do this. I NEVER *want* to do this again. But I'm willing to bet that I would, if I bought a new truck. The improvement is absolutely astounding. View full Cummins article
  4. So I did this almost a year ago; but since someone on the forum asked me to post it I will. FIRST OFF: THIS IS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART: I've done a lot of conversions, engine swaps, and a lot of intricate trim work on houses; and by far and away, this was one of the MOST difficult projects I have ever tackled. THIS WILL TAKE A LONG TIME: The TRS guides lie; this will probably take you 2-3 days, even with my having paved the road. This was, by far and away, one of my biggest complaints with the Ram. It's factory projector halogens just sucked. I have become used to good headlights in European and Japanese luxury sedans, and this was just severely lacking. I debating just upgrading the bulbs and converting to HID. Had I known then what I know now; I probably would have. That being said: These are the best headlights I've ever had on any vehicle I've owned. They're simply amazing. I have a few pics of before and after with the headlights: Before; low beams and fogs http://photobucket.com/confirmation?...42bovmnyEnN11H Before; just low beams Before High Beams I bought the full FX-R kit from The Retrofit Source. First stop is just taking the headlights out. Removal is simple, and there are several youtube videos on how to do this. With those out of the way, I routed the wiring to get an idea and didn't a test fit for the connectors. My biggest complaint with the TRS wiring harness is that it's a bit short; especially on the passenger side. Started with just layout; feeding the wiring harness through and seeing where things fit the best. With the headlights removed; I took the backing plates off to see what the inside looks like and how the wiring is going to have to go together. If you look closely you will see three connectors. Single red/white wire is the solenoid control that pulls the "lid" up for high beams in the projectors. Double connector closest to that is (purple/aqua) is the halogen low-beam lamp in the projector; the last one is recessed into the high beam bulb (halogen) The TRS instructions say to take the headlights inside and bake them to get them to come apart. So...inside we go... Supposedly a couple minutes (like 10) around 200* will work to get the glue to melt that bonds the clear plastic covering over the internal chrome pieces. I removed it; and it was hard as a rock. Back for more... same and more... same... And more heat... same. and longer time and it finally started to loosen. At this point I believe I was up to around 250* and had been baking in excess of 45 minutes. I'd get a corner loosened, and get that unstuck, and then it would cool off, and it'd have to go back into the oven and heat up. The plastic black "housing" with the slot where the clear plastic sits would want to melt and deform before the glue holding the two together did. It was a delicate balancing act of heat, pressure, time, and a LOT of cussing. The "glue" they used came out in little pieces, and as soon as they got cool were hard as nails. It took HOURS to get each headlight apart and the channel cleaned up so that you would be able to reinsert. Leather gloves were critical, as was a large beach towel to be able to hold the light, as it was pretty warm at this point. The best tool was a small screwdriver (flat) and most useful was a good solid putty knife. Pretty sure there was a utility knife in there someplace as well. Finally NOTE WELL: Once that clear lens is off; CLEANLINESS is next to godliness. The Chrome on the inner parts of the plastic lens scratches VERY easily. I handled this very tenderly. The only thing you should really allow to touch is a high end detail quality microfiber. A vacuum, making sure your hands/tools/bench/is clean is IMPERATIVE. And if you get impatient, and crank the heat up too much; or leave it in too long... You too, can have a new piece of wall art. I managed to turn the orange turn signal into a wavy potato chip. So... off to buy new ones of those (which are un-obtanium, btw). But clear ones exist... So I ordered smoked ones, on overnight delivery... which would arrive on Monday (quite after I expected to be done with this project. Oh well. Onto the next step... New Projector: This thing weighs about 4x what the stock unit does. Quite nice. Here you can see the solenoid and the shutter that raises for high beam operation. Hmm. Now Houston, we have another problem. The screws are too short. See how the screws go through. Technically these hex spacers are threaded; but I needed a secure connection to the fiberglass mounting plate and the housing of the projector. And the nuts that TRS provided are not Ny-lock; and the screws aren't long enough. Well... None of that worked for me. I bought new stainless steel screws and NyLock nuts for each of the screws. No way did I want a projector coming loose. with the correct screws and everything bolted together we can test fit the new projector. Now here's the crappy part. The high beam wire needs to go through to capture the high beam light bulb; and I didn't want to drill a second hole in the backing plate. I decided to cut the wires; solder them together with the weather grommet, and go on. I attempted to get the terminals out of the connector and pulling the wires through, but I was unsuccessful and on a time-line. This project was already triple the hours I had allowed and we weren't even close to finished. Finally. I"ve gotten my wiring done inside the headlights, my projectors installed in both lamps, and now I'm waiting on the wonderful new clear lenses to arrive. Back out to the truck to mount the rest of the hardware; the resistor packs, the ballasts, and tidy up the wiring. I mounted my resistors on the frame rail. I drilled a small pilot hole and then used self tapping screws on an impact gun to mount these. If you look at the top of this picture; you'll see the ballast resting above the headlight. I was able to get one screw into this; and then a strip of double sided 3M tape to secure this. night shot; no headlights. Look closely, you can make out the lit parking lot on the left and the one streetlamp. Low beams with fogs Low beams without fogs High beams Low beams with fogs Low beams without fogs High beams The improvement is absolutely earth shattering. There is no Porsche, Audi, BMW, MB, Lexus on the road that has been light than I do. The beam pattern is so sharp and clear; it throws such a wide cast. I do not get flashed for having my high beams on; and the cut-off is astounding. The high beams are like turning on the sun. It's a HUGE amount of effort to do this. I NEVER *want* to do this again. But I'm willing to bet that I would, if I bought a new truck. The improvement is absolutely astounding.
  5. noticable pump in power compared to what?
  6. without timing mpg will be garbage. If you liked the edge run the edge.
  7. Guessing your timing is too high. what mods do you have? I would drop your 1500 rpm timing mark down by 1 or 2*. I am seeing 17* of timing at 1300 rpm in your images
  8. Ac noise and the wt ground mod pinned at the top of the section
  9. Reflash the box and see what happens.
  10. Really the entire front end suspension should be gone through. Steering, control arms, ball joints, track bar. Anything between the tires and the frame. Pull the pan off and check for stuff that is not stamped steel. Example would be a aftermarket strut. These are aftermarket.
  11. I would drop the Torque converter cover and look for an after market converter. Then do the same in the valve body. There are Pan off upgrades that could be done, if they are done it might give you an idea about what you have. Other than that the typical 2nd gen stuff like, replace the entire front end.
  12. If the computer doesn't beep at you when you plug in the quad then you don't have a data transfer cable. It should beep regardless of everything else.
  13. one developer vs a team of developers It is what it is, another reason why I wish Quadzilla wouldn't do a standalone screen and would put development money in place on the app.
  14. I am not saying it's not, but If I just left the app on and let it do it's thing it connected automatically on the 1st try %95 of the time. something in the app in the reconnect cycle code is causing the issue, but it only seems to be an issue if you mess with it lol.
  15. My app worked best if I just let it run 24/7 365.
  16. No sound when you plug in the xzt means the cable or the usb plug on the computer or tuner is not transmitting data. You need a sound to happen
  17. It is also important to point out that wiretap fueling is hard to control and the resulting fuel tends to end up with EGT issues when you push duration as far as it will go. Using bigger injectors and less duration means you will make the same amount of power, but with less egt and better mpg. Key thing to remember is the point of being able to control timing is to get your injection point tuned to a specific place in the rotation of the engine. The more duration you have the longer your injector spray and the more * of rotation the engine has for that injection event. You want to inject as much fuel as possible in the shortest period of time to keep things efficent. My memory is hazy at this point, but I believe at WOT commanding full canbus and an additional 2400us worth of wiretap puts you at or near 90* of crank rotation from start to finish of your injection event. Thats ALONG time injecting fuel.
  18. It's all guesses. without seeing the maps it is anyones best guess. The tunes I ran did what they did and the datalogs show that, but a flash another s03 has might not be the same so it is impossible to compare.
  19. Use the tune builder. You can look at any tune.
  20. open your app, create a tune in the app export the tune. edit the tune using the tune builder to match the hosted tunes. import the tune. IOS is dumb.
  21. yes a tune for 7 x .010's will not be well suited for you. There are a half dozen stock to small injector tunes in the tune section. Download those, run them and see what you think.
  22. I figured they were torn or something. I mis understood.
  23. don't split egt probe wires. You can't rename a gauge in the app itself unless you edit the xml file that controls the the vehicle profile. You can see how to do this in the quadzilla tips and tricks article, but most dont bother.
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