Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule.
This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option.
I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask
Wiring at the PCM
Tapping the BK/WT wire at pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set. What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line. This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code