2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

Although it's a bit of a moot point as the tranny has packed it in and will need a replacement. I'm not the person to do my own rebuild, so it's buying a reman or going to the local shop. I'd love to know what causes the situation I experienced. Was coming down a long grade off a mountain pass in BC and the tranny began to clunk. Four mountain passes later, it was toast. The final symptoms were a progression from clunking on deceleration to clunking on acceleration. Then, grinding, then, no gears. Towed it home and now trying to figure out what to do next. Be nice to know how much damage I did and if I'm better off with buying a reman or getting it rebuilt locally. Thinki…

Ive never been afraid of doing just about anything to my truck. but this 60lb spring install seems to sound a little sketchy. ive read across all forums and looked on youtube and i have a general idea of how to do it. the only thing im worried about is being ABSOLUTELY sure that im at TDC so my valves dont drop into the cylinder. i was going to try to complete the job tomorrow because i need my truck for work on monday. is there any sure way to tell that i'm at TDC? i've seen the method where you use a dial indicator, (i do not have one)and also the method of pulling the injector (that seems time consuming and i do not have a tool to pull injectors)i was hoping there was …

So my NP241 DHD, with the two piece tailhousing decided to grenade- Buddy sent me a DLD to put in for the time being. I installed it, and noticed that the two retaining notches on the pinion yoke had sheared off...I figured it may or may not hold, with the ujoint straps, but I tried to drive it into work...and promptly slung the driveshaft off. The ujoint caps flung off, and the driveshaft dropped. So, I drove it home in 4 wheel drive, and parked it. Ordered a new pinion yoke from Rock Auto, and overnighted it. Got it installed tonight, new ujoint, and got the driveshaft in. I took it for a test drive, and I now have a bad vibration as soon as I hit…

For the 1212 people in engine in a 2003 Dodge ram and it starts and runs fine with no smoke that has very little power I swapped out some used injectors in a different turbo hoping that was the issue is not change anything filters are new any suggestions?

Just as the title say's my boss took out the work truck a 1997 dodge 3500 4x4 5spd. Down to the river after work 2 week's ago it had been raining for day's and has rained almost every day since. Needless to say due to mostly an inabilty to drive a dually on wet ground and laziness. We seen today that the truck had water almost over the cab!!!! So without a doubt the truck is totaled now and should it still stay put and not get washed away in the flood. I have requested to get first dib's on the truck to buy the truck back from the ins company. so i guess my question is how much damage should i expect. I have rebuilt many wrecked vehcile's and i know to stay away from salt…

Hello fellow Dodge truck enthusiasts. I have a 1997 Ram 2500 4x4 Ext/Cab diesel automatic. I have in the last few weeks encountered a problem I haven't been able to fix. Its been in the shop costing me thousands and I don't know if I should scrap the truck. Its in such great shape. I just had it repainted 3 weeks ago. After parking the truck from a normal days paved highway use. Start truck: No tach, speedo, manifold heater, water in fuel light, charging, cruise control, overdrive or transmission shift, air conditioning. Shop has replaced PCM, wiring plugs connected to PCM, and spent dozens of hours trying to find the problem. I am running out of hope and money...

Looking at putting in head studs in my 97 12 valve. What's involved, do I have to tap any holes etc. any recommended brands ?

In an attempt to get the 160 pump fed the proper amount of fuel, I've ordered the fittings to dual feed the pump, as well as bump my fuel pressure up to hopefully between 45-55 psi. Once its all in, I will let you know how it runs then! I currently can run up to about 55 lbs of boost on these roads, with the pyro hitting around 1400/1500, and dropping back down. Fuel pressure is around 30 psi running normal, and starts to drop to about 25-28 psi under load, so hoping to add more fuel, and see if the truck doesn't seem to fall flat on its face when I'm at WOT. All in all, it's only going to run me about $50-60 for all the parts I need to do it.

I was looking on Larry B's website last week and saw the banjo bolt with internal snubber that they have and since I hadn't installed my fuel pressure gauge in my new truck yet I went ahead and got one of them and installed it tonight. Its a 12mm banjo bolt with 1/8th NPT threads in the top and has a .0006 in. pinhole acting as the snubber. http://www.fostertruck.com/gauge-snubber-drilled-banjo-bolt-combo.html On the 12v's it replaces the banjo bolt that has the bleed screw on top of it on the fuel filter housing. Then you just spin your pressure gauge sender down in and hook it all up. Everything installed: checked my pressure at idle and it was 13psi and at WOT I n…

is there a back up switch on a 95 47rh trany and transfer case?

hello i need help with the wiring on a 94 47rh trany any wiring diagrams would help thanks...........

hello i did a 12valve and 47RE conversion in a 1993 f-350 and trying to get the tcm wired up does any one have the wiring diagram for this im trying to get it done for my son so he can take it back to san dago . thanks

Costa Rica is not known for having the best roads which is one of the reasons i chose a tough truck , the other is I am providing transportation for boats up to 35' . This truck being mechanical is a blessing here in a country where the mechanics macgyver many things and most do not have the tools. I have been keeping this girl running in the tropics but I have been struggling with a problem for the past 2 yrs . Please help me . I am having 2 problems which i believe are inter-related . 1, randomly and I have never been able to see any pattern I go to start her and when i crank it she starts right up but when i release the key she shuts down . I know this is due to the sh…

So I finally got around to retuning my AFC yesterday, for the new turbos. I took the AFC off, checked the fuel plate (which is a 100, btw), and started tuning. The plate was already full forward, so I left it there-I figure with it being a 160 pump, it can use all the help I can give it. I set my air compressor to roughly 65 psi, which is what I know my max boost has been, and used my blowgun to pressurize the AFC. I then took it a slight step further than normal, and used a set of calipers to find at what point I had the most travel on the rack. Once I had the AFC starwheel adjusted for max travel, I then took the fuel screw, and backed it out to where it was just …

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Non-Temp-Cycling-Thermostat-Dodge-Ram-12-Valve-Cummins-Diesel-Engine-Van-6BT-4BT-/181079593163?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a292f50cb&vxp=mtr saw this on ebay, may be worth a try for some of you 12v guys and he also has a 195

So as some of you know, I've been fighting multiple 47RE issues. I had added a TCC lockup as well as an OD switch last year to 'band-aid' the shifting issues I was experiencing. In some testing, I had reconnected all wiring back to original. Last week, I relocated the toggle switches, and rewired them into the system. What I am now noticing is that the switches "work", but the TCC doesn't seem to be locking as solidly as before. Now, when I lock the TCC, I still get some rpm flaring when accelerating with the TC locked, regardless of whether or not the OD is 'engaged'. When I had it on toggles before, the TCC engaged was a solid lock; it felt like a manua…

You guys with a 12V auto.. Can I get someone to take a picture of the throttle linkage/tps section of your truck for me? Basically, I'm trying to determine the correct layout to fix my truck.The PO hodge-podged this entire truck. The TPS setup on my truck is so redneck, that I feel embarrassed to call myself a redneck.I'll post a pic shortly of what my current catastrophically engineered TPS mount looks like..I've got a buddy that has a '95 Auto converted to 5 speed. He no longer needs his TPS and bracketry, and said I could have it. Well, his looks completely different than my '97.Thanks.

So I've been thinking of switching injectors and going a little bit bigger to something like ddp 90hp injectors. I currently have stoxk injectors on my truck now (215hp 5x10) with a 145 degree spray from what I understand. Ddp injectors from what I understand are 5x12 at 155 degree spray angle. Is it worth the littlw bit of d difference to switch to the ddp injectors? Is anyone using them? If so how do you like them?

I have noticed the last two times I have put fuel in my truck that when I un-screw the fuel cap it hisses and sounds like a soda bottle when you open it. Why would this happen? My father told me he thinks that my fuel cap is bad and not venting. I have also noticed that my fuel pressure is a little low I believe. It bounces at idle between 10-14psi. I do have a snubber installed on my gauge as well. Also can anyone tell me what the stock fuel pressure is for a 12valve?

Is there any difference between 96 and 97 PCMs?I've found a '96 auto 4wd PCM but not sure it'll work in my '97...