All updates beyond this point will be placed in the article for this.  You can find the article here.  Feel free to post and questions or improvements to my writeup.

 

Thanks

 

Nick

 

 

Article can be found here.

 

 

 

Pre 7/6/15

 

This will show the progress in installing the he351ve into my 2nd gen cummins.  I will update as I go along.   This thread is not dealing with the controller needed for the he351ve.  The thread that covers the controller can be found here

 

Parts

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HX40 style Downpipe click to go to vulcan for the part ($125)

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t3 to wgmt flange adapter to mate the he351ve to the t3 exhaust manifold. ($150)

 

 

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4 Ft of 5/8' coolant hose for your local parts store ($10)

 

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5/8" oil rated hose 2' worth ($5)

 

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10 x 5/8" pipe clamps. 

 

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T3 oil drain ( ebay)

 

 

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2 x 5/8" T fitting ($5) Local Parts Store

 

 

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HE351Ve turbo ( $300-$600) depending on where you get it.  I would suggest CumminsForum or here of course if one is for sale.

 

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You will need some way of attaching the hotside intercooler tubes/boots to the turbo since the output from the Turbo faces forward rather than down like the 2nd gen turbos.  

 

I went with the charge tube from Stainlessdiesel.com HERE

 

You will need a  2.75" to 3" reducer and clamps for this to work.   

 

There are also reports that a 45* reducing elbow will work also.  unsure on that but you can try.

 

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First Specs on the Turbos

 

HX35 56/60/12 60ish lb/min left vs HE351ve 60/68/3-25 right 69ish lb/min

 

 

 

Start pulling the old turbo off

 

Use PB blaster or similar on the flange bolts for a few days prior to removal.

 

Double nut the two bottom studs and remove them so you can bolt the adapter flange to the manifold.  The short bots go in the bottom and the long bolts with the nuts attach the holes of the flange.

 

 

Next if your truck is like mine (auto) there is a hard coolant line just behind the exhaust manifold that will block the rear most bolt on the adapter flange from being used.  you can see the bolt hole in question.  

 

Use the 5/8"coolant hose and a 5/8" T fitting to remove the hardline and replace it with the coolant hose.  You will need to run this to just in front of the oil filter and also to the output of the coolant line from the HE351ve.

 

 

 

 

Next you need to remove the old downpipe if you don't already have an HX40 style installed.    this is a PITA to say the least.  I had to cut mine out.  The hx40 style downpipe flange will attach to the back of the he351ve without the elbow.

 

In order to allow for a more vertical position of the center section I cut off the top of the strut nut.

 

  

 

Center Section installed and coolant hose run to the turbo.  I still need to run the return to the hot line, but I need some more hose.

 

I used a sawzall to cut the flange off the Oil return tube.  I will use some oil rated hose to connect the turbo to the return line.  You can see in this picture that I just reused the OEM banjo bolts for the coolant connections.  I used a hack saw to cut the braided section off so it was just a solid metal banjo bolt.  I then just pushed the 5/8" coolant line over and used a hose clamp.  I will do an fittings at some point, but for now this will work.

 

 

Once the center section is installed,ensure you have removed the alignment dowels from the compressor housing so you can clock the compressor like so

 

 

Use the preferred method of connecting the charge pipe, I choose the stainless diesel pipe and a 2.75" to " reducer then reused the oem 3" to 3.5" elbow at the intercooler.   Alighn all boots and tighten down the clamps.  

 

Note the position of the passenger side neg battery cable to the engine block.  I might have to redo this with a new longer cable, I have been meaning to anyways, but I haven't gotten to it.

 

I used a pfe 5/8" hose to replace the hard metal oil drain.  There is a larger diameter coupler near that block that you can insert the pfe hose into and clamp down to retain the drain connection to the block.  

 

 

Hard to see in the picture but run the other coolant line into the bottom of the turbo and T into the other heater core line.  Ensure you leave some space between the exhaust manifold and the coolant hose.   You might use zip ties or something similar to hold the hoses together.

        if (ThrottlePosition < 2) {  // Idle Section
            if(turbo_rpm <= idle_rpm) { //idle rpm is 12000
             vane_position = idle_position;
             idle_walkdown_mode = false;
          } else {
            if (turbo_rpm <= idle_walkdown_rpm) { idle_walkdown_mode = true; } else { idle_walkdown_mode = false; } //walk down rpm is 20000
            if (idle_walkdown_mode) { vane_position = constrain((final_vane_position - 10),idle_position-two_cm, 800); }
            else {vane_position = min_position;} // if turbo rpm is above 20000 then it will set vanes to full open  ( min_position is full open for some reason haha)          
          }

Here you can see what I am doing when there is no throttle input.

 

In short.

 

-no throttle and turbo is below 12000 rpm it will go to about 12cm

-no throttle and turbo is above 12000 but below 20000 then it will walk from whatever the last position was to 12cm slowly to bring turbo speed down slowly

-no throttle and above 20000 rpm it will walk the turbo position towards full open.

 

The vane positions will move no faster than 1/4 cm per movement so it will "walk" to the commanded position unless turbo rpm is above 100000 in which case it will jump.   

 

That is how I am handling the full throttle to off throttle.  If turbo RPMS are high enough to not be considered idle/walkdown idle (20000) it will always increase turbo size until turbo speed drops below 20000, then it will start to walk down to 12cm

 

I wouldn't call what the turbo does a "bark"  more of a whoosh or huff.  

        if (ThrottlePosition < 2) {  // Idle Section
            if(turbo_rpm <= idle_rpm) { //idle rpm is 12000
             vane_position = idle_position;
             idle_walkdown_mode = false;
          } else {
            if (turbo_rpm <= idle_walkdown_rpm) { idle_walkdown_mode = true; } else { idle_walkdown_mode = false; } //walk down rpm is 20000
            if (idle_walkdown_mode) { vane_position = constrain((final_vane_position - 10),idle_position-two_cm, 800); }
            else {vane_position = min_position;} // if turbo rpm is above 20000 then it will set vanes to full open  ( min_position is full open for some reason haha)          
          }

Here you can see what I am doing when there is no throttle input.

In short.

-no throttle and turbo is below 12000 rpm it will go to about 12cm

-no throttle and turbo is above 12000 but below 20000 then it will walk from whatever the last position was to 12cm slowly to bring turbo speed down slowly

-no throttle and above 20000 rpm it will walk the turbo position towards full open.

The vane positions will move no faster than 1/4 cm per movement so it will "walk" to the commanded position unless turbo rpm is above 100000 in which case it will jump.

That is how I am handling the full throttle to off throttle. If turbo RPMS are high enough to not be considered idle/walkdown idle (20000) it will always increase turbo size until turbo speed drops below 20000, then it will start to walk down to 12cm

I wouldn't call what the turbo does a "bark" more of a whoosh or huff.

On my old configuration I had wrote one map that never made any noise when rapidly releasing the throttle even at max boost. The truck ran strong but the top end was lacking until I added some additional boost (32 then up to 35). For some reason with the additional boost the turbo would create a rapid chirping/whooshing noise with 3 additional PSI of boost. My current turbo and truck configuration has no chirping/whooshing or barking. Then again I do believe there are too many necessary parameters to monitor to correctly operate one of these VGT turbos.

The code is starting to get really good.  I am now seeing 35psi on a hard run without any barking. 

 

I have also cleaned up most of the off idle smoke, and cruising to wot smoke.

 

you need to know shaft speed, TPS, boost and drive to tune this turbo.

The code is starting to get really good. I am now seeing 35psi on a hard run without any barking.

I have also cleaned up most of the off idle smoke, and cruising to wot smoke.

you need to know shaft speed, TPS, boost and drive to tune this turbo.

I agree. The trick also is air density from altitude or temperature.

Thankfully I can tune the curve to the "normal" altitude and temp.  

 

 

I would love to talk with a Cummins/Holset tech about how they tune the turbo.  

On the Cummins ISX's that have the VGT turbos, I know it uses the following for controlling the turbo. 

• Intake manifold pressure 
• Intake manifold temp
• Engine load
• Exhaust back pressure (in the manifold)
• Turbo shaft speed
• Turbo compressor intake temp

 

There could be a couple others such as the TPS and fueling rate that play in as well but I'm not sure about those, and of course there are times the ECM will control the turbo/whole engine very differently than normal like when it runs a re-gen or is in engine warm-up operating mode on a cold day.

Yea I would assume they have a pretty in depth map for it.  

 

I wonder how far off base I am haha,