Hi guysI know been discussed on this site and others - but can't work out next approach.I have drawn a diagram. Attahced here.Whats the green wire for - can't find details on that anywhere and why just hanging loose - should be plugged somewhere ?Thoughts of next course of action ?

4x4..doc

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Hi guys I know been discussed on this site and others - but can't work out next approach. I have drawn a diagram. Attahced here. Whats the green wire for - can't find details on that anywhere and why just hanging loose - should be plugged somewhere ? Thoughts of next course of action ?

I was under my 98.5 today and looked at the electrical wires on the cad. My wires are not black and green they are black and black with a white stripe. I also have the black and red vacuum lines. I suspect that the green wire you have that is disconnected needs to be re-connected an it is most likely carrying the current that illuminates the light on the dash. I can't tell you where it should be connected but I would look for a stub of a green wire near it where it was perhaps cut or got broken.

I was under my 98.5 today and looked at the electrical wires on the cad. My wires are not black and green they are black and black with a white stripe. I also have the black and red vacuum lines.

I suspect that the green wire you have that is disconnected needs to be re-connected an it is most likely carrying the current that illuminates the light on the dash. I can't tell you where it should be connected but I would look for a stub of a green wire near it where it was perhaps cut or got broken.

Hey - thx - yeah I might have to go out and recheck - or there might be a difference in models. The red and black sounds teh same for vacuum --- but then the the two other wires I am pretty sure are grey and green. They run up away from the front axel/CAD up to the very top of the back of the firewall - kinda where the MAP sensor/Data link are - and the grey line then plugs into a black pvc line that runs half the length of the firewwall dash. The green wire (? no idea?) just dangles there - I couldn't see anything to plug into - but will check again tomorrow.

---------- Post added at 10:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

Found another site with similar kinda question

Someone said the green line should be

1) Should be a green line that is the vacuum vent from the transfer case

2) 4x4 cad vent line. thing on the end is a ck valve to prevent vac/suction

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/parts-these-speedo-and-lift-pump-died-t235387.html

So guessing its meant to be as it is ................ similar to the thing he's holding in PIC 3.

So now back to look up and down my vacuum lines ............

anything else to look for ? Scratch Head

Hey - thx - yeah I might have to go out and recheck - or there might be a difference in models. The red and black sounds teh same for vacuum --- but then the the two other wires I am pretty sure are grey and green. They run up away from the front axel/CAD up to the very top of the back of the firewall - kinda where the MAP sensor/Data link are - and the grey line then plugs into a black pvc line that runs half the length of the firewwall dash. The green wire (? no idea?) just dangles there - I couldn't see anything to plug into - but will check again tomorrow.

---------- Post added at 10:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

Found another site with similar kinda question

Someone said the green line should be

1) Should be a green line that is the vacuum vent from the transfer case

2) 4x4 cad vent line. thing on the end is a ck valve to prevent vac/suction

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/parts-these-speedo-and-lift-pump-died-t235387.html

So guessing its meant to be as it is ................ similar to the thing he's holding in PIC 3.

So now back to look up and down my vacuum lines ............

anything else to look for ? Scratch Head

Just a thought but have you checked the bulb in the dash?

Just a thought but have you checked the bulb in the dash?

Mwaaaaa - your gonna make me take apart the dash to get to the cluster aren't you

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/261275-diy-dash-light-bulb-replacement.html

I think I might do that last - every time I seem to play with plastic - it breaks !!! {Does anyone make a titaniuym dash ? .... hmmm }

No - the light has come on before .... just not often .... makes me think the problem is elsewhere ......... I might try and recheck the vacuum lines as well as the OHM signal to the 4x4 sensor ....................

From there if I have to do the dash/bulbs - I might change them to all BLUE -

Else - maybe somethink like a posilock or whatever

Any other ideas - people jump in ...........

---------- Post added at 07:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:28 AM ----------

Hey

so 2 more thoughts

1) Can I disconnect the 4x4 sensor on the fronmt axle - put it into 4x4 and then test for a signal from the sensore on the drive shaft/CAD - should this just send me 12 V signal ?

2) The diaghram/cad thing on the axle - what should this do when the 4x4 is engaged - should it pop down ?? It only has like 1-2cm of play. I don't see any holes in the vacuum lines ........ and still not sure what the two other lines going up to the firewall are exactly.

Thinking I need to test (1) first ................. is it that simple - enagage 4x4 .... drive 10 feet ...... disconnect the sensor and see if a 12V signal is comming from the 4x4 sensor on the axle/cad line ?

Mwaaaaa - your gonna make me take apart the dash to get to the cluster aren't you

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/261275-diy-dash-light-bulb-replacement.html

I think I might do that last - every time I seem to play with plastic - it breaks !!! {Does anyone make a titaniuym dash ? .... hmmm }

No - the light has come on before .... just not often .... makes me think the problem is elsewhere ......... I might try and recheck the vacuum lines as well as the OHM signal to the 4x4 sensor ....................

From there if I have to do the dash/bulbs - I might change them to all BLUE -

Else - maybe somethink like a posilock or whatever

Any other ideas - people jump in ...........

---------- Post added at 07:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:28 AM ----------

Hey

so 2 more thoughts

1) Can I disconnect the 4x4 sensor on the fronmt axle - put it into 4x4 and then test for a signal from the sensore on the drive shaft/CAD - should this just send me 12 V signal ?

2) The diaghram/cad thing on the axle - what should this do when the 4x4 is engaged - should it pop down ?? It only has like 1-2cm of play. I don't see any holes in the vacuum lines ........ and still not sure what the two other lines going up to the firewall are exactly.

Thinking I need to test (1) first ................. is it that simple - enagage 4x4 .... drive 10 feet ...... disconnect the sensor and see if a 12V signal is comming from the 4x4 sensor on the axle/cad line ?

OK here is what I would do to check the wiring.

Disconnect the plug at the CAD.

Hookup a jumper wire to the contacts to mimic the CAD indicator switch being closed.

Get in the truck and turn on the ignition.

If the 4wd light comes on the switch is at fault or the CAD arm isn't moving enough to close the switch.

If the 4wd light stays off the problem is in the wiring or the bulb.

Let us know what you find.

Jim

OK here is what I would do to check the wiring. Disconnect the plug at the CAD. Hookup a jumper wire to the contacts to mimic the CAD indicator switch being closed. Get in the truck and turn on the ignition. If the 4wd light comes on the switch is at fault or the CAD arm isn't moving enough to close the switch. If the 4wd light stays off the problem is in the wiring or the bulb. Let us know what you find. Jim

Hey jim - cool - was thinking something similar - what do you mean by a jumper wire though ? Want to make sure it fits right etc Can I also test for voltage comming out of each side of the plug - assuming ones +ve and ones ground(-ve) ? thanks m8

Hey jim - cool - was thinking something similar - what do you mean by a jumper wire though ? Want to make sure it fits right etc Can I also test for voltage comming out of each side of the plug - assuming ones +ve and ones ground(-ve) ? thanks m8

Jumper wires are real technical and real expensive you know $2,000 to $3,000. Ive got one I'll sell you for $1,000 used but in great shape. :lmao::lol: Just connect the contacts on the plug together with some copper wire to transfer the current from the posative + to the negative -. Sure you can test for voltage at the plug if you have a volt meter but if the light works why bother.

sweet I wasn't sure if I could just stick the coppper guages wire into the plug/receptacle or if I had to buy some sort of adapter to get a good bite I'll send you a check - in the mail I'm real bad at math though - so I rounded the $1000.0000 so it would fit on the print Who :Pay JimPayment: $000.0001For:JumperWire and technical phone/internet support thanks dude john

HeyokSo I did what you said and the light comes on fine. So - if my 4x4 is working fine (which I determined by I had to use it 2-3 times to get out of ice driveway 2 months ago)(and I had to put into 4H to get up a steep slippery gravel road)(and it 'locks' on hard turn if in 4x4 on rdriveway) then assuming its not the light, I have a good 12V (confirmed with multimeter) etc So - whats left ? The sensor ?? If its that - where do I get to replace and cost ? Could it be anything else ? thanks guys (also starting a new thread on kind of the reverse jumper wire for a/c issue - will post here for reference if you can look at that 1 too) - thx

You will probably have to get the switch from dodge. If you call or go in and call it a sensor they won't know what you are talking about. call it a switch.The only other possible thing I can think of would be that the fork inside the unit that moves and engages the axles together isn't moving quite far enough to close the switch. So take the switch off of the CAD and test it with an ohm meter pushing the button on it that the fork would press on to see if it has continuity when closed.If the switch works then it's probably just a matter of adjusting the switch (if it's adjustable) in far enough to work.If it's not adjustable then you may have to disassemble the cad to see what is wrong that it isn't turning on the switch.Test the switch I'm betting it is shot.

Nice ! I think that all makes sense and I can go from there - you rock Yeah - I never know the technical term -> switch/sensor - plus I'm an aussie so sometimes that doesn't help SASQCH -> can you check out other post (only as its related to the jump wire - but this time I guess with 12V supply ?) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1610-a-c-airconditioning-compressor-not-engaging-warm-air specifically - wondering how I get a 12V signal to the switch on the compressor to see if it starts (or if its dead) ? Kinda of thereverse of what I had to do hear as this was just closing the circuit on the wire harness to test the light on the a/c I actually need to send 12V to the switch to see if it starts - two connectors in switch

[quote=JOHNFAK;11201

Yeah - I never know the technical term -> switch/sensor - plus I'm an aussie so sometimes that doesn't help

Sensors Monitor thing like pressure and temperature and send the info to a gauge. switches turn things on and off like a light in the dash or an ac compressor clutch. There can be temperature switches and sensors same as oil if the temp or pressure gets too high or low the switch turns on a warning light.

makes sense - got it