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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

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So I've started to notice that in the morning my truck has hard a little harder time starting. By harder time I mean, just cranks a little longer then it typically would. We haven't had to cold of mornings (high 30's low 40's) but it used to be 1 second or less and it'd fire up. This morning it was 3-4 seconds and then she fired up. I did just change some things with the Smarty so the battery was on for a little longer then normal before actually cranking but this isn't the first time it's happened. My driveway is at an incline so engine bay is slightly higher then the tank. So I'm wondering...

 

Could it be batteries? Before starts my needle is juuuuust above the lowest marker on the battery gauge

Intake heater no working properly? I have noticed more white smoke then usual on cold start ups

Fuel leak? Haven't seen any spots in the driveway, and the system definitely primes once the key gets to 'ON' typically see 5-10psi needle jump

 

So what do ya guys got?!

 

 

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  • Alright well just wanted to update you guys on where I stand now with this. The problem is no longer present. I've been parking uphill in my driveway and been having normal cranking time, although I h

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  • Author

Yea that's pretty much what I did and ended up close to the same price as you in parts, but with my inexperience and taking the time to do it right, it put me well over the time/money for the custom cables. Still not cheap though! 

  • Author

It'd be for my 02, I see what your saying now though. I misread your first post. I thought it was an entire block off block eliminating the stock fuel filter. 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

OK so seems like whatever I thought I fixed earlier did not fix it! Now I have to crank at least 5seconds or so on each start after sitting for 12+ hours parked up hill. Seems like I need to start replacing o-rings and such.

 

Should I just start with getting replacements for the banjo on the back of the head and all the o-rings/gaskets at the 'T' and go from there? Anything else I'm missing?

  • Author

After looking through the parts diagram I realized something. I'm not using the stock fuel filter, just running 1/2in straight from the FASS to the VP. Should I have capped something off in the stock fuel filter area or anything? Just wondering if that's actually what's causing my hard starting issues because I looked at parts and the grommets for the 'T' fitting are 13 bucks a piece!! Trying to avoid that if possible!

I would either cap the inlet and outlet, or remove the filter housing just to prevent dirt getting in it, but I don't think that could be your problem...

  • Author

Yea I went out and looked at it in the truck and the parts diagram doesn't do a very good job at describing exactly how it is under there. Right now my old sending line is disconnected and running straight to the stock fuel filter canister. Nothing is connecting it to my current fuel setup so it's not causing the problem.

 

I did reach in and crank down the fittings at the 'T' and they snugged up a bit so I'll see if that fixes anything.

4 hours ago, notlimah said:

After looking through the parts diagram I realized something. I'm not using the stock fuel filter, just running 1/2in straight from the FASS to the VP. Should I have capped something off in the stock fuel filter area or anything? Just wondering if that's actually what's causing my hard starting issues because I looked at parts and the grommets for the 'T' fitting are 13 bucks a piece!! Trying to avoid that if possible!

 I dont think I paid that much for the pack of 3. Pretty sure it was Cummins part i bought. 

  • Author

Hmmm did you get it online? 

 

Also how'd you get in there to install them. Just trying to tighten them down was a sob!

On battery cables, to avoid shortening the stock cables to add a new end, you can just melt the old end off with a torch.

 

Also avoid soldering the ends on,  if there is somehow a bad connection it can melt the solder and let the cable dangle, which with a dual battery system, may not turn out well.

 

And yes, the VP's really like to be turned over quick, jumping them in the cold is a PITA.

  • Author

Thanks for the advice. I ordered new cables from custom battery cables, just waiting to get them installed. 

11 hours ago, notlimah said:

Hmmm did you get it online? 

 

Also how'd you get in there to install them. Just trying to tighten them down was a sob!

I bought mine from a diesel repair place that sold Cummins parts somewhere in Tennessee. The part # is 04429451. A quick search turned them up but would appear that they do want $11.50 for one of them. I dont remember paying the much for mine but it was about 7 years ago. But I do usually remember when I pay way to much for something and that price seems excessive considering what the part is. If you could figure out the OD and ID you could make one I would think. It is just a piece of tubing that acts like a compression sleeve.

 

As far as the install, it is just a pain to get to. Contortionism and some profanity are required skills. How much of either is up to the installer.

  • Author

Yea that price seems way off but that's what I saw as well. I'll have to look into it a little more and see if I can find a more reasonable price or just what size they are and find a cheaper alternative. Either way they did tighten down a bit so I'll see if that was the problem. 

Dont forget the line on the back of the head. The rubber on it gets hard. When I took mine of it looked and felt like a plain washer the rubber was so hard. 

  • Author

Yea I was going to replace that as well but that one is priced at a more reasonable 2 dollars or so.

 

Does that line just come out of the head once the banjo is loosened? Then you can slide the new gasket on there?

It's just like the supply and return banjos at the VP44. Bolt head, washer, line, washer, sealing surface of head. 

  • Author

That's what I figured. That should be the same part for the back of thof head, but it seems too big for the fittings at the T

The sealing washer wont work on the tee. Change out the the washers on the head and see if that stops the hard starting. The tee might be ok since you tightened it.

  • Author

So I talked to the dealership today after I picked up my truck. I got the banjo bolt fittings, 4 bucks each! He said that the fittings for the 'T' came in a pack of 3, but had to be sold individually at 15 bucks a piece!! :mad: I can't believe these things are that expensive! Hopefully the banjo bolt fittings are the problem.

Did you buy the fittings or just the sealing washers? The fittings should be fine it is the washers that go bad. Not saying a fitting cant fail but not likely. Cummins sells the grommets for the tee. Maybe they have a better price that the dealer. 

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.