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Posted

Hey all,

Looking at this pic, which do I need to adjust, the fender or the door? You can't see from this angle, but the fender also stick out past the door slightly. Yes I know I have rust that needs fixed lol debating wether to fix or replace the fender.

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  • Buzzinhalfdozen
    Buzzinhalfdozen

    I would say the door is off. You can adjust them some by loosening the door to hinge bolts (not the hinge to body bolts) but be warned they can be a royal pain to align. To get all the gaps right and

  • Check your hinges, that looks like mine before I rebuilt the hinge pins and bushing.

  • most auto part stores have hinge pin sets. You have to support the door and grind off the top of the pin with a dremel and knock it out  the bottom and if the bushing are still there get them out, rep

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  • Author

Thanks for all the help everyone! Mike, I did try readjusting the striker pin and got it so the door operates ok, but overall the fit is still wrong. My biggest issue, is that when I move the door out and up, so that the body lines up, the door will not close all the way. Something in the hinge area holds it out about 1/2-3/4 of an inch at the back and the interior light switch is not pressed. I checked for sagging on both doors and I do not get any movement out of the hinges, so pins/bushings are not the issue here. 

  • Owner

Be aware the direction your sliding on the hinge. The trick I do is loosen just enough you can use a rubber hammer to tap the door in the direction you want without it falling on it own. I typically remove the striker pin so you test close the door to get the hinge lined up. Then once it shuts right then you can reinstall the striker pin and adjust for center of the notch and inward enough to pull the door closed against the seal without slamming. 

 

Remember the adjustment will move in/out and up/down as well in the closed position. 

 

Yeah, I've worked in a body shop for about 2 years and I've got basic understanding of body work.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

  • Author

Yes I was test closing the door by just opening the rear door. Unfortunately I have no experience with body work so this is somewhat frustrating to say the least lol

Leatherman,

 

After some of your thoughts Friday, I paid attention to my doors.  The drivers door will stop "easily" closing about 1/2" before latching.  (passenger does not at the moment....) 

 

What is causing it is the Foam trapezoidal piece at the base of the A-pillar.  (center screw through foam)   I just took some paper and laid it in the jam in different spots until it pinched. 

 

If that is the case in your truck you will notice it hits a curved part of the door inner structure, so a slight movement in the door will make a dramatic change in the spring pressure of the foam.   If you get the door right, adjust the foam a bit.   (I am thinking this foam is for an auto open feature, or a way to load the door against the hinge a bit so it won't rattle.  You can see that it is not for sealing the door or anything like that.)

 

HTH

 

Hag

 

 

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.