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Haggar

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Everything posted by Haggar

  1. if the main latch works, the rods are ok. you need to look closely at your cable. (the inside latch pulls the cable to work the latch.) notice where the cable end attaches to the latch. (circled in red) is it broken. This is the most common failure. The cable housing becomes loose, so when you pull the cable, you lose stroke of the cable because the cable housing moves also. I just fixed these on my 99 F 250. (it looks like the cable ends for fixing a ford will work on these trucks too, but cannot confirm) Pull the lower door panel and work the inside latch and see what is wonky. GL HTH Hag here is a video of the latch working and the trouble this guy had, which was a loose pivot.
  2. This is their website: https://www.fixinrams.com/ Gould Gear is their company name. Give them a call. they are in Western North Carolina. Super friendly people. HTH Hag
  3. All turbo vehicles should have a timer.... Because few humans have the proper discipline to treat their equipment properly. Be the oil in your turbo as you have pulled off the interstate pulling a load and hit the fuel island and slam her off. Think about it. Turbo is really hot and you just cut it off. What we did was stop the oil pump from pushing cool oil through the turbo. By allowing the truck to idle for a period of time, the temperatures in the turbo come down quickly. If we could run the oil pump for a bit longer, the engine would not have to run. In fact there was a pretty popular oil accumulator that did this. When running the accumulator filled up. When you shut the vehicle off, the accumulator would push the oil through the turbo bearings for about a minute after shutdown. (I think the oil temps were too hard on the bladder so it didn't stick around....) Oil begins to change when in the 300 to 400 degree range. When you shut off without cooling, you run the risk of trapped oil going beyond this range. Does it matter? Depends on if you want your turbo to last 100k or 500k. While I was in the army, all of our turbo equipped vehicles had stickers on the dash saying that all vehicles will idle 5 minutes before being turned off. This was the same on the dozers and loaders, as well as the 2 1/2 and 5 ton trucks. If they had a turbo they had the time to idle. No turbo, no prescribed time to idle. I don't have a turbo timer, but I always idle my vehicle until the egt has gone below 200F. Agreed that is exhaust temp not turbo temp. I hope that is long enough to knock some temperature out of the turbo. I do notice on humid days it takes longer to cool off than dry days. Have not scienced that out yet.... Hag
  4. Ski, That is how my brother's VP died. It took us quite awhile to determine that it was the VP. No codes. We swapped ECM between my truck and his (both '01) problem stayed with his truck. The problem was when engine was cold, there would be no/little throttle response. As the engine temperature increased (or fake engine temperature using heat gun on the vp) it would begin to run normally. So we took the jump, ordered at VP from DAP and it has run normally since then. Something in the VP was bad. My hunch was the circuit board that drives the pump internally had resistances that changed as it warmed up. Possibly cracked solders that were open/high resistance cold, but made contact hot. Really don't know actual cause. GL HTH Hag
  5. DT, A lot of "death wobble" is caster related. Look at your control arms and bushings closely. Max out the length of the lower control arm. (since caster is not adjustable, the only thing we can do is rotate the axle) GL HTH Hag
  6. Exactly. The 70u and 80 set actual clearances for pinion (no "crush sleeve" bs). pinion nut torque just needs to be high to prevent loosening. or lock tite hint hint. during set up you just shim to get zero axial movement on the pinion to get backlash and pattern right. When those are correct, you remove the proper amount of shim and tighten till you can tighten no more. or tighten reasonably with red locktite. (yes use the first set of bearings to make sure the bearing cups are seated fully.... sucks to get that far then it all moves just a bit) Other than case spreading, the 80 is the easiest I set up except for an early dana 60 that had the adjustable carrier bearing holders.... (it was in a 70's plymouth) you just turned these parts and it moved the carrier left and right. after pattern was set, you turned each a (half turn?) tight to get preload....it was awesome. If you had the pinion depth tools, you could set that rear end up in one pass. no putting together, checking, disassembling, moving shims, putting together, rinse repeat ad nauseum. Hag
  7. Evan, Just rebuild it. IF you can't find a complete rear, just yank it apart and rebuild. It goes easy. just heavy. The only special tool is a good case spreader (and a dial indicator and magnetic stand but everyone should have those). (you can do it without a case spreader, but you do not get the proper pre-load on the carrier bearings so they will fail sooner but it will be years). Purchase one extra set of bearings (or just the cones really). Use a flap wheel to open up the ID of the bearings so they slip on. This way you can easily slide the bearings on and off to move shims around to get clearances and contact pattern exactly correct. If you know what you are doing it will take a Saturday. If you are unsure and need to double check everything and think about it a lot and are unsure it will take a weekend and a week of evenings. It still takes me a week of evenings.... Next time I do it I will drop the axle out of the truck. I think I would overall be faster. The differential at full suspension droop has the carrier rolling out the back of the housing making it harder to get that heavy sucker in. HTH Hag
  8. Wes, I am sure a couple others that know will chime in. The long blocks are basically identical. It comes into needing to move things like Cam sensor (i think your 02 has) and the 99 block does not (nor provision for) so swapping things like timing cover housing etc. It's not a drop in replacement, but good pre planning will get you going just fine. Think of it this way. the long blocks are the same. All the electronics need to be what the 02 had. So you list out and change everything to do with the electronics from the 02 to the 99 long block. HTH Hag
  9. It is true that the pump is the spindle. But they (cummins engineers) reduced the radial clearance around the pump gear so that it could not easily leave mesh. Go slow. Make a mark and make sure it is turning while you turn the crank. It was designed such that it won't bounce out of mesh while us gorillas monkey around with a pump, BUT you will have the leverage with the crank to roll it out of mesh. Like I said go slow make sure it turns and doesn't get into a bind. GL HTH Hag
  10. I would think that would happen with pressure in the tank. Take your fuel cap off and see if the issue stops. Once it starts it may siphon and keep running. make sure the end of the stock line is higher than the top of the tank to prevent siphon. GL HTH Hag
  11. Leaky, yes bearings used to come in sets. Tapered rollers were always available separately too though. (It has to do with their design. Proper clearances are set during assembly so the surfaces just need to be good) It is really amazing, but the newer manufacturing processes allow "matching" of bearings just from their normal stock. The bearings are manufactured just that much more closely to their design numbers. I have had to learn to adjust. Amazingly though I have not had obvious issues with high speed spindle bearings that used to come in "matched sets" but now just come individually. The manufacturing tolerances are just that much better. Tapered rollers have also suffered from stocking issues. 1 cone part number can be used with 3 to 7 different cups. I can stock 1 cone part number (buying 10 at a time) and 2 each of the cups that work with it, and have less capital invested in stock that may or may not move quickly. I can keep that in a smaller area too. HTH Hag
  12. according to the earlier schematic, it is the Junction Block, but interior fuse panel seems good too. Hag
  13. These pieces are designed to give a non-adjustable camber/caster front end like ours adjustable camber/caster. So yes they are eccentric and you will want to figure out exactly which way to put them back. This video should help you out! GL HTH
  14. To find your sloppyness, you have to get someone to wiggle the steering wheel for you. You will begin checking in this order: 1) Steering shaft to steering box. put your hand on the shaft. watch the person turning the wheel. the shaft should react EXACTLY like the input. (the two things you looking for here is/are the rag joint (about midway to the steering box under the hood. and the input to the steering box. The input you just have to watch and make sure. the rag joint you can use two hands (one above and one below) it should move EXACTLY the same. 2) Steering box output shaft (the shaft the pitman arm connects to.) Have the person audibly tell you which way they are steering. Make sure you note when they say going back to left to see if there is a delay in the new directional movement. 3) Pitman arm drag link connection. put your hand around this joint. close your eyes and feel. As the box changes direction do both parts move EXACTLY the same or does one part move a bit before the other? Does the draglink rotate before it begins moving? Our truck are notorious for the steering gearbox to get loose and need tightening. I have personally had the pitman arm draglink connection go bad a couple times..... (there were two different taper lengths used. It could be someone didn't notice and put the wrong combination together and it doesn't tighten properly. Lay under the truck while the person wiggles the steering. Everything should move together and the wheels should try to turn immediately. Watch for the item that doesn't move EXACTLY with the other items. GL HTH Hag
  15. Yes, Provide ground to sender threads. I played with large ring connectors and such. Sometimes they work fine, sometimes not (npt threads don't end up in same place all the time etc. I also got away with soldering it to the the brass tee and then screwing the sender into it. Then grounding that wire. sometimes you can find tees and elbows (made for plumbing) that have a tab with a hole (to mount to a wall stud) that would allow you to bolt the ground to the fitting without drilling and tapping. GL HTH Hag
  16. There is no adjustment in the switch. It screws in. It is possible that the bushings in the linkage or like you said bent shift lever. Here is the adjustment procedure. GL HTH Hag
  17. Guys, remember the outlet check (the 14psi when FULLY OPEN) is not fully closed at zero PSI. It has a bleed through. It is a variable restriction, but not a "check" It will flow with 0.0 psi differential (ok you can;t have flow at zero differential it's in the definition, but think of the smallest differential you can imagine...). Pull yours out and test it. Hag
  18. W-T I think post running circulation would make a big difference. The stanadyne on the GM 6.5 had a similar issue.. The fuel valve solenoid gets hot. I have a good friend that I have been bouncing this around with. He has been watching some of the European videos where they are going in and replacing the driver chips. (remember I am mechanical so may not be correct on the proper electrical terminology) He said that the drivers seem to be very small and fragile looking. It may be worth some time to improve cooling. Hag
  19. Pressure test the system while cold. That will tell you if you have a gross leak somewhere. Mine loses coolant only at certain temperatures from the passenger side front headgasket. I never see it wet. It does not leak cold (will hold 16 psi cold for hours) but I can see the dried coolant from that corner. I have to add about a quart a month. HTH Hag
  20. When in reverse trying to back up the weight, does the engine freely spool up or does it try to stall? If the engine rpm increase with no gain in speed, the clutch is slipping or the torque converter is not converting. If you stall you don't have enough torque to perform the maneuver. HTH Hag
  21. Guy, The switch on the transfer case could be bad. It is where the electrical switch is on a GM, ours is just vacuum. When you select 4 hi or low, vacuum is supplied to the black line to the cad (also called axle shift motor). The red line should have vacuum only in 2wd. I wonder if your valve is bad or something so that the vacuum does not get there in 4 low. You may need to play with it a bit, because it is a detent, if you are not putting the lever in the right spot it may be wonky.
  22. Do what you can to help the lower control arms be a bit longer. This helps with our fixed caster on the 4wd vehicles. GL Hag
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