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Haggar

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Haggar last won the day on August 13 2018

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  1. Here is where I ground the flat on my adapter for the Borgeson
  2. Haggar

    4x4 Troubleshooting

    Dave, Take a look at this post here. (this is a DHD yours may be a DLD or some other, but they all work similarly. You only need to know exactly what you have when you go to get parts.) Well it is one of two things.... No chain or no dogs. (or broken fork...) look at the exploded view. Notice that there are two forks 51 and 54 one is range and one is mode. I think your range fork is working (you get high and low) , but your mode fork is not. It could be that the fork pin 53 is now missing. (fork just slides on the shaft) this is rare. The more common failure is the pads 49 and 50 are gone. there is just not enough stroke to engage the synchronizer sleeve 29, to engage the drive sprocket 20. You are going to have to split the case to see what your problem is... it is not in the tailshaft section. I agree usually a chain will ball up in an area too small for it and cause catastrophic damage. I imagine it is possible to break and go to a safe spot. I am betting the mode fork is your culprit. GL HTH Hag
  3. not all trucks came with fog lights. Pretty sure the bumper is exactly the same, but the plastic pieces that bolt into the rectangular holes is different. Looks like LNJ was the code for "with foglights"
  4. Haggar

    4x4 Troubleshooting

    Dave, since you get the 4wd light on the dash, the actuator is moving. (notice the 4wd light switch is at the end of the stroke of the actuator.) the actuator moved, but did the collar move is our question. Put the front axle on on jack stands. (I assume you have an Auto truck, so put it into neutral.) Idle the truck (so you have vacuum) (or supply the vacuum yourself with a hand pump. <--- I like to do it this way so i don't have to listen to all the rattling...) put truck into 4 hi or lo (transmission still in neutral.) prevent the TC output shaft or input to the front differential from turning. (you can do this with a pry bar in the universal joint somewhere) Spin the left front tire by hand. The right front should spin the opposite direction. take the transfer case and shift it out of 4wd to neutral or 2 wd. Spin the left front tire. the right front should not move. (it is no longer connected to the differential) If the above works fine.... Problem is most likely in TC, but you can check it out. (try by hand first, but you can do this with engine running and a friend watching.) Jack up the rears to match front. put TC in 4wd put trans in neutral. turn the FRONT drive shaft (axle to the TC) the rear drive shaft should try to turn. If you have a buddy, you can do it with the engine on. In the 4wd modes. the front TC output should turn in 2 wd on the rear should turn. (idle is fine you don't need much) There are shift fork dogs that go bad in the tc (you coulda wadded up the chain but that usually is catastrophic and externally visible) I don't think ours has a clutch in it (some of the later model gms do) or there could be gear problems in the planetary, but I think you would HEAR that.... GL HTH Hag
  5. Dobber, Check out the Apps. Make sure it is not the problem. Try a different ECM. (I was able to swap my brother's and mine to confirm it wasn't the ECM) This is a failure mode of the VP. My brother's died this way. No codes ever. But when cold it was dead pedal. If you let the truck warm up, it would run normally. VPs really rarely fail this way, but it does happen. Our mental model of the problem is a cracked solder in the wiring to the fuel metering solenoid. Fuel volume is not increased as the apps increases voltage. (the crack in the solder closes with the thermal expansion of the pump. allowing it to begin working normally.) There appears to be no confirmation programming (and therefor set a code). In most gas cars there are some lines of code that relate TPS voltage and engine speed. (this is usually in the Idle speed control circuit, but i am seeing it more in other areas) but the code uses a bit of logic: my commanded engine speed is increasing, but the actual engine speed is not increasing. Hope you find your troubles! GL Hag
  6. Ronnie, I hope they come off for you... they can be a pain!!! You may want to try a little bit of heat too, if you have a heat gun (or just a hair dryer.) this also may help working some penetrating oil in there. In the old days of US cars, the wipers had a center bolt. So you could use a special puller (like a gear puller) to get the suckers off..... Hey just think, this (the new clipped slip ons) saved a good 3 minutes per vehicle during manufacturing!!!! It doesn't matter that it is a nightmare for you now! Hag
  7. Ronnie, I have had them stuck before too.... Spray a bit of penetrating lubricant in there. With the lock in the out position, I use some small pry bars, and slowly and carefully put some upward pressure on each side of the wiper arm. Wiggle, pry, wiggle pry, spray more oil. Eventually it will slide off. Some of the issue is the wiper arm is to one side, so when you try to pull, you make a rotating movement and the splines don't want to separate. The trick is even parallel pressure. HTH GL Hag
  8. Ronnie, The wipers SHOULD stay powered until it trips the park switch. So something is wrong there... I have not played with the chrysler wiper motors, but the GMs you could get into and see how the park switch worked and test it out. I see you are in UK, so i am guessing a new wiper motor is not an easy trip to the autoparts store. Be careful. The diagram I attached is a 2001. The wire colors may be wrong, but I think you could use it to test your system. you will at least be able to see if you are getting the proper 12v signals on the high and low commands. GL HTH Hag
  9. No worries it is cold as the dickens here, and we are the sunny south! I put a description of where your trouble may be if that light stays on bright. Take a peek at it when you get a chance. Hope we can solve it. l8r Hag
  10. Ronnie, I have attached the electrical diagrams from a 2001 for the wipers. Most likely it is your multi function switch. But it could be the CTM too. There is a good diagnostic chart in the manual also. Here is a description of the operation: • Continuous Wipe Modes - The two-speed wiper motor and the internal circuitry of the multifunction switch work in concert to provide two continuous wipe cycles, low speed or high speed. • Intermittent Wipe Mode - The internal circuitry of the multi-function switch, the CTM, and the wiper relay work in concert to provide an intermittent wipe mode with multiple delay interval selections. On models with a high-line or premium CTM,the CTM also automatically adjusts each manually selected delay interval to compensate for vehicle speed. All of the power comes from fuse 6 in the panel by your driver door (called the junction block) So if any part works the whole system has the potential to work. When you turn them off do they just stop or do they go back to proper position. (this would tell us if the park switch is working.) Its odd that you lost low speed too. The power for low speed (and high speed) is a direct signal from the multifunction switch. red/yel and brown/white feed low and high speed directly ignoring the CTM. The park switch in the wiper motor is an important part. I think the CTM will never reset without seeing the park switch. Hope this helps GL Hag 2001 FSM Ram 8w-53-2.pdf 2001 FSM Ram 8w-53-3.pdf
  11. Grrrr, that kinda takes out a switch problem.... Ok Since S183 also controls the relay and the FOG LAMP INDICATOR.... Does the indicator flicker also or does it stay on solid like they are working, but the fogs themselves go out? (this isn't a perfect indicator as it could be an LED... but it is shown as an incandescent so it should dim with voltage fluctuations) If it flickers... look for a problem in S183. If it stays on solid the problem is between the PDC and the lights themselves.....so we follow the Black yellow wire (that went into the Relay on terminal 87 and comes out of the relay on terminal 30 it is now LB (which I assume is Light Blue) This light blue wire will go to a splice S110 (but this is NOT our problem if the indicator light stays bright.) To connector C105 . The book says C105 is at the rear of the front bumper. no picture. (it should be close to the mounting bolts. This is a connector so the bumper assembly could be installed easily. )C105 is just a 2 wire connector with a light blue and Red orange wires in it. The red orange wire is your constant hot from the fuse G. The light blue is your ground we are following. It goes to S134. According to the manual it is a T/O the right fog lamp. I think this means that it is a tap off the right fog lamp. so at the right fog lamp you will have 2 light blue wires one of which goes to the connector C105 and the other goes to the left fog lamp. (if both of the fogs go wonkee its probably not here it looks like C105 is the issue. BUT it could be the doubled light blues in the right connector also not making good contact to each other.) Hope that helps Hag
  12. Marcus, we gotta get you reading wiring diagrams..... (open up the one I attached I will walk you through it) The PDC ground is G100, G101 and G102. Those are located under the battery on the driver's side. The ground wire goes from the fender to the PDC and is split to the different circuits by Joint Connector #1. BUT THIS is NOT what you want. (if you are still looking for your fog lights wonkiness...) Ground G201 is the main ground for the headlight SYSTEM. If your other lights work ok, it is not that ground that is the problem. The ground passes through your headlamp switch in its OWN connector called C2. The ground then goes through C134. This is a huge connector that connects the dash wiring harness to the harness going to the rest of the truck. (I can send a picture of that if you need. But you can find it in the manual by looking in the connector location chart. That is probably not the problem but we can come back to it if needed) The wire then goes to the PDC and is part of a splice called S183. I don't know what this looks like, but I am betting it is three BRown/Yellow wires twisted together. (Joint connectors seem to have terminals, Splices seem to have just bare wires twisted together....) I would try disconnecting headlight switch connector C2. I would put a jumper in the connector and see if your fog lights work normally. This would prove if it is just a switch problem. If they still work poorly, I would then take the PDC apart and look for the spice S183 to see if the wires have separated. GL HTH Hag 2001 FSM Ram 8w-50-10.pdf
  13. Stanley, When I put my case halves back together I use an anaerobic sealer. They are usually very thin and don't harden if exposed to oxygen. so any that squeezes into the case won't turn into a lump. I use the loctite 515, but I am certain there is a permatex version also. HTH Hag
  14. Haggar

    Constant brake issues

    digi, The FSM has both the gas and diesel in different sections. Send a Private message to Mopar1973man. I think he may have what you need. HTH Hag
  15. Bullet, I have a bit of experience, but not behind a Cummins. Ford Super Duty with detroit. Loved it. BUT you must drive carefully. It was my friend's and he had it a bit hopped up. I had to be careful with the skinny pedal in the rain. It would spin easily (and i didn't drive it enough to learn when the power came on) and i would find myself going sideways but I could control it. (never had trouble now that i think about it unless it was raining...) Suburbasaurus (plural) and other GM trucks i had had the gov lock (aka timex bomb). This is GMs version of the Detroit. I love those, BUT you have to again pay attention to the skinny pedal and its application. Low traction situations will allow the one wheel to spin until it locks, then depending on traction, you will either go forward or sideways. A couple passing situations on painted surfaces allowed one wheel to spin, lock the axle, and elicited a counter steer to keep the vehicle velocity vector to stay straight. The nice thing is usually removal of the input allows it to unlock and there are no problems with trailing throttle over-steer (which is easy to have with a spool). With our torque, you won't want to slam the skinny. lightly spin until it engages, then hammer it. That is the way you have to drive the gov lock, otherwise you get the timex bomb. hth Hag
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