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Haggar last won the day on March 22

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  1. lol AH I gotta split a hair. Torque overcomes drag. Horsepower is purely the rate at which torque is applied..... I'll buy the beer But after reading this, the next thing I would double check, is the pyrometer accurate? HTH Hag
  2. looks like: the top bolt is chrysler 05011421AA (no description) the bottom bolt is chrysler part number 04429637 M12x1.75px0.35
  3. Drip, That's it if the valves were open. To the gulag with you!!! (you have not reached "off with your head" level yet.) Both have to be closed. When you want to add some juice , only open low side and watch the sight glass, should be bubbles not all liquid. (yeah low side theory says you could add liquid, but I am totally paranoid) (don't even consider adding high side with the small cans, I don't think they can take the pressure! You will be approaching the "off with your head" level there though... ) Cheers Hag
  4. Rip, I wonder if your gauge set is starting to mess up..... There should be no way for you to nearly have high side pressures on the low side....... That is wrong on so many levels.... especially when you say that there is still cooling going on. (ambient to 55 is some cooling...) (if there was no expansion device, there would be very little pressure difference between suction pressure and discharge pressure, but there would be NO cooling.) A plugged expansion device gives you high high side and low low side pressures...... 80 static doesn't sound bad. Double check the gauge set that both valves are closed. remove the yellow hose, (or at least depress the schrader) and see if you have pressure there. there should be NO pressure on the yellow hose when both valves are closed. (though both gauges should read their respective line pressures.) Hag
  5. I think you are stating you still use one of the original push on or quick connects in the system? If you do, slap some wheel bearing grease on there, and see if you problem disappears for a few days...... If it does there is your issue. my truck insta starts if it has not drained back. It takes between 7 and 10 seconds of constant cranking when it does drain back. HTH Hag
  6. Sorry work has been busy. Here is the schematic of the splice for the grounds for the 5v sensor circuit. Dripley has a picture of this. Now this is an 01 FSM. Dripley is certain his 02 is similar to this, but the oil pressure sensor does not require this ground and is not part of this diagram. but as far as we can tell all the other sensors are like this drawing implies. ( the Fiat guys could have tricked us again though.... I swear its an Italian plot ) Dripley has a picture of the splice location in the harness. This splice is definitely right where you banged around messing with a lift pump. GL HTH Hag 2001 FSM Ram 8W-70-7.pdf
  7. The combination of your errors. (5v sensor supply too high, boost sensor range/performance, apps low input) just screams wiring or one of the sensors on the 5v rail. When you clear the codes, how quickly do they return? do they all come on together? diesel won't hurt the ECM.. We have all dumped fuel there. But the wiring connection to your ecm could be dirty. I would disconnect it and clean it very well with electrical contact cleaner. Inspect all of the pins for corrosion. I use a dielectric grease when I re-assemble to displace air and hopefully keep moisture out. Your issue really sounds like one of the sensors on the 5v rail has perished. (its an expensive part, but the map sensor seems to cause all kinds of problems like this when it buys the farm) just my $0.02 HTH Hag
  8. That's a great point. If you install your snubber that close to the vp, it could see flow. I chose to install it near the sensor, so other than bleeding it will never see flow, only pressure. So it would be a function of where you installed it. Thanks! Hag
  9. Mike, Unless you have a leak, there is no flow on this line. I expect that some of my fuel from 5 years ago is in this line. The only change in that line is due to thermal expansion and pulsing. I suspect that the pressure sensor moves maybe 0.005" total travel. That line is stagnant after you do the first bleed. Most people probably don't bleed the line, so it is probably actually trapped air near the sensor. This is not a bad thing, just would make the response a tad more spongy, but that is probably never noticed with the damping in the gauge. If rust or solids tried to move down the line, it would stop in the lowest place since there isn't enough flow in the line to be carried by fluid velocity, and most of the contaminants are heavier in density than the diesel, so they don't float up the line. Hag
  10. Sorry I don't like the ISSpro snubber. They don't tell you any of the relevant information. (and the price is a BIT excessive....) Look up Gauge vibration Dampers in McMaster Carr. Pick one with the smallest orifice size, in the pipe thread you need. (I took a quick snip of the page from them below.) (I used 1/8 in NPT 0.004". I did go with the stainless, but I don't know that that is completely necessary.) I didn't get the filter disc. I used the plain hole. I figured if my fuel filtering goofed up that bad, I was going to have to clean more than an orifice. I have an 18" hose from the VP to the snubber to the pressure sensor. That's it. ( I have to confess, I use grease gun hose. Have been for years, but a bunch of womenfolk get their panties in a wad when they hear that. somehow grease doesn't have lubricating oils in them or something and so they fall apart on the inside like they do on my grease gun all the time...) HTH Hag
  11. B, Sorry I didn't get online over the weekend. You tested Pin 11 in reference to what? If the ecm was disconnected and you were check ohms on Pin 11 of the harness, where did you put the other lead? I have attached the S165 splice page from the 2001 FSM. to get any real resistance information on the wires connected to Pin 11, you would need to disconnect the ECM and ALLof these connectors at the same time. You would then stay connected to pin 11 at the ecm connector, and probe each one of the grounds at each connector. You would also stay connected to Pin 11 and check for continuity to the chassis, to any other system in the truck (especially battery positive). With both ends of these wires disconnected, they should not be touching anything else in the truck. HTH, I will try and watch this thread more closely! Have a great day Hag 2001 FSM Ram 8W-70-7.pdf (edit: it merged my threads so this was a thought a few minutes and a cup of coffee later...) Just got to thinking, What I don't like is that you checked with the sensors connected. (or what did you actually check) If you checked pin 11 to pin 21, you should not have read zero ohm. you should have read the resistance of the water in fuel signal sensor. If you checked the Pin 11 to pin 14, you should have read the resistance of the coolant temperature. etc. Also keep in mind, pin 11 sensor ground may not have a path to battery ground. it may be a complete separate system. you can double check this with the spare ecm. check the pin 11 ON THE ECM to the case of the ECM for continuity. (I am a bad lawyer, I am asking a question that I do not already know the answer to. I have not checked this out.) But I suspect that sensor ground and truck chassis ground have nothing to do with each other. Hag
  12. Haggar


  13. B, Man you need to start a new thread if you need help. You need to explain exactly what you are testing. Most of our sensors are only 5v. They never see 12v. (The PCM or ECM creates a very specific 5 vdc source for communication of sensors to the ECM and PCM.) So, you may not have the problem that you think you have. Good Luck! Hag
  14. Parts manual shows it as: Seal, master cylinder to booster Dodge 04723395 (item 6)
  15. Blind holes are a pain to drill. (no where for the chips to go. harder to measure that the depth was properly met. diameter measurements are harder) ALSO Alignment pins into blind holes cause problems. The trapped air can prevent the pin from fully seating (and if the press is too loose, the pin can compress the air, then fire itself across the shop...) also debris can be in the bottom of the hole and not easily seen, so the part that is supposed to be aligned may not make down to the surface properly. I will always try to have at least a small through hole for a pin and larger for tapped holes for chip/debris clearance. HTH Hag
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