Haggar

I LOVE the manual stall prevention. I never slip my clutch with an empty truck. I can just let it out fully in second gear then add fuel. I can do this with my big trailer attached. Only when I add the skid steer do I need to start in 1st gear but I use the same process, let clutch out fully before adding fuel. With 2wd LOW in reverse, it is same thing, no clutch slipping during backing, just let clutch out. If I am backing up a hill, after clutch is out, I may have to add some fuel, but flat backing, the idle control is the perfect speed. Welcome back! Hag

Reaper, I don't know for a fact that the hoses will, but I really suspect they will. I would find a gasser in a pull apart, grab the whole shebang and see. These hoses are all on the low pressure side (return side) so it really does not take much. GL Hag

One thing I got to looking at, it seems a LOT of the gas powered rams got a power steering cooler. I replicated one on my truck with the oil cooler from a SuperDuty (lol post 7.3 fords ARE good for something...)

I suggest find a new alignment shop. But if you want to give them a chance again, ask them why they can't use the slots provide by the factory? There could be damage to the frame or control arms that have these maxxed out. But to suggest ball joint correction at this point is kind of odd. (They should have informed you that there was damage to prevent them getting to the proper adjustment within the factory limits the last time they looked at it.) HTH Hag

It is not an interference fit, but the center hole should not be so large as to allow the bolts to be in shear. For Sh%^S and giggles let us say that the hub receiving hole is .005" larger in diameter than the hub going in. The bolt holes have .025" (or more) of clearance all around. (Just looked it up, Metric standard is for through hole is 1.5mm larger (0.059") than the fastener.) The hub will engage the knuckle and the bolt holes' clearance will reduce to 0.020" (on one side) and increase to 0.030" on the other. You will be fine. HTH Hag F

For boost connection, I like the port between 7(map sensor) and 10 (intake air temp) or the port to the left of the map. I think it is 3/4" npt plug in there. Just get an adapter from 3/4" to whatever fitting your boost gauge tubing is (usually 1/8 or 1/4 npt) GL HTH Hag

Frame and crossmember are on a taper (from the top down). That is why it won't just drop out. Both of the above suggestions work to remove it. The taper is why you have to do it that way. HTH Hag

your fronts are definitely 6x9. the rears always seem to fit funny for me. but the selector is showing a lot of 6 1/2" compatable rounds. Use the "outfit my car option." in most cases it is correct or says there might be a problem. This link might work for you. It was last setup for an '01 quad cab without bose system. https://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/All-Car-Speakers.html?l=C&pg=2 hope that helps Hag

lol Infinity (not bose sorry)... only one of my trucks had that. the way to tell is if you have small speakers in the A-pillar like dripley said. It uses some small powered cross overs in the front speakers. They can be unwired and a normal system with a passive crossover can be used. If yours does not have that it is pretty straight forward. The original unit is a 1.5 Din high. That is why you end up with an adapter plate. (most replacement units are 1 Din high) If you want look through the list and send me a message I can try to help explain t

Thanks for getting me to look into this. (sorry it wasn't your front lines.... that is so much easier...) All my trucks have the 4wheel. I didn't realize the 2wabs had sortof a little "brain" too. Item 2 is a pressure limit. I agree it should work like an accumulator. The rear level valve is pretty stupid, but GM and Ford did it for years too. My 86 suburbasaurus had it too.... I think since it is a rotary valve, as it closes off the flow, it increases in volume a bit to reduce pressure on the rear wheel cylinders. (so they don't stay

015, I use crutchfield. They always send the faceplate and wiring harness for easy installation. Here is the page for the kenwoods. (wow a lot are out of stock) Start the website over and select your vehicle. I don't know if you have the upgraded stereo (with Bose speakers.) If you do I can help you figure it out. look at each of these and the different features. (the main differences are going to be android or apple and whether you want a CD player and such. https://www.crutchfield.com/g_462150/Bluetooth-Car-Stereos.html?tp=72310#&

Sorry, I thought you got past your front brake dragging. My suggestion, change the hose to that caliper. If you want to try and prove it, jump in the truck (off is fine, running is better) Jam on the brakes like you are about to get in an accident. Run to the front caliper you suspect (or have a buddy do it, just do it after you have released the brake pedal) (you can have the wheels turned to it is easy to get to the bleeder and have your wrench hanging there.) and open the bleeder. If it squirts out (like there was residual pressure) you need a new hose. (it won't squirt m

J, What does your ABS system look like? Does it look like this? The valve (item 6) "looks at" your rear ride height and allows rear brakes or not based on that height. Yours could be out of adjustment, making your rear brakes not work. So all your stopping is on the front brakes. Have you tried to bleed your rear brakes? Sometimes the problem will really show up then, very little flow. When this is working properly, during normal riding rear brakes work normally. if you jam on the brakes and the nose dives and the rear lifts, flow to the brakes is b

I only use kenwood now. The price/longevity are great. I have a couple kenwoods that are more than 15years old. The only reason I can see to need to change them, some of them were built before bluetooth, usb etc. My boys get flustered that they can't plug in their phone in and have to listen to the radio or CD's. (luckily, their taste in music is similar to mine so they just complain that there are only 20 songs or so on the disc.... lol) HTH Hag

T'man, Here you go. I think everything is covered here. at about 10:45 mark is where he starts talking and showing the internal vane pump. The excess flow from the vane pump is returned to the inlet of the vane. At the 15 minute or so mark he is showing the lift pump flow and return.