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Haggar last won the day on August 13

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  1. Mike, I have been pondering this for a few days. There is no true explanation for "why now". The load of the grids doesn't go directly to the alternator. It is buffered by the batteries. Yes the alternator has to eventually recharge that, but it doesn't go bananas. (or just as bananas as your starter which pulls more...) What you/we might be seeing is the reduced quality of some of the electrical components..... I am seeing it a lot in capacitors... They just are not the quality that they used to be. I am somewhat seeing it in resistors also. They just won't carry their rated load for any extended period of time. (though they used to...) I don't know the manufacturing process for diodes. But if the same manufacturing process and materials changes are similar in those to what has happened to capacitors and resistors, it might be this problem. Just my thoughts, no proof (on the diodes anyway... capacitors I can show you many examples...) Hag
  2. The stock check valve does have a small bypass. HTH, Hag
  3. External pumps. I know NASCAR used an external pump and cooler for the rear differentials. (I am guessing most of the offroad racing and endurance type racing are using it) I know before the race, they ran heaters to bring the differential oil to running temperature (and engine and transmission oil too) The cold fluid's thicker viscosity sucked too much horsepower to heat up to be competitive. In the Datsun we raced in SCCA, for enduros, we had to watch transmission and rear differential temperatures, but the class we ran in didn't allow us to run extra coolers for those items. So it comes down to "how hard do you push it?" Just monitor your temps, and if in your "normal" situations you are getting close or going to hot, the first thing to try to add is more oil capacity. this will extend the time before you get too hot. If that doesn't give you enough cushion, add dedicated cooling to the system you have.
  4. I always use distilled water. Our county water has a high level of chlorine added. (kinda messes up the avoid chlorides part) and our well water has a lot of sulphur (messes up the avoid sulfates part....) and other heavy metals and minerals. so I am better off using distilled and watching Ph. Hag
  5. 015, I use foxit reader pdf printer. (I don't use adobe acrobat or a built in browser plug in to view pdfs.) (it is the orangish /yellowish version. the purple is a payed subscription but has tons of features) this gives me the flexibility to send pdf pages to a printer or just as easily to a file as a pdf. The foxit pdf reader i am using is the free version, so I miss a lot of the options of being able to edit them and such. If you do it often or have need for it, it is a great way to do it. I backed into it through work mainly. Our tech manuals for the equipment we produce, I make a manual for the customer. I keep copies of all of those by serial number. So in a couple years when the customer calls and asks a question or emails, I can grab the exact page from their manual and send it back to them. If i need to circle something in it, or draw a red arrow to point to where a possible problem is, I open it up in foxit, but then use the snipping tool (on all windows 7 and newer machines by default) that will take a "photo" of what is on your screen and save it as a Jpeg. I can edit the Jpeg with paint and resave it with my edits on it. HTH Hag
  6. I agree it is odd. They are not really related on the ground side..... They share the same fuse, but radio and other obvious stuff shares it. The only thing they share is C203 a connector after joint connector 5. HTH Hag 2001 FSM Ram 8W-12-14.pdf
  7. take a peek at these. 2001 FSM 2001 FSM Ram 8W-15-16.pdf 2001 FSM Ram 8W-44-4.pdf 2001 FSM Ram 8W-62-2.pdf
  8. Mike, In my manual on 8w-44-4 the center dome lamp is shown as using G201. (same ground for the headlamp switch. center dome goes through the headlight switch on the ground side.) On page 8w-62-2 for the power mirrors, it uses G300 (left lower cowl. inside the cab by your left foot) (mirror defrost uses the G201 ground......) the G 300 is also appears that the ground for the door locks and windows. hope that helps. Hag
  9. Definitely the fronts in ours are Dana 60s. Our rears depended on transmission and 3/4 ton or 1 ton. Automatic 3/4 tons got the Dana 70-2U. Standard transmission 3/4 tons and all 1 tons got the Dana 80. Do take this with a grain of salt as some things could have been replaced and sometimes things just don't follow the rules. It is Highly possible if you clean the webbing towards the drive shaft on the carrier casting, you will see the model number cast there. HTH Hag EDIT: Dana 60 and Dana 70 use the same rear cover! don't let that fool you. Some internal parts are the same (carrier bearing IIRC) but the pinion bearings are different and the ring and pinion are larger IIRC.
  10. Ahhh I got ya. If this is a correct cross section, Unless you need to know the end play of the dark blue short shaft (reverse) in the lower right, you can get all you know with tail housing on. (it looks like you have to properly pre-set that reverse shaft before you assemble the tail housing on to begin with....) I also found a TDR write up of a rebuild (very limited) and attached it. Hag TDR64_RebuildingTheNV5600(1).pdf
  11. Haggar

    steering and brake

    It sounds like your vacuum pump may not be turning your power steering pump. (there is a drive coupling that connects the two.) Give these guys a call. They are in Murphy NC. (I was thinkin' it was closer to you, but it is not.) still a great fellow to talk to about these situations. https://www.fixinrams.com/ HTH GL Hag
  12. Stanley, I am not sure I can help much, never done a 5600. But any time I measure endplay (mainly crankshaft thrust) I use a dial probe or test indicator directly on the end of the shaft, on a magnetic base connected to the case (in my case the block). I then use a nice sized pry bar and push the shaft relative to the block in both directions. I set zero on one direction and directly read endplay. For counter shaft (if you cannot get to the end of the shaft ie trapped bearings.) I use a dial TEST indicator, and use the side of a gear. Here are a couple pictures of the difference but the Test indicator is very nice to help you reach into limited clearance areas, but still see movement. from the mitutoyo website probe type From mitutoyo website test type or "finger" type hope that helps! Hag
  13. hmmm, I wonder if I remember an earlier discussion.....(the mind is a terrible thing to lose... if you see mine, let me know please...) I do remember trying to find what the ACTUAL installed diameter range of the bushing should be, and what the yoke ACTUAL dimensional tolerances are so I could calculate the actual bushing clearance.... but alas those are hard numbers to find. Do keep in mind, the bushing is a press fit. So if your clearance uninstalled is the same as what you have, it will be tighter when the new one is installed. It also may be worth a check that the tail shaft is not upside down. There is a drain hole that should be on the bottom, draining the area between the bushing and the seal. Hope you figure it out DF! Hag
  14. Greenlee, I would say it is the output bearing is beginning to fail, or the yoke is not round/correct size anymore. You may be able to correct both. The schematic seems to show that the rear support is pretty easily replaced. I am not seeing a bearing in the schematic from the FSM. It appears the 2wd rear housing comes off easily and you could look at the problem. The manual also notes a rubber spline seal. this would keep the fluid from creeping through the splines in the yoke. (possibly the 2wd tailshaft extension housing has a bushing ala the TC tailshaft? DF, The tailshaft on the 4wd has a bushing in it. As that bushing wears it will not control the yoke properly and the seal will be damaged. This is a picture I had when I needed to get a new tail shaft. (there were two different casting numbers but both worked ok) HTH Hag
  15. Haggar

    Hydro boost reseal

    I am pretty sure that is the accumulator charging check valve. Here is a picture of where it is located. I have never had mine out so I don't know that part behind it. I am unsure of the direction it is installed. HTH Hag