Haggar

My '53 Sunbeam had the letter "B" on the the hood release.... Took me awhile to figure out it meant bonnet. lol of course the turn signals were little flags that stuck out from the fenders.... whitworth threads.... plumbing on the outside of the house so it is easy to fix when it freezes, carburetors made by plumbers... and Lucas the prince of darkness.... I understand why the UK loves beer. and once you get in the right frame of mind, it all makes perfect sense! CHeers!! Hag

If were gonna slip on moral pants here, it should go both ways. What is wrong with the coatings that the NHTSA is forcing the OEM to apply to the headlight lenses that they (headlight covers) yellow out so quickly? It has to be a stupid regulation. Do your tail lights yellow that quickly? Do any of your other clear plastic covers yellow that quickly? No they don't. SO somewhere along the way, there is a regulation that these headlight covers get this crazy chemical applied to them. (I am betting it has to do with not making sharp shards, so that a pedestrian is not injured or somethin

Wil, Just make sure you have some of the "tamper proof" torx bits. (they are the torx with the pin hole in the middle) you will need them to take out the multifunction switch. HTH Hag

I removed the front timing cover breather. I probably have more blow by than most, so the front of the engine stayed a bit dirtier. The worst was it would collect on the alternator. Don't know why. It just constantly looked like my alternator had an oil leak. so I moved it. routed the new lifter cover vent into the driver's side frame rail. It will never rust out. Hag

I installed an earlier Cummins tappet cover with the vent. I did it because I had a broken gasket and needed to be in there anyway. It takes some time to do. The stock lift pump bracket must be modified. (this bracket also covers the p-pump version mechanical fuel pump hole) So gaskets need to be made etc. Personally I like it. But it is not just a quick change. I also used the earlier version washers to hold it in place. I think I would have been better served using the newer washers. (our later washers are much thinner.) I ended up having to go back and re-t

just remember to get all the cardboard out.... I would put a half cardboard on a chevy I had. It slipped perfectly between the condenser and the radiator.... I guess it fell in a bit far for me to see and I forgot to pull it. nearing summer I was running hot and infrared gun showed only half of my radiator was cool, the other hot. (one would think this woulda sparked some brain activity..... but nooooo) So bad radiator.... I was so mad when I got the old radiator out..... Don't pull a Haggar. lol Hag

I think you should try to isolate the winching battery from the alternator. When you start winching, it will pull amps from where it can get them. If for some stupid reason (or the batteries are too dead) it will start pulling directly from the alternator. (I have my dump trailer set up with a relay that disconnects the truck aux power that charges the battery. when I power the dump up, it disconnects the truck aux) The best set up I did on most of my 4xs was add a battery with diode isolation. It would charge the extra battery but would not creep back and direct

Don, you were the fellow that got shafted with a toe and go.... Like trouble said look for looseness in the rear suspension. because they did a toe and go, they didn't check your thrust angle. If you can repeatably accelerate and see movement that you don't see off throttle or decel, you are getting some rear steering. Don't forget the basics though. Tire size and pressure on the rear. is your rear sway bar doing something wonky....(it should only work in the vertical,but if the knuckles are seized etc. GL Hope you find it! Hag

Don, Have you had it to an alignment shop yet (and not just a toe and go place but a good shop)? It sounds like your thrust angle is way off. Your rear end could be not perpendicular. Try a quick measurement. Measure the wheel base on the driver's side and compare it to the wheel base on the passenger side. I am pretty certain on these trucks these should be equal. GL HTH Hag

blue, You don't have to cut the rod. You can disassemble it where the shaft is peened around the ball. you just have to make some tools to hold the shaft. If it is not leaking at the input rod, just let that slide. The last one I did, was leaking at the output, so I didn't spend the time on the input rod seal. It may bite me later, but working fine right now. GL Hag

if not working during test, the bulb is bad. check there. GL HTH Hag

Agreed they are basically the same. Differences fall in 2 places (not including accumulator pressure, which is designated by anodized color) input rod and output rod lengths. I have noticed a difference of the boots that go near the firewall as a difference between my GM version and my dodge version (could be a year thing, not necessarily a end user spec), but that would have not prevented the use, just sealing around the hole in the firewall. Hag

The bolts are probably rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing in the control arm. Use never-seize liberally!!!! And Don, being in Idaho, depending on the salt, you may need to keep protecting those joints with something yearly, I think I see Eric on south main auto using some kind of waxy spray?.... GL Hag

great! Glad it worked out. Sorry some alignment shops are "toe and go". You just have to avoid them. Hag

Blue, Keep the one you have now (if it is not too late) and check the rod that pushes the master cylinder. Like Nissacs said it sounds too long. It will take you a few minutes to measure, you gotta reach in to depths and relate that dimension to the actual mounting surface.... but once you work it out you should be able to tell if it is actuating the brakes. GL HTH Hag