My daughters civic started pinging under acceleration.  No codes but I changed the knock sensor and it improved but didn't stop it completely.  I tried to check the base timing but you need to turn off the computer control of the timing by using a jumper wire.  When I put the jumper in it doesn't change the timing so I'm not sure how to check it. Any ideas or is there a good Honda forum to check?  Thanks

drain the diesel out of it and fill it up with gas lol..................sorry couldn't help myself.

If I remember correctly, you plug in the jumper to a blue plug in the passenger kick panel by the ECU. You will get a check engine light showing your connection is good when you start it. If the CEL doesn't come on check the connection again. Hook up your timing light and on the right side of the motor on the timing belt cover there is a slotted V. Hook up the timing light to plug #1 (far right, closest to the timing belt cover. Start the car, pull the trigger and watch for the red mark to be right in the middle of the V. If it is off, loosen the 3 bolts on the distributor and advance or retard the timing by rotating the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise then tighten. Unplug jumper and you are good to go!  While you are under their replace your spark plugs with NGK type R plugs. They are the only ones to put in a Honda. 

16 hours ago, Wild and Free said:

drain the diesel out of it and fill it up with gas lol..................sorry couldn't help myself.

I bet if I drained the gas out and filled it with diesel the spark knock would go away

 

xmtysonxm, that's how I tried to check the timing, but nothing happened at first. After I moved the wires around, the check engine light came on and the ABS light started flashing and I wasn't sure if that was normal.  I will retry it this weekend, thanks

I was able to check the timing but couldn't get it set where it should be.  It's still a few degrees off.  Is it possible the balancer is bad and turned a little?  I know that is possible on some balancers but not sure if it can on these

3 hours ago, moostang said:

Is it possible the balancer is bad and turned a little?  I know that is possible on some balancers but not sure if it can on these

   Yes, they do go bad.  They usually first start slipping when you start the engine and over time get worse until the outer pulley comes off. 

   To test; with the timing light note where the timing mark is or make your own mark.  Now stop and restart the engine and quickly rev it up idle back down then shut the engine off, do this a few times.  Recheck your timing mark.  If it moved you have a bad balancer if not then you have other problems like cam timing off.  

   If you need to remove the balancer there is a special tool you'll need to counter hold the crank shaft and  O'Reilly will lend it to you for free.

Thanks for the info.  I will try that and see.  The timing belt was changed before I got it, could it be a tooth off and not cause any other problems? 

   I have seen cam timing off a tooth and the engine run great but the exhaust hydrocarbons are very high.  I've also seen where an engine has no power and/or runs rough with high exhaust emissions.   If the cam timing is off more than 2 teeth and it is an interference head then there is a chance of valve damage.  

Well I ended up with a water pump leak so I replaced the pump, timing belt, tensioner, balancer, oil pan gasket, engine mount, spark plugs, and distributor O-ring ( all from rock auto).  I still can't get the base timing right on.  It's still a few degrees off.  It does run better, the plugs were worn pretty good.  Could there be an issue with the distributor?

Does the timing move, advance/retard, when you insert the jumper into the blue connector and move the ignition distributor?  Is the timing now to far advanced or retarded?  Does the engine still ping under acceleration?