The steering gear on my 96' 2500 4x4 has a lot of play in it and leaks quite a bit. The steering shaft has a decent amount of  lateral play so it either needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The biggest issue with rebuilding it is finding a kit that has bearings/bushings and not just seals. 

North Dakota not Utah.

I'm going to order a box from Bluetop tomorrow 

Funny... I stopped in a tire shop in Boise, Idaho to have my tires rotated and rebalanced. The tire shop did a full front end inspection. Wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and trackbar. The shop tech was very surprised that the front end was still tight and absolutely no issues that they could find at 273k miles and rolling. Steering box wise still tight and doing very well. 

 

So... When you do get the new box make sure to completely flush the system before removing the old steering box. Last thing you want is debris from the system contaminating the new box and start the ball rolling for constant issues on steering and hydraulic issues.

14 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

So... When you do get the new box make sure to completely flush the system before removing the old steering box. Last thing you want is debris from the system contaminating the new box and start the ball rolling for constant issues on steering and hydraulic issues.

 

When one removes the lines from the gear the entire system is pretty much dry after it drains out including the brake booster as it syphons the system out completely since this is the lowest point in the system.

IIRC on my 05 to fill the system up from completely empty takes just shy of 2 quarts.

Edited October 26, 20168 yr by Wild and Free

Wouldn't hurt to shoot a couple blasts if compressed air backwards through the hydrobooster while everything is apart. Just incase....

After seeing how dirty my system was, I would still flush very well prior to adding any new parts. Just my $.02

           You can put a filter in the return line also.

 

Most of the pumps have a small screen built into them behind either the return or pressure side can't remember right off.

@Mopar1973Man I'm replacing the pump too, it's been run low on fluid so many times that I don't trust it. 

 

@leathermaneod I don't have hydroboost.

 

@IBMobile What type of filter are you using?

Go here

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/53_axles-suspension-brakes/adding-inline-power-steering-filter-with-system-flush-r486/

10 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Go here

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/53_axles-suspension-brakes/adding-inline-power-steering-filter-with-system-flush-r486/

Thanks!

 

What type of fluid should I run in the new box, ATF +4 or regular power steering fluid? 

Edited October 27, 20168 yr by The_Hammer

The Factory Service Manual  calls for ATF+4 and that's what I use.

39 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

The Factory Service Manual  calls for ATF+4 and that's what I use.

 

I'll be doing the same, thanks ?

2003 and up to current is ATF+4

 

1989 to 2002 is all power steering fluid.

 

Right out of the FSM...

CAUTION: Use MOPAR Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid
and do not overfill.

 

Edited October 27, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

Mea culpa.    Thanks for the correction.  I had read that the fsm said atf +4 for power steering and had assumed it covered all years.  I'm going to be flushing the atf out of my PS this coming week.

Got the steering box and pump put on today. The truck drives better than it ever has and I'm not leaving a trail of fluid everywhere I go lol. I filled the system with power steering fluid as per the FSM information that Michael posted.

 

Now it's on to the next problem, a throttle linkage ball joint that pops off with the slightest touch. 

Edited October 30, 20168 yr by The_Hammer