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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

New Member 99

Posted

Thanks for adding me to your fourm! 

First pic is what's left of my 99 2500, 4x4, 24 valve Cummins auto tranny ride. My son was not hurt fortunately, but drunk driver with suspended license had no insurance of course. Typical Coal Region mentality.  Knocked the rear end right out from underneath the truck. Engine is still good with 160,000 miles and serviced regularly. Pretty much stock. 5" exhaust, BHAF, Fass Fuel Pump!

      Second pick is a 99, 3500 dually 4x4 with manually tranny. No engine, but was as also a 24 valve. Not many engine parts come with. 

Would like any input on what to do with my engine before I install it in 3500. Such as new seals, gaskets, increasing horsepower  ( only for towing) not extremely. 

Also do I need any computer changes?

We have a very good Cummins repair shop near me and they have always done good work and been very fair to me. But to save money what work should I do on my own and what should I leave to the pros? 

I'm not a diesel genius, but I am pretty handy, when i'm not in that "Oh, f... it mood...lol

Thanks for the info. 

 

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Edited by lagerdad
Pics are in reverse order I mentioned in my thread

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  • Hawkez
    Hawkez

    I'm not the expert, but with the engine out I would replace the rubber washers on the fuel return line at the back of the head and the T fittings.  I would also consider pulling the injectors and havi

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I'm not the expert, but with the engine out I would replace the rubber washers on the fuel return line at the back of the head and the T fittings.  I would also consider pulling the injectors and having them pop tested or replaced.  You could do all of this while the motor is in the truck, but it would be easier before the install.

    • Like 1
    • Owner
    18 hours ago, lagerdad said:

    Also do I need any computer changes?

    Make sure to transfer both PCM and ECM as a pair. Makes sure to take the donor wiring as well. 

     

    18 hours ago, lagerdad said:

    Would like any input on what to do with my engine before I install it in 3500.

    Reseal everything while the engine is out. Inspect everything for damage or wear.

     

    18 hours ago, lagerdad said:

    increasing horsepower  ( only for towing)

     

    I would suggest just RV275 or +50HP injectors for towing and Quadzilla. At nearly 17,000 GCW (RV) didn't take much to make the frame twist and the tires break loose at about 400 HP at the flywheel. Even when I was way up to around 25,000 to 26,000 GCW hauling hay still the same story it would arch up and the tires would break free if you got to deep into the throttle. 

     

    I'm going up trying a HX35/40 turbo and a set of DAP SAC +75HP injectors (7x0.0085)

    Edited by Mopar1973Man

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    Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.