OK, I know I have a tranny problem, when I first back out of the garage in reverse, then I shift to drive and get a crunch, then the engine stalls due to a total lock up. Is this the torque converter or something in the tranny? I have no unusual noises so far. It has only done this on 2 occasions in about 2 weeks. I have the 5RF or what ever 5 speed auto, same tranny that is used with a Hemi.

I'm going to assume its trans related for sure. But what is odd is it backs up fine shift ot drive and get a "Crunch" noise and die... I wonder if a clutch pack is no releasing... (Guessin') If it was a TQ Conv I would figure it would cause it an either R or Drive... So my vote is on the trans... Time to drop the pan and see if there is debris in the pan...

I posted it here as well, MrMopar who is a mechanic for Mopar dealer, seems to think converter as well? http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=53321&p=595080#p595080

Ok if its it is a TQ Conv thing... Then you could try something fire it up place the trans in Neutral and let it warm up a bit. This will pump the TQ conv full of fluid... But the funny part is the TQ conv has no direct connection on the input shaft so if the TQ conv was to drain down some it won't move forward or reverse properly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_Convertor As for the "crunch noise" problem that occurs between shifts is what bugs me more.

Ok if its it is a TQ Conv thing... Then you could try something fire it up place the trans in Neutral and let it warm up a bit. This will pump the TQ conv full of fluid...

But the funny part is the TQ conv has no direct connection on the input shaft so if the TQ conv was to drain down some it won't move forward or reverse properly.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_Convertor

As for the "crunch noise" problem that occurs between shifts is what bugs me more.

The crunch is the sound of things binding and stalling a diesel engine. I am sure it would not be as noticeable with a gasser. I agree, the TQ is not drained, because it goes into reverse fine, but some times I need to wait, it is a bug with these Jeeps. Actually the TQ used in these Jeeps are known to be very week. Chrysler now has a Euro model that is very stout.

Here is another good explanation, MrMopar has been very helpful with us CRD owners.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=595120#p595120

---------- Post added 06-06-2010 at 09:37 AM ---------- Previous post was 06-05-2010 at 07:50 PM ----------

Well, thats it, I am getting the Euro TQ, and going for the GDE TCM flash while the Jeep is in my shop getting the transplant. It is a busy time of the year for me to do this, but I should be able to squeeze in a few hours at a time to do it.

Good luck on the TQ conv change...

Good luck on the TQ conv change...

Thanks, I already tore it part of the way down. At this point I need to remove the crossmember and take a couple of bolts out of the upper bell housing.

So I got the Libby all back together and I am very pleased with it so far after the big 10 to 15 minute ride Well, I was covered in grease and tired, but I must say, the drive line feels alot firmer now. At 45 MPH I am running 1400 RPMS, and at 55 with out going any faster, I am running at 1600 RPMS. It has more of a truck feel to it now, because the engine is working at much lower RPMS. I was just wondering how low in RPMS it is safe to run this engine at, you have to factor in lower oil pressure and hammering the rod bearings, but I guess it should be OK, because it is in a very light load at 1400 RPM. I always try to keep my Cummins at 1600 RPM minimum. GDE had a very good write up for the TC change procedure, http://www.greendieselengineering.com/forum/posts/list/37.page#672 although I added a short cut, and had a set back. I skipped removing the fan blade to allow access to the flywheel bolt and turned the engine at the flywheel starter gear with a screwdriver. The set back was, the tab to the tranny dip stick that is bolted the to the upper bolt got stuck between the engine and tranny bell housing I did not know this until most of the bolts were snugged, in the future I would put the dip stick tube back in after the tranny is bolted back to the engine. I will give more updates after I drive the Jeep for a while. My transmission jack was a 2 1/2 ton floor jack with a 2' 2X8 fastened to it.