Hi everyone as I'm relatively new to this I would like to say thanks for the add I have been researching on making a standalone controller for my 351 vgt I was going the lilbb route but the website no longer works you can't buy anything and cannot register to ask in their forum and I seen the write-up in this form which is very detailed and thorough but my main question is has anyone done it here that still runs it and did you run lbb's box or build your own? I'm looking for the breadboard to build the lbbs box cause I have everything to solder it into it

Breaking it down, 

U = Chip quality/grade

A = Automotive temperature range

U = Chip format, in this case, Umax size, 3x3mm with 8 or 10 leads

B = Lead count, 10 or 64

(+) = lead free

(/V) = automotive qualified quality control

T = furnished as a tape reel for pick and place machines

 

 

The 9924 only comes in the Umax format you used.

 

If you go back to the data sheet, you can see the variations on the chip in the first page.

 

The chip suffixes can be decoded on maxims website here.

https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/packaging/package-information/maxim-naming-conventions.html

Awesome that makes sense I appreciate you taking the time to do the write up 

Hey so I'm having trouble now identifying what pot sensor I have and finding a wiring schematic for it I bought the one in the writeup on here it's a 9 pin pot sensor I understand how a three pin one works but I cannot find anything online about the nine pin and I'm unsure how to wire the ground return and ground up I understand the 5v sensor return and ground (like a3 wire pot) but the extra six pins with wiring the ground and ground return is confusing without no schematic.

Nevermind i figured it out!

Hey so im having trouble with the code i could not get the 1.11 code to upload to my arduino i had a buddy of mine look at it and we concluded that the command (i know the terminology is wrong but i cant think of it right now) Wire/Wire.h was why i wouldnt verify/upload so we edited it to Wire.h Will this affect the operation of the system?

I was able to try the actuator out with the turbo reset code it seems to work i have the actuator off the turbo right now but it will power up and rotate one way for a little bit then go the other way til you cut power im assuming that is correct and itll position itself correctly when the actuator is on the turbo. I have a feeling something isn't right for the main code 1.11 to run the turbo only because if i try and use the poteniometer the actuator wont respond same with the EB switch any insight would be appreciated i have checked my wiring again just to be sure and it is correct and i wont be able to know for sure til i get all my sensors and harness installed in the truck to try and do the real test im just trying to test as much as i can at the moment so when the time comes to install it everything will be ready to go!

Also nothing show on the lcd display

Post the error.  The code is ~5 years old at this point.  There is no telling if all the related libraries still work in the same way.

Arduino: 1.8.13 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Uno"
A_HE351Mainfreq_TPS:47:10: fatal error: Wire/Wire.h: No such file or directory
 #include <Wire/Wire.h>
          ^~~~~~~~~~~~~
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Wire/Wire.h: No such file or directory

This report would have more information with 
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
 

When i had a friend of mine look at it he concluded that the Wire/Wire.h wasnt a library so he edited it to the Wire.h cause thats a pre installed library in the IDE program and the code would verify and upload from there but I think from editing that messed with the whole code but i know nothing about to to be sure i ordered some potentiometers and will use them to do a bench test of all the sensors but to my limited understanding i would think that the pot sensor would still work (the pot that will be installed in the truck) with out the other "sensor values present" i assume the Can Bus and Arduino Uno are fine because when i download the turbo reset code the actuator will respond to it.

One thing worth mentioning is when i downloaded the turbo reset code i had to switch the can bus pin from pin 10 to pin 9 before it would work.

 

Heres a quick reference of the turbo reset code that has to deal with the different pins

 

#include <SPI.h>
#include <can.h>
#include <Wire.h>  

#define mode NORMAL // define CAN mode
#define bitrate 250 // define CAN speed (bitrate)
MCP CAN1 (10);  //****This might be any pin 9 / 10 / 11  depending on the cnabus shield.  Adjust to fit your needs

My memory is hazy, but wire.h runs the screen interface for ic2  It is needed without a doubt.

When i edit the code from Wire/Wire,h to Wire.h the code will verify and upload but nothing will happen ie. i cannot get the pot sensor to respond and i did check the wiring to be sure it was correct and the lcd screen will illuminate but not show anything do you think the can bus pin has anything to do with it? I know i had no response outta the reset code til i edited the can pin from 10 to 9 you had it in your notes that it could be pin 9 10 or 11 and 9 worked for me.

the pin you assign in the code needs to match the pin you setup on your wiring.   there can be conflicts between pins 9 , 10, 11 between various shields so you will need to make sure you are not using A. the wrong pin for can message B. a duplicate pin between your shields

 

I dont really remember this all too well anymore, but look at the spec sheets for your shields and verify that the pins you are attempting to use will work.

 

The code will have to be adjusted to match what you have.

ok ill look into i i just was looking through an old thread (when you were first building the controller) and i seen where you helped someone out that had the same issue im having what i found is the can shield default cs pin was set to 9 you have to cut and solder to get pin 10 i just did that and it works! i do have to look into it more ill start with what you said because my lcd screen sill wont show anything and the pot sensor dosent seem to move the actuator gear very far but it does respond though!

8 hours ago, Varrieablefirstgen said:

Just an update on the controller I found that the pot switch is in d2 and the code was for d7 so I changed it out and it's good! I found out why the lcd wasn't working the dimmer on the back of it was turned all the way down hopefully soon I'll be able to put it on the truck and test it out I have a question though if I hook up everything but the tps sensor would the program still work (It just wouldn't be as efficient with that sensor value input) right?

 

The reason is that certain1st gen parts are almost impossible to find so until I can find a tps bracket I cant run the sensor but I would like to try and install everything else

 

been awhile, but I think I used TPS to tell me how heavy I was in the throttle and add a buffer to the position.  it prob also does something for the EB and idle state.   

 

you would have to search the code for all references to the TPS reading.

If you get around to it i would appreciate it! if not no big deal, im going to hook it up eventually but I gotta find the bracket first but I was wondering what are some ideas you have for mounting/containing the arduino and shields? And the LCD screen too? 

I would comment out the TPS stuff, or set the TPS read to %50 manually.     

 

I didn't have a dash in my old truck so I just taped it there.

Ok sounds good! 

On 1/25/2021 at 5:41 PM, Varrieablefirstgen said:

 

Another question I have is how did you regulate the voltage / current to the Arduino once it's installed in the truck?

I dont think I did, I just ran 12v ignation from the truck to a barrel connector and plugged it in. 

Ok I wasn't sure if the 13.5 to 14 volts from the alternator would be too much

I think the arduino has it's own regulator because it is a 5v system.