Just got my Quad, and have a few questions, forgive me if I say something stupid. After a whole lot of reading on this site a couple of things are making me look for answers.

First, it seems to me that I need to add timing because my injectors are DAP 7x.009 and popped @ 320 bar. My question here is I know that as they wear, they will drop in pressure. Has anyone worked out a table based on mileage/hours of when to start taking that advance out?

Second, what is fairly simple, can I just tap into my existing gauges for the fuel pressure and pyro to the Quad?

 

Again, sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, but I like to understand what and why I'm supposed to be doing something and not just because someone said so. Kind of weird for someone who spent 24 years in the Army, right?

 

Mark

 

I do my timing based on oil temperature and engine load. Optimal timing the engine oil will be 30 degrees cooler than coolant. Even running 200 degree 6.7L thermostat I'm right at 172 to 175 degrees engine oil temperature.

 

No you can no share sensors. You must install second sensors for both EGTs and fuel pressure. This will skew the actual numbers if you do share.

How does the oil temp relate to timing exaclty? Mike, you/I talked on the phone a week or so ago about my economy tune. I'm a lot closer now to running 19+ degrees of timing at cruise speed but my oil temp still shows anywhere from 5 - 10 degrees warmer than coolant temps. If coolant temps are 183, then oil temps are 188 - 193 or thereabouts. 

When you have too advanced timing the fuel is lighting off and starting flame front on the cylinder walls which in turn heats the cylinder coolant jacket. Now the engine oil temperature will rise because there is too much heat from the cylinders and now the oil cooler can't unload heat into a warm coolant jacket. When your flame is created in the bowl of the piston you notice there is no flame contact with the walls and the coolant temperature is going to be cooler around the cylinder walls. When I see the engine oil temp rise to coolant temperature I know I need to drop 2 degrees of cruise timing and I'm good to go in about 5 miles drop to about 175*F with my 200*F thermostat so then let on knowing the changes I've got to do as the weather warms up and cetane starts to drop.

 

Reverse can be true too being too retarded can start a flame front on the cylinder wall. As the piston starts down and expanding the front on to the walls as the piston is traveling down.

 

TIP: Optimal intake manifold temperature is between 80 to 140*F - Cooler temps just degrade MPG and require retune to stay up with the changes of fuel and environment.

 

Tip: The optimal cetane is 40-43 on these trucks unless in winter climate then 45-47 is required. Adding more cetane does not improve fuel. More cetane you add the lower the BTUs become for the fuel. Keep your cetane as low as possible at all times. 

 

Coolant should be 190*F Thermostat. 180 Thermostat is too cold for our 24V because of the valve design it cools down way easy. This is why I went to 200*F thermostat being I've got temperatures down to -20*F this winter. Intake manifold heat is a requirement to make these Cummins run in the 20's MPG wise even at minus temperatures. 

 

SECRET: Fuel table shouldn't rise above 100% in your cruise state range. Example my truck to climb a 7% grade at 65 MPH needs about 13 to 14 PSI of boost. My fuel table rises above 100% at 15 PSI of boost. If I dig into the throttle I have all my power there at the ready. As well as cooler EGT's

Where in the tune am I dropping 2 degrees of cruise timing? In the RPM Timing Max equalizer settings in the 1500 and 2000 rpm slider?

Nope neither. 

 

There are many secrets I've found regarding tuning on a Quadzilla or using custom injectors which is the tough part finding proper timing where your engine load drops lower, EGTs drop lower, and engine oil temperature drops. 

 

TIP: Anything that is creating heat is a loss of power. That horsepower created in motion as it travels from the piston to the rear tires if it's creating heat its is wasted energy converting to heat. The ultimate is not to have any heat. The best we can do is reduce the amount created.

 

TIP: Optimal final ratio for daily drivers is 3.73:1 after tires. Example: Take the stock 265/75 R16 off and pit on a set of 245/75 R16 ties now switches the final from 3.55 to 3.69 after tires. This is reduction on transmission temperature and rear axle temperature.

Ok, so here is what I've worked out for a DD, tell me if I'm wrong, or if I'm going down the right path.

DAP 7x.009 injectors popped @ 320 bar, hx35 turbo, 215 85r 16 tires, 3.55 dif

 

TUNE PARAMETERS

Number of Power levels:  7

RPM Limit: 3400

 

VALET MODE PARAMETERS

Maximum Valet Mode Power:  50

 

PUMP TAP PARAMETERS

Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1400

TPS Pump Maximum: 100

TPS Pump Minimum: 25

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI 8

Boost Scaling: 35

 

TIMING PARAMETERS

Fuel Load Timing: 2

Low PSI Timing Reduct: 2

Timing Reduct Scaling: 100

Light Throttle Timing Adv: 3

Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30

 

RPM TIMING MAX

1500 RPM: 16

2000 RPM: 18

2500 RPM: 22

3000 RPM: 25

Max: 26

 

Mark

 

Hey @Scarecrow give me a call and tell you some numbers to try also another trick to learn timing better. 208 315 1470