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    Red Lake Falls, MN

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  1. Running 305/50r20's with a dually would definitely kill your mileage. Mark
  2. With factory replacement injectors going for about $100 over the counter, performance sticks don't really cost that much more and will really wake the truck up. Places like DAP will pop them to whatever spec you want. Mark
  3. What injectors do you have? Stock, or something bigger? Without any leaks, I would think you should be able to hit at least 27 PSI with stock injectors. The other thing that comes to mind, is how many miles do you have on them? One of the biggest things I've learned is it takes fuel to make boost. Mark
  4. The only reason to use #2 and treat it is that it has more BTU's, in other words, more power than a winter mix, which is normally about a 70/30 mix of #2 and #1. As I've said before, in Minnesota, we don't have a choice about biodiesel, the state says that's all you get. The reason I'm doing these tests is to find out: 1. Is the increased (maybe) mileage of #2 and treatment a better cost effective plan or: a) This also brings the question, what works if I gel up, (or for you southern boys, if you come a little too far north in the winter with untreated fuel) 2. Is the higher priced and less (maybe) mileage winter blend overall cheaper. This is what happens when you have time to think on long cold winter nights in northern Minnesota. Mark
  5. Unintended consequence of this is I can say that Roadmaster XL diesel will not gel to at least -30 f. Got a little soupy, but would still pour. Mark
  6. Okay, just tried the scanner we have at the store here (innova 3100), and it won't read my truck. What are you guys using for scanners for our cummins trucks?
  7. I was going to experiment with 911 and Meltdown to see if they preform as advertised, and if so, which is best. Went to local Cenex with a couple of pickle jars and put about a quart in each. Left the jars outside last night, I mean why put it in the freezer when it's -10 F outside? Bad news is it was Roadmaster, which is somewhat winterized, and still not gelled. I'll leave it out until it gels or spring, whatever comes first. I did some reading on B5 and B20 studies by NDSU and U of M, and how cold affects both in farm equipment. The studies find that B5 blends have minimal effect on the CFPP (cold filter plugging point). B20 that is not treated with anti-gelling additives freezes about 3 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit faster than No. 2 petroleum diesel, depending on the cold-flow properties of the biodiesel and the cold-flow properties of the petroleum diesel. Guess I got to go to a truck stop to find some "straight" #2. When I find some, I'll try this again just for my own curiosity, and let you know what I come up with. Mark
  8. Vehicle: Scarecow Category: 2nd Generation Date Added: 2020-01-30 Scarecow
  9. If you're on a budget, and who isn't these days, you can buff the lenses clear and try to get the moisture out of the housings. The trick to buffing them out is by cleaning the lenses, you just took off the UV protection, and they will turn yellow and cloudy that much quicker. After you buff them out, give them a coating of clear spray paint for UV protection, and they will last longer. Just a couple of body shop tricks learned over time. Mark
  10. Simple answer is no, the lights are cracked or are not sealed in some way. You can dry them out as posted above, but the condensation will return. The non sport headlights are pretty cheap online.
  11. FPPF makes a product called Melt Down that is supposed to liquify gelled bio diesel, haven't had to use it yet, so I can't say how good it works. I have used their bio diesel ant gel, and I do know it works down to around -35 F
  12. Here in Minnesota we are required to use biodiesel, so even though I don't really like it,we're just stuck with it. Summer fuel is the B20, and starts April 15 thru the end of Sep, when they switch to B5 or winter bio blend. I guess I've never noticed a mileage difference between the two, but that could be just the normal mileage drop in the winter making the difference between the 5 and 20% brews. I usually treat #2 than use the winter blend unless it gets real cold (-40). Big problem if you get caught with a tank of summer fuel and we get a cold snap in Oct. You probably know that bio starts to gel at around 40 F, and the higher the % better chance for a problem.
  13. The heater elements of block heaters rarely fail, the main failure is usually the cord going bad/shorting. I work for a parts house( good way to pay for the hobby/addiction ), and the cord should be available for about 30-40 bucks
  14. I was thinking about Mike's switch for a while now, but want to check my tps and flash to be sure that's not the problem. As I understand Mike's switch to work the high idle has to be enable. The MPG feature would be great as winters up here tend to be long and cold. The real fun is to have a cold snap in Oct, and get caught with B20 in the tanks!
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