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Battery terminals? How to replace factory battery cable ends with military terminals

  • Owner

For all of you who have bad terminals, as I do on Thor. They have been over-tightened too much; the lead terminal is completely torn up and just cannot get them tight. This is typically because people overclean and cut away too much lead out of the center of the terminal, making them too big, or they never got shoved all the way down the terminal and are now too small. I've got the military terminal here, and copper lugs for the cables.

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Here is what I have currently just to keep the truck running. Extremely sad method, but it works for right now. Passenger side battery. Look at the ground cable held in place by a c-clamp because the bolt is rotten and seized up the nut the lead won't hold the terminal correctly.

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Then look at the driver side. The positive lead terminal is badly oxizided (blacken appearance) that oxidized layer is just like rust on a metal surface that ground wiring has problems with.

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We are going to change out the battery terminals all with military terminals and then copper lugs on all the wiring. The new military terminals will be treated with engine oil before installing. Just think a second what are the only two materials in the world that can contain sulphuric acid? Answer. Glass which is no longer used and plastic. Plastic is made from what? Oil! Just little engine oil will stop the sulphuric acid from oxidizing the battery terminals in the future if you keep a light coating of engine oil. That's all this will be a fix that will not require fixing again if you keep the oil on the terminals.

Edited by Mopar1973Man

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  • Owner

Wound up delaying the install, finding out the wiring map supplied by Mopar FSM is actually incorrect for some of the battery gauge sizes the 3rd Generation truck are actually 2/0 AWG cable not the stated 0 AWG. Lost most of my warm part of the day going back to get the right rings for this project.

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  • Owner

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Thor now has a full set of military terminals, and the copper lugs are all crushed on. Sadly, my crimping tool is not designed for large copper lugs like 2/0 and 0 AWG wire sizes, so it pinched the copper on one side, but still made a solid lugs. Improved starting performance, it spins over stronger now. I no longer see power fluctuations like before. There is a few thing I'm going to do is reroute the positive lead for the TIPM so its no longer hanging up the fuse box cover.

Driver Side battery

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Passenger Side Battery

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