Well my limited slip Posi trac has just about shot its last Wod...has been week for some time..last winter i noticed i was getting 0 assistance from the other wheel. Comming home THE OTHER NITE FROM WESTERN KY. IT STARTED ACTING WEARD.. IM THINKING OF REPLACING IT WITH A "EATON/DETROIT TRUCE TRAC....IS ANYONE RUNNING ONE OF THESE...NEED MORE INFO:shrug:Richie

Why not just reclutch the factory limited slip the way its supposed to be stacked and it will be tighter than you would expect. not to mention a fraction the cost and work to do. Oems stack the clutch pack to be intentionally loose so they don't get complaints of ratcheting and snapping. When properly stacked they will act almost like a full locker.

Yeah..but wont that make it drive and trac funny

Yeah..but wont that make it drive and trac funny

They do not trac any diferent than an open diff, you just need to learn to drive with them in slippery conditions. Not any different than any other locker or limited slip just tighter in turns.

Diff has never felt right...truck had 50K when i bought it...proably 75% ot these miles were pulling a fifth wheel camper

clutch kit is gonna cost around 225.00..not to bad...but if i have to replace any gears or bearing's there wont be much difference in buying a new Eaton True Trac DIFF .....620.00 DELIVERED TO DOOR

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They do not trac any diferent than an open diff, you just need to learn to drive with them in slippery conditions. Not any different than any other locker or limited slip just tighter in turns.

YEAH.. thats exactly what i dont wont...lots of curvy roads where i live..i have to drive 20 miles to get to a major highway and then its not to straight....i dont wont the front end pushing thru curves..rough on tires

To preface, I haven't run a "correctly" packed posi/limited slip like WnF mentioned. However, I have installed a TrueTrac in a Dana 44 equipped Ram 1500 after the factory limited slip tried to eat itself. I liked the truetrac a lot. As it is a torque biasing diff, it drove like an open diff unless I appled enough power and there was some difference in RPM of the two rear wheels. When I did get into it and applied power, it would lock up. I did some very over ambitious 4 wheeling with the truck, and when you are on three wheels, the wheel not touching the ground will spin, unlike a detroit. However, in 99% of the driving I did it worked flawlessly. It didn't seem to fishtail as much as a detroit would in snow, and it wouldn't "ratchet" unless you turned really tight with lots of power or backed up with lots of power. I really liked the truetrac, and would put it in again... However, I don't do enough off road in my Cummins to warrant anything over the open rear end. If I can't get where I need with chains in 4x4, I probably shouldn't drive there, though I didn't let that stop me when I was younger.

well im putting this in a dually...so i will never be doing any off roading....SO WOULD THIS NOT BE A GOOD CHOICE STILL:shrug:

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well im putting this in a dually...so i will never be doing any off roading....SO WOULD THIS NOT BE A GOOD CHOICE STILL:shrug:

I do have issues trying to get across the Mountain in the Winter though:lmao:

Man I don't know where everyone is buying parts but I have put several clutch kits in and never paid over 50 bucks for the disc pack. I have seen a few people post the 200+ for ls kits. I think they include side gears when you can buy just the clutch pack kit alone.As far as tire wear or pushing through corners it is not noticable unless you drive around town and make slow speed turns all day on dry pavement.

Man I don't know where everyone is buying parts but I have put several clutch kits in and never paid over 50 bucks for the disc pack. I have seen a few people post the 200+ for ls kits. I think they include side gears when you can buy just the clutch pack kit alone.

As far as tire wear or pushing through corners it is not noticable unless you drive around town and make slow speed turns all day on dry pavement.

Are the clutchs hard to put in????

Not at all. Remove the axles, Pull the carrier assembly from the axle housing, remove the ring gear and then split the case and there they are.

O.K guys,.. I have just about made up my mind to go with a new Eaton/True Trac Diff. complete..But i have to Reinstall my Ring Gear on the new DIFF. I have never set up one of these before. What kind of job am i getting in to?? I mean, how hard is it to set up the Back Lash & pre-load on the pinion and carrier??:shrug:Richie

You don't need to touch the pinion at all to swap the carrier.You will need a shim kit and some set up bearings which have a slightly bigger inside diameter inside the race so you don't have to press and pull them off. The shims on a Dana carrier are between the bearing and case. You will need to go in and out quite a few times to get things shimmed properly. This is the worst part of Dana set ups, setting them up is a pain as compared to most other diffs. After you have it shimmed correctly then you press on the new bearings. And put the setup bearings on the shelf to collect dust until you need to set up another carrier.Make sure you check backlash on your existing gears before pulling them out for reference when setting up the new carrier bearings. I like to set things as close to .008" backlash as possible. A couple thousanths either way is fine.

You don't need to touch the pinion at all to swap the carrier.

You will need a shim kit and some set up bearings which have a slightly bigger inside diameter inside the race so you don't have to press and pull them off. The shims on a Dana carrier are between the bearing and case. You will need to go in and out quite a few times to get things shimmed properly. This is the worst part of Dana set ups, setting them up is a pain as compared to most other diffs. After you have it shimmed correctly then you press on the new bearings. And put the setup bearings on the shelf to collect dust until you need to set up another carrier.

Make sure you check backlash on your existing gears before pulling them out for reference when setting up the new carrier bearings. I like to set things as close to .008" backlash as possible. A couple thousanths either way is fine.

How do i determine how many or which shimms to put in??? is this how you set the backlash by adding or subtracting shims...im used to setting up Rockwells & eaton diff. in big Trucks but this looks totally different.

I like to remove the bearings from the old carrier to get to the shims underneath but since you are going with a new carrier that will change so you need to start from square one, the old pack will get you close but usually need to add or subtract shims anyhow. The shims set both back lash and preload. You first need to set preload and this will determine the amount and thickness of shims needed, then you work with that pack and set backlash last by moving the shims back and forth as needed to get proper back lash spacing between ring gear and pinion.

i like to remove the bearings from the old carrier to get to the shims underneath but since you are going with a new carrier that will change so you need to start from square one, the old pack will get you close but usually need to add or subtract shims anyhow.

The shims set both back lash and preload. You first need to set preload and this will determine the amount and thickness of shims needed, then you work with that pack and set backlash last by moving the shims back and forth as needed to get proper back lash spacing between ring gear and pinion.

is the preload set on the pinion,...and by adding or subtacting shimms also???

Pinion preload and depth setting is set the same way with shims under the bearings and between race and case. But unless you have a bearing failing on the pinion there is no reason to remove it or mess with it.