I asked this on a few other boards, but figured I would ask here also. I bought my Cummins about a month ago, It drove perfect. The motor is stock, and I had thought the transmission had been rebuilt at some point due to how nice it shifted and how much cleaner the transmission was comapaired to everything else under the truck. Not long after I got the truck, I desided to check the fuel pressure. I bought a cheap-o oil guage from the parts house and used one of the test ports on top of the fuel filter housing. Well My lift pump is only putting out 10psi at idle, and Zero at WOT. So I figured i would take it over to my father house to park it. (more space) Its a 5 mile trip over from my house, and on the way over the torque converter would not lock up. The transmission shifted like normal,just not converter lock up. I have not drivin it since then. I am trying to keep any further damage from my VP$$.I reason tell you all that to ask this.. Is there anything I could have bumped, or knocked loose wile I was messing with the fuel filterhousing? Before this, it shifted perfect. It would lock in at 42mph and not budge unless I slowed down, or got on the trottle heavy. I checked the soliniod and it was 30.5 ohms. On the other boards I am beening told my converter/ transmission is shot. I leave for Basic training in january so I dont plan to do anything to my truck till I get back in june. Any Ideas or things to try would be awsome. If in fact my converter is shot, thats cool too. I just dont want to jump the gun. Thank guys

hmmmm interesting... I guess im headed to the parts store to clean out there house brand ATF and all the filters they have. Say this works, do you think a shift kit would help boost line pressure and make it live "longer"? Thoughts?

Whatever way you go you need a shift kit/aftermarket VB. Shift kit is cheaper - its DYI. An aftermarket VB is just a shift kit with (usually) a) Upgraded solenoids b) Apply lever at different ratio Theres a full writeup and install on doing shift kit on CF.

I would rather not risk gunking up a brand new, high $$ VB on something I dont have high hopes of working. With the Shift kit, I can take it back out, and pawn it off later when I get a built trans.

If you change tranny yourself make absolutely sure you remove the check valve in the brass fitting on the water cooled heat exchanger (located below the turbo). It is a spring and ball valve on the tubing connection to the exchanger to keep TC from draining while engine is off. Debris catches on that check valve and needs to be removed. Many rebuilders completely remove this check valve as it only means a 5 second delay in moving when initially engaging D or R. Pre 1994 never had them anyway but many rebuilt trannies have been ruined by this trash releasing when not flushed properly. The air heat exchanger and tubing should be flushed both ways several times using a small pump with fresh ATF. I think most tranny shops have a filter inline so they can flush the same fluid but this may be difficult for the casual mechanic. Some searching will yield a picture of it. DTT always removes this permanently. The plugged valve may also yield some of your symptoms with inadequate hydraulic pressure.

If you change tranny yourself make absolutely sure you remove the check valve in the brass fitting on the water cooled heat exchanger (located below the turbo). It is a spring and ball valve on the tubing connection to the exchanger to keep TC from draining while engine is off. Debris catches on that check valve and needs to be removed. Many rebuilders completely remove this check valve as it only means a 5 second delay in moving when initially engaging D or R. Pre 1994 never had them anyway but many rebuilt trannies have been ruined by this trash releasing when not flushed properly. The air heat exchanger and tubing should be flushed both ways several times using a small pump with fresh ATF. I think most tranny shops have a filter inline so they can flush the same fluid but this may be difficult for the casual mechanic. Some searching will yield a picture of it. DTT always removes this permanently. The plugged valve may also yield some of your symptoms with inadequate hydraulic pressure.

Thank you for the good info! Depending on who I get to build the transmission will dictate who puts it in, however that is a little ways off. My current plan is to patch this one up so I can at least drive it. It will need to be inspected soon, so I kinda need it to drive to and from the inspection station.. I did some quick searches on the Drain back valve and I will be sure to remove it to clean the lines, but I think ill put it back in once im finished. This is for anyone: My current plan. 17qts of AFT+4 Change filter, and adjust the bands. attempt to flush the transmission as best I can. See how that goes. If the transmission improves, ill get a shift kit and flush the system again, if it stays the same I throw in the towel and wait for a rebuild, thought?

I went to autozone this morning and cleaned out there atf+4 section. I chickened out on the band adjustment because i dont have an inch pound tq wrench. I flushed 17qts threw it . The fluid is still dirty looking, but it looks better. I drove the truck up the road and it is 99% better. Still no tq lock up though. I plan to try nd flush it again but this time clean the tcc solenoid. Honestly, would a valve body help my situation?

my supplys

There are several simpler items that can prevent lockup. One is the relay that can fail easily being electromechanical. Perhaps you can just switch two relays. I am not sure if the AC relay may be same type?The other is just poor electrical connection. A little electrical savy and a DVM can help find out. There is also the solenoid itself in the transmission. Have a good look at the transmission lockup circuitry in the FSM available in download section. The manual has good tips on checking components with a DVM.

There are several simpler items that can prevent lockup. One is the relay that can fail easily being electromechanical. Perhaps you can just switch two relays. I am not sure if the AC relay may be same type? The other is just poor electrical connection. A little electrical savy and a DVM can help find out. There is also the solenoid itself in the transmission. Have a good look at the transmission lockup circuitry in the FSM available in download section. The manual has good tips on checking components with a DVM.

I tested the electrical circuit back in December. I have a tcc switch hooked up now too, but it doesn't work. I think its in the tranny.

I think you can still check the coil resistance of the solenoid inside the valve body by unplugging the electrical connector to the tranny and check with DVM on ohms. FSM has typical value. Most times a bad solenoid will read open circuit as 0L = infinity ohms = overload.

I think you can still check the coil resistance of the solenoid inside the valve body by unplugging the electrical connector to the tranny and check with DVM on ohms. FSM has typical value. Most times a bad solenoid will read open circuit as 0L = infinity ohms = overload.

You are correct. I checked the resistance in the solenoid back is December before I left. The ohm value fell right in spec. In the 6 months since then the truck has just sat. i will double check it again though.

Update:Im saving for a Transmission. Ill leave it at that. Thanks for the help, advice, and words of wisdom.Should've help out for the manual

Update: Im saving for a Transmission. Ill leave it at that. Thanks for the help, advice, and words of wisdom. Should've help out for the manual

care to elaborate? im courious. Oh and a Built auto is worth its weight in gold.

care to elaborate? im courious. Oh and a Built auto is worth its weight in gold.

I dumped 20+ quarts of ATF threw the trans trying to get it as clean as I could. (The last 10 was not planned, I left a hose clamp loose and it pumped it out for me. ) I spent most of the day baking in the sun, covered in ATF, fumbling with sun heat soaked parts. I followed the TransGo directions to the T. I drilled the larger holes where I had to drill for more pressure in hopes it would help my well worn clutches hold. I found a broken spring inside the valve body. It was behind a small piston behind a plate that faces down that hold the harness up. I dont know what it does, and at this point dont really care. The whole process was not hard, just took forever. Going back together the only thing I wonder about was the rod that the E-clip goes too. It just kinda flopped out and I could really figure out what it was suppose to push against. I put it back just like I found it when I dropped the VB. Once the VB was in I added fluid wile the truck idled in neutral. Dropped it into D and pulled forward. I could tell right then it was not going to work. It pulled forward but not like I remember it. It bumped like it was ready to go, but as soon as I touched the throttle, it told me all I needed to know. It pulled forward, but not with out throttle. Before, right when I got the truck, you drop into gear and you had to be on the brake, or you where going forward. Now it just hangs out. 1100rpm~ it just creeps forward, 2000rpm~ it moves "some" but where it should be really moving, its hardly moving itself on flat ground. It mostly would make it over a 2x4. Reverse feel a little better. At least it responds with throttle. In D @ 3200 rpm it moves forward enough to out run a 90 year old woman with a walker. Manually shifting is the same story. I honestly think I goofed somewhere on the VB install. Before I dropped the VB, I could drive it threw the gears, just didnt have TC lock up. (That was after the 1st fluid flush and filter.) Even then though, It was not "right". Just good enough to drive. I bought this truck to be a tow rig for my Toyota, so I could take in rock crawling. I used my Toyota to tow the truck back down the driveway after the failed "test drive". I do love irony. At this point I am finished with this transmission, I gambles a few bills and lost out. I dont plan on sinking one more cent in it. I find it odd though that the CEL is not on. The light works when you 1st turn the key. Hope this answers your question Pepsi, or at lest give you an idea on what its doing... or should I say not doing.