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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

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I bought this trailer to transport my mobility scooter... been shopping & burning fuel (misleading ads... hating the lieing SOBs! Did they think I wouldn't see the rust?) So this one was cheap, $200... because the seller honestly stated it needed work. It has a drop in plank at the rear, no ramp, tilt trailer.

When I arrived, he had his compressor out but couldn't get one tire to hold air... dry rotted anyway... so I bought 2 New tire/wheel assemblies at Harbor Freight $105 & he put them on. Trailer lights were there but not working... I high-tailed it. Near an hour drive, highway through major urban area... tried to use the truck signals & leave enough room & did not make the aquaintance of any fine LEOs.

I did not think to take the set of spare trailer lights I made up to move a covered wagon some years ago... (the wagon's fitted trailer had been hidden in a pasture & I knew better than bother with the lights at the last minute... why did I not remember?) I'll rewire the trailer with plastic conduit while the deck is off.

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Most of the rotted deck was still there when I arrived home. Rotted plywood over the rotted & termite eaten planks... I optomistically stopped at Home Depot & bought new PT planks. I have some green cuperinol & I'll give the decking some additional treatment before installing.

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The trailer after...

I brushed & scraped the rotted wood out of the channels. There is some scaling that was hidden by the wood... everything exposed is good. I'm thinking the sides add a lot of strength to the trailer. I'm thinking the hidden areas might be a good place to learn about POR15. The exposed areas probably just use paint.

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The decking minutes later...

Notice my little plastic stool, a place to sit... My legs were pretty done, so I cleaned up my tools for the day.

I'll have to grind the welds off the strap that hold the planks down... I wonder if I should have it welded back or bolt it down? The latest PT is not as good as before & I'm concerned that the holes might be a place for rot to start... but bolted through with carriage bolts would make servicing much easier for me.

Well, here's todays picts.

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I have acquired a set of pullers so must be one to fit.  Have a grinder...  grinding the race had occurred to me.  The heat from grinding might help to expand the race.  The inner fender is solid so getting a good rap on it will be challenging.  Wish I didn't have the deck on now. 

Maybe with a puller it will surprise you and slide right off!! Well, you can hope.........

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HA! HA!  When was the last time something went the easy way?  The cage came off spilling muddy shrapnel into the dirt.   The remains of the lapped out seal, slip off so now I'm down to just a naked race stuck on the axle.  It's pretty thin & nothing at all to get a hold of.  Had to quit for the night.  I should mush out & spray some penetrant on it...  but I really doubt anything but force & violence will help.  I have a grinder.  I'm thinking to make 2 cuts at 10 & 2 so maybe the race will pop.  Might get a thin chisel under a weakened section.      

Another thing to do is get some acetone and ATF. Mix the two at a 50/50 mix and soak it down with the mixture. By tomorrow it will come off much easier.

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Acetone & ATF?  Yeah, throw some sparks on it & problem solved!   I got A + ATF.  Can't hurt. 

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The mixture would probably work better if the parts could soak in it.  Hard to do on fixed horizontal parts.  It might be possible to clamp a sleeve around the axle & plug opposite.  Acetone is pretty volatile...  wouldn't stay around long in open air.  Even something like a hunk of intertube, a pvc plug, a couple of clamps...  but it would penetrate?     

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I had a thought.  I used to have a box of assorted bolt on locking collars...  I wonder if I might have one the right size to clamp on over this inner race so I could use the puller again...  on the inner race.   What are the odds?   

With luck like mine or yours? :lol:  You should be able to make something work.

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No, my locking collars (a gift from a former customer whose shop made them) stopped just under an inch & it's a 1" axle.  The ATF soup didn't help.  I tried grinding notches in the bearing race & ground the ends of my puller flat...  rounded excessively where they polished it...  but no go.  So I ground through the race most of the way & popped it with the cold chisel.  Hardest part was holding the chisel in my weak hand.  A lot of choice words to accompany the droppcies.  I'm pretty beat.   

Hopefully you didn't hit your hand. I have been known to do that........ Glad you got it going your way, Russ!

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I need to clean up the axle stub & I'm looking at the hub now...  guess I need to pop the outer races now.

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The hubs looked like 1" but wasn't.  Was bigger.  Got new bearings at NAPA but had to order seals...  be in tomorrow. 

The inside of the hub between the bearings is yucky, slimy grimey...  resisting my attempts to clean it.  Maybe need a different solvent?     

Wonder what kind of 'lube' was used on them? Maybe try something 'stronger'? I have used gasoline and even white gas in a pinch. Did you try soaking it in diesel fuel?

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What would dog poo be doing in the bearings?  Some friggin lube!!  It it nasty.  I tried acetone...  I think gas is next.  It would take a large container to soak the whole hub.  I'm thinking a coffee can of gas under the center & a toothbrush.  (She'll never notice!  LOL!!)  

 

The bearing buddy for 1" axle fit, the exterior diameter of bearing for 1" axle fit...  center race did not fit...  hole too small.  Hopefully the last time these axles will need service.     

Wow, acetone won't cut it?? :wow:  Holy CRAP!! That must be some real wicked stuff! I went to a local auto parts store for bearings and it would have cost me almost $40 PER SIDE! They would have had to order a couple of bearings so I declined their offer to order them. I went across the road (literally) and got a kit with bearings and seals for $25 so it pays to look around.

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Well, I'm working at home & don't have a parts washer or even a shop sink.  I was only able to soak paper towels or rags in solvents & it only worked to a point.  I decided to hold the gasoline approach in reserve & try high concentration of detergent in straight hot water.  It's a cold & rainy day & can't work in the driveway anyway. 

So I waited until the wife was not home!  I brought the hub & a plastic container up to the SS kitchen sink...  pouring in a ridiculous amount of detergent & ran straight hot water into the hub, rotating & scrubbing with a wire parts brush (Harbor Freight).  Reverse & do the same from the other side.  Double rinse & done.  The water was hot enough that it evaporated quickly. 

The center of the hub feels rough but may just be unmachined casting.  It may have some surface rust.  But the **** is gone.  There's no loose crud.  Mind you this is still the first wheel but I'll know how to do the second one.  Skipping things which did not work.

 

If it needs more, I can chuck it in the lathe & spin it with a scotch pad inside & see if that does anything.  I think it's too deep for me to reach inside with a boring bar...  and it wouldn't do to remove the seat step.  LOL!    

 

I wish I had an arbor press to seat the bearings & seals but hopefully they'll go easily.       

The center of the hub between the bearings will be rough. The biggest thing is to get the bearings clean and look for rust, galling, etc. on the races and rollers (but you knew that). Since you are replacing the bearings you are ahead of that part. I really wonder what kind of 'grease' was used that you could melt with hot water. I certainly would not use that even in my wheelbarrow! Keep up the good work Russ! You will have a great trailer when you are done!!

Don't discount the idea of whole new hubs. Probably cheaper than 2 bearing sets and the seal. I went to a "wholesale' trailer place. I got all new brakes and hub assembly for a 3,000# axle for around $85 per wheel. Just bolt them to the axle through the backing plate and re-wire. Cheaper than shoes, bearings etc. Way less work too. Plus they were the new auto adjust brakes.

Edited by joecool911

I was thinking about that too but I dont think this little trailer that Russ has brakes on it. You can buy new hub assemblies for real cheap anymore though.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.