Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
I know this topic has been beat to death, but i really need some help with my fuel pressure gauge. A few months ago I purchased an Isspro ev2 fp gauge, autometer snubber, and bigline kit. I install everything, and from day one the gauge has flucktuated. At idle in continuously goes back and forth from 20-18 psi and wot 14-16 psi. After doing a little research I found many recommend that a needle valve be used. i have been putting it off because after the install a had a hard time getting the truck to start probably due to air in the lines. The bigline kit replaces the banjo bolt at the vp44 with a tapped 90 degree fitting. I installed the snubber in the tapped 90 degree fitting and the fp sender into the snubber. My question is, should I install it (snubber, needle valve, then sender) or (needle valve, snubber, then sender), or should I do something totally different. Also what would be the best way to bleed air out of the lines after I take everything back apart and get it back together? Last time I loosened the tapped 90 at the injection pump and bumped the starter until I saw fuel and tightened it back up. Any tips, insight, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Btw Im running Raptor FRRP if that makes any difference.