Well I got hit again today with a bad part. Got all my gauges hooked up yesterday and was waiting on the intake elbow gasket to get here before I run the truck. It came in this morning and I got it all back together and primed the fuel system. Let it idle for a couple min and looked at my fuel pressure gauge and saw this I checked every part house in town and no one ha the pump at a reasonable cost and none would price match an online competitor price. Called the Cummins dealer in Memphis and he priced me one for 160 an said he would ship it to me for about 10 dollars. Went ahead and ordered it since a don't have the money to put on an AD or Fass right now. The new pump should be here tomorrow. P.S. That pressure is at idle. I took it for a short drive to see it it would improve and it would hover just above 0 at 55MPH.

Dang another mod. I remember when I was dumb and didn't even have a guage.

My "kit" is parts and pieces from Vulcan as well as stuff sourced from a local parts store. The tank module is factory stock, no draw straw at all. The connection to the tank is factory as well. My "big line" actually starts just before the tank itself on the frame rail. The Carter pump is mounted directly below the drivers seat on the outside of the frame rail and feeds the factory filter canister/heater assembly. From there is is "big line" directly into the VP. The pump wiring was extended down to the frame mounted pump using a Vulcan harness but they are simple enough to make. Everything is Push Loc type rubber hose, braided or anything is not needed. Push Loc is cheap and available just about anywhere and way less hassle that braided. I had braided at first, waste of money for this application. I can take some pics of the frame mount set up if you want them. Jeff

That would be great if it is not a hassle. I have the big line kit from filter to injection pump now and have a new factory lift pump from Cummins.

Here you go, although not much to really see.

This is the pump mounted outside the frame under the drivers seat. As you can see, it's in the open with nothing protecting. This particular pump has about 150,000 miles on it and as you can see, has been through hell and back.

I can change pumps if need be in under 10 minutes. I do have the fittings needed to use ball valves to shut the fuel off when the time comes to change it, just the time hasn't come. Right now, I clamp a couple of small vice grips before and after the pump and swap it out.

This just shows the big line going directly into the VP, nothing really out of the ordinary.

This shot shows my "T" line (blue) coming off the bottom of the fuel canister for my mechanical fuel pressure guage in the cab. It was easier this way instead of mounting the needle valve down on the bottom of the canister where it would be a little harder to get to.

Sorry the truck isn't flashy or spotless, it's a work truck and it works everyday making me a living.

If you need more, let me know.

Jeff

How did you hook into the factory lines? cut them off and put PTC in and then adapter fittings to the 1/2PTC?

How did you hook into the factory lines? cut them off and put PTC in and then adapter fittings to the 1/2PTC?

The metal line on the frame just before the tank right where the rubber line joins it...........all I did was slip the new fuel line over the metal line and double hose clamped it, simple as that. It seems that some trucks have a crimp connection (think air conditioning line connection) between the factory metal and rubber line where as others have a bulbed end on the metal line with the rubber line pushed over it and permanently clamped. My truck was a crimped connection, I just cut the metal line, slipped my rubber line over it about 6 inches and double clamped with a typical hose clamp. It is a fairly snug fit and it hasn't leaked yet. Jeff

Thanks for the input. I am still working a few kinks out of truck and putting what little bit of spare money i have towards "needed stuff" lol. It will be done in the future though lol.

The metal line on the frame just before the tank right where the rubber line joins it...........all I did was slip the new fuel line over the metal line and double hose clamped it, simple as that. It seems that some trucks have a crimp connection (think air conditioning line connection) between the factory metal and rubber line where as others have a bulbed end on the metal line with the rubber line pushed over it and permanently clamped. My truck was a crimped connection, I just cut the metal line, slipped my rubber line over it about 6 inches and double clamped with a typical hose clamp. It is a fairly snug fit and it hasn't leaked yet. Jeff

Did you use 3/8 line from the stock tank suction line to the lift pump? That is what I did and it was a nice snug fit. Did you use a larger ID fiting going into the stock filter?

Did you use 3/8 line from the stock tank suction line to the lift pump? That is what I did and it was a nice snug fit. Did you use a larger ID fiting going into the stock filter?

Fuel line is all 3/8 line. at the time I did all this, the fittings to go with 1/2 line were not all available as they are now. If I was to do this all over, or replace anything major I would step up to 1/2. Flow volume is key. The biggest issue with the factory system is obviously where the pump is mounted, but the banjo fittings are what kills the flow volumes. Just eliminating the banjos will make a considerable difference but doing that, it's easier to just yank it all and go simple with bigger rubber line and a handful of fittings. Moving the pump will make the biggest improvement of all. When I moved my pump down to the frame, I purchased 2 pumps actually. The second is undr the rear seat waiting for the first one to die. I have never touched it from where I placed it under the seat, so far it hasn't been needed and as much as this current pump puts out psi wise, who knows how long the spare will sit there. Been about 3 years now. I have always maintained that there is nothing wrong with the OEM Carter pump, it is where it was originally mounted that was the problem. Sure I could have gone and got an AirDog or Raptor or whatever the newest thing going is, but when your in the middle of nowhere, try and find parts when one pukes and dies. Just about any parts store, farm equipment dealer, etc has a Carter on the shelf or can have one pretty quick. It might not be the "exact" replacement unit for our trucks but it can be easily made to work in a pinch. I know lot's of guys who went the fancy pump route and had problems with them..........dieing, warranty, whatever. They ened up going back to a stock pump on the frame and most of them if I remember right are still going. Maybe I'm just old but my truck works for my money, so why fix it if it ain't broke. Might have to modify it a bit but it ain't broke. Jeff

Again if you look at my post# 13, The bore size of a Parker Hannifin #8 X metric AN fitting or the banjo bolt is.2962. Drilling the 4 ports of the banjo bolt out to.182 and use the aftermarket 3/8 banjo fitting. Your smallest restriction is .2962 and this size can not be made larger without weakening the fitting.

oldbeek, this is what happened, got out the paperwork and took a look. ECM software programming failed.

Also, in some instances the ECM failed to accurately report diagnostic system information that can result in a failure of certain state-mandated inspection and maintenance tests.

After the fail, Chrysler sent me a letter extending the Engine Control Module to lifetime coverage. This ECM extended warranty coverage applies to 2004-2005 2500/3500 5.9L Engine Dodge Ram Trucks.

Chrysler had me send them copies of all the work performed and reimbursed the total. Which was a heafty bill. But Chrysler came through!!!