So the other problem with same truck (see other thread on rust) ....... is there is NO AC. Its was removed for larger twins/intercooler.So two questions here.1) I assume all I need to hook back up is compressor, condensor, ac radiator at front and lines. Basically just hook all back up ? And then charge and look for leaks.2) As its a closed system. What are the chances that the AC heater core is all rusted and Im going to be pulling the DASH and doing a new heater core etc.

1) I assume all I need to hook back up is compressor, condensor, ac radiator at front and lines. Basically just hook all back up ? And then charge and look for leaks.

That would be about it, just replace the receiver/dryer, and make sure that the system is evacuated properly. If it holds a vacuum you can assume it is a leak free system.

2) As its a closed system. What are the chances that the AC heater core is all rusted and Im going to be pulling the DASH and doing a new heater core etc.

The heater core is seperate from the evaperator for the A/C. If the antifreeze is not leaking then the heater core is not leaking, but the evap could very well be leaking and without assembling the parts it can be difficult to tell if it leaks. You may be able to figure out a way to pressurize the evap to test it prior to putting it all together.

If the ends of the hoses, compressor, and condenser were not capped off dust, dirt, and moisture has contaminated them. The system should be flushed and the expansion valve replaced along with the accumulator. The system then needs to be evacuated, charged and leak tested.

The heater core is seperate from the evaperator for the A/C. If the antifreeze is not leaking then the heater core is not leaking, but the evap could very well be leaking and without assembling the parts it can be difficult to tell if it leaks. You may be able to figure out a way to pressurize the evap to test it prior to putting it all together.

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If the ends of the hoses, compressor, and condenser were not capped off dust, dirt, and moisture has contaminated them. The system should be flushed and the expansion valve replaced along with the accumulator. The system then needs to be evacuated, charged and leak tested.

Honesty dont know but assuming they weren't capped off. Ill be replacing all factory components (unless anyone knows of a good aftermarket kit thats reasonable).

How do you mean flushed ?

Expansion valve Im guessing you mean the orifice tube ???

For flushing an A/C system most auto parts stores have something to flush them. Here is one example: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/A-C-Flush-Kit/_/N-263m Yes the expasion device is an orifice tube. It has a small hole to spray refrigerant through and is prone to plugging.

For flushing an A/C system most auto parts stores have something to flush them. Here is one example: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/A-C-Flush-Kit/_/N-263m Yes the expasion device is an orifice tube. It has a small hole to spray refrigerant through and is prone to plugging.

Orifice tube is in the ac line itself or in the condensor at the front ? Thx didn't know about the flushing. What do you guys think ? Shouldn't be that hard of a job if the AC evaporator in dash holds vacuum ?

Not to hard to do just take your time. Use new o-rings when refitting components and coat them with PAG oil for lubrication and don't over tighten the fittings, about 25ft-lb is all that's needed . The expansion valve is in the high pressure line after the condenser and before the evaporator. On my truck it is in the high pressure pipe next to the right battery. It's where two pipes are joined and aluminum heat tape covers the joint.

Been a while since I had some of the components off. And obviously truck wont have them when I get it.How do the lines attach to the evaporator up front and the drier on side of engine bay - some quick connect fiiting right ? Do you need a special tool ? Anything else to think of when I start sourcing parts ? Anyone know anywhere you can get some custom flexible AC lines made ? That would be neat for twins later and some other reasons ...

I think you're talking about the condenser, that's what's in front of the after cooler. The evaporator is located in the dash. The high pressure lines bolt to it, with an o-ring between the fitting and the condenser. The lines to the dryer/accumulator are a push-snap type and need a special tool. It's a common tool that is also used on high pressure fuel injection lines. they come in different sizes and NAPA or Harbor Fright should have a set of them. I don't know who could make up hoses for you but the high side of an A/C system can reach pressures of over 350 psi when the outside temp is over 100. NOTE: An after cooler is used between the turbo and the intake manifold. An intercooler is used between two turbochargers. Volvo is the company that missed named it in 1982. I was a mechanic at a Volvo dealer when they first came out with it as a factory kit you could put on. Marketing thought it sounded better to call it an intercooler. The rest of the manufacturers went with it.

Been a while since I had some of the components off. And obviously truck wont have them when I get it. How do the lines attach to the evaporator up front and the drier on side of engine bay - some quick connect fiiting right ? Do you need a special tool ? Anything else to think of when I start sourcing parts ? Anyone know anywhere you can get some custom flexible AC lines made ? That would be neat for twins later and some other reasons ...

Do you have any junkyards around? IThat would be the place I would go to for misc. Lines and such. I would probably spring for a new compressor and dryer but all the odds and ends that may be missing could get real pricey buying new and a junkyard truck would be a great solution IMO Edit: Just noticed it's set up with twins so that may not be feasible JR