I've been neglecting the ToyHauler...  I can't keep up with anything but having this 400 feet from the house really puts it outta sight / outta mind.  Our big reenactment trip is in a couple of weeks & suddenly she's announcing all the problems like I'm supposed to magically fix them.  I had a bad fall last Friday...  but a divot in my head & assorted other bruises.  At least the goose egg has gone down but there's a pretty good seam where I hit.  Sorry to gripe...  you all don't need to hear it all. 

 

After having a new rubber roof put on, it only fixed some of the wet spots...  The way the roof slopes forward, the water is like Niagara Falls in a heavy rain...  I'm suspicious of the front clearance lights but the way my legs are I should not be on any ladder and only my right hand is any good so ladder would need to be to the left, where the tongue is.  I bought new lights & underwater marine caulk...  

 

Now she's announced the roof top AIR CONDITIONER is clicking...  yup, I checked & it is random but pretty much constant.  I shut of AC current (breaker) & it still did.  The combo thermostat is to OFF.  I tried all the breakers including the ne marked AC & it's still happening (but remember the unit has been me screwed with before...  salvage title).   

 

Q:  Is the roof top AIR AC current only?  (If so, maybe It's not wired through a breaker?)  I'm thinking I may need to pull the panel to investigate further.  We never camp with electric service so happy to disconnect if we can.

 

Oh, yes, she thinks the batteries are weak because the onboard sensor doesn't read right...  but interior lights work bright & battery charger is on & humming normal.  That panel is notoriously inaccurate.  I started to wire a digital battery meter at one point.   

Edited June 17, 201410 yr by MnTom
Language

If you shorted the power supply the board shouldn't have been hurt. Just for grins and giggles, have you tried another fuse?

 

Tom got a valid point did you check to see if the power was reaching the circuit board with DVM?

Yes, I checked the fuse & there's still power (DVM) to separate pump switch (what got loose) and the circuit board.  There's not much on the board...  a bunch of 270 ohm resistors & 3 2N390 2 leg little transistors...  diodes.  Transistors have 3 legs, diodes 2.  (hard to see under)  I think it hit near the transistors diodes the way the board was sitting upside down.  

The traces look undamaged.  Resistors will check for continuity.  I haven't done a transistor since I was a kid.  I should have paid better attention when Dad was in a teaching mood but I did build several kits.  At the Electronic Shop I wasn't a bench tech... did wiring, techs did boards.  That's still an option since the board is marked for the components values.  I can do resistors...  maybe diodes...  or get a tech to do it.        

Edited June 25, 201410 yr by flagmanruss

Well, diodes only let the power go one way, so maybe they won't be too hard to diagnose and repair?

I haven't fixed / replaced the water systems circuit board yet...  needed the water system running.  I installed the rocker switch I got from the RV dealer in the panel & after solder splicing /heat shrink tubing the extensions & installing new F/M spade lugs on the ends, I have a working water pump.  The steel panel screws were just through the wall paneling & when I removed them, the rust stripped out the holes.  I installed plastic wall anchors & found SS Self Tapping screws...  screwed the panel to the wall.  The control panel had feet the screws passed through & the flanges on the wall anchor interfere by a fraction so it doesn't quite sit tight to the wall.  I don't care.  I installed the fuse...  the pump runs & the water comes out.

 

I kept the circuit board out in case I decide to work on it, so the rest of the features are non-functional.  At least we can flush!   

 

I have more things to work on... 

At least you got the pump running! Now you need to figure out a way to get the sensors to show you how full the tanks are.

Here is a replacement option...

http://www.rvgauge.com/

New type guages require different in tank connections...  not going to happen.  An aquaintance on a Powerchair forum offered to take a look at it.  I shipped it to him in a flat rate box.  He found a burnt trace where the hot lead had grounded.  He glued a spec of stiff wire (off a resistor) & soldered the ends.  He insisted the switches were not reliable (though I just think they were hard to test with the board loose but I was not going to argue with him.  He replaced the switches...  unsoldered the components from the board. 

He had said he would not accept payment...  I included a check to cover the postage...  It was shipped back along with my check! 

I can't be sure (unless I fill the tanks) but think it's fixed. 

Wow! Nice find on a cheap (free) repair!