My stepson in Chicago tells me this foum has the smartest people on earth for trouble shooting.  This is the 3rd forum I 've asked on so it must be the charm.

No shift, trans torn down 3 times, electrics replaced 3 times. this is long details

This is the ongoing No shift issue of 3 months continuing teardowns and parts replacements today's TPS wires show wrong voltage unplugged. results next paragraph.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ight-help.html

which is also copied below.

This morning I decided to follow JL12valves advice and check the TPS again.

Put i pin in the middle wire ( orange) and got 5 volts at idle and 5 at WOT. I think is should have read 1.5 to about 3 at WOT. I unplugged it and checked the wires.

Black wire 0 as should be it's ground

Orange wire ( center signal I think) 5.04 v

Purple wire 5.09 volts

Here's the deal. 1997 2500 4x4 47RE auto will not shift to O.D. or lock the torque. I've owned it since it was a year old. pretty much stock except torque plate and Jimmy jammers in doors.

Transmission rebuilt under warranty in 1999 @ 70,000

BD V.B installed in 1999

The last 4 years the tranny would shudder under a heavy load unless the throttle was light. No metal in the pan, ever. Always had synthetic oil with regular changes.

Saved up for a new oversize clutch billet torque converter and Kolene kit and finally purchased in Jan. Takes a long time. $434.50 a month SS only goes so far. I should have taken the offer from a couple of you guys who offered to rebuild it for free the year I had 10 surgeries but I was not up to the long drive and years of hard work and pride make charity hard to accept so I didn't.

started not shifting into o.d. in June. 129,000 on the clock. Drove to town for code read. code said output sensor so replaced it. All fine.

Pulled the transmission so I could put the converter and kit in. Needed the core $ bad. Put the rebuild kit in too. Put in another V.B. I had after putting a transgo kit in it. Plus new borg electrics and harness. No shift to 3-O.D. $200 in Amsoil.

Put the BD V.B in . Still the same. Changed the electrics again. No change. Put 100 Ohm resister in B31 wire. No change. Jumped the terminals at the relay so it had 12v all the time on #1 wire on trans plug. still no difference.

Pulled transmission, tore down, new seal kit my stepson bought me since I was out of parts $, found nothing out of order.

BD v.b. installed again with new electrics again. New Trans relay. TPS again. At this point I do not know if any electrics are good and have switched them so many times I have lost track which is which other than the Borg ones are bigger.

Pulled transmission out again and still find nothing wrong. Ordered a VB on ebay and could not install it because the holes were full of dirt. Not going to tear down another VB when it is supposed to be useable. ( still no answer to the request to return for a refund). Put gauges on trans today. No change in trans operation. Gauge test results below.

Nobody has anything in this town any more. Spent 4 hours going place to place trying to find fittings to use my hoses.

Had to buy new hoses and could not get 400 lb hose w/o spending $100 on hydraulic. WTF? I have a hundred feet of hydraulic hose but could get no fittings. Auto Tire and parts had a hose rated at 300# and it would literally swell up in my hand when the pressure would hit 300. The way it swells up, I don't want to know how close the burst pressure is to that. That's why I pulled the truck outside to test.

Here's my tests results. Do not match anything in my trouble shoot book so I have no clue what they mean other than the only thing that is right is 1st and 2nd. sorry the cloumn headers do not line up. Cannot get them to do that on any forum.

test port

pressure

rpm

pressure with TV valve lever pulled back

Low accumulator   60     1000     110

rear servo              60     1000     110

2nd accumulator   65     1000       92

Drive accumulator 100  1600      100

front Servo            -0-    1600        -0-

Reverse Rear servo 300 as soon as put in gear then drops to 100 and stays there 1600 rpm

governor governor in drive    -0-       all

O.D. O.D.        -0-

I need help figuring out what this means. I have literally spent the last 3 months working on this thing plus the last 3 months SS check on seals, electrics, filters, etc. I am to the point if I spend 1 more $, I cannot make next months house payment. Advice would be very helpful. Thanks.

'97 2500 club cab SLT Longbed 4x4 auto, #6 plate,fwd; 24v starter contacts.355 gears.Oversize wheel cyls, BD power Valve Body. 75 hp no-smoke injectors from Red Oak Diesel that smoke, DSS stabilizer, 70a fuel shut-off relay, 118,000 mi 12/07 after 8 yers ownership. all Synthetic, Luke's link ,Jimmi Jammers

This may be helpful to someone sometime.

Info came from a guy on TDR.

cerberusiam

 

Join Date Oct 2001 Location McDonough GA Posts 7,231

Yikes, should have come here the first time you had problems. Would have saved a lot of $$ and hassle.

OD and lockup are all computer controlled. The TPS contributes to when it shifts but it is far form all. The PCM ultimately determines if lockup and OD happen. The first thing you need to do is verify it is mechanical or electronic issue.

Validate you have 12 volts on one wire in the trans control harness with the key on. There will be one wire that is larger than the others and will be hot all the time with key on. If you cannot find 12 volts you have a problem in the harness somewhere. This is the power for the solenoids for TCC and OD so it must work or all rebuilding will be to no avail.

If you have power to the trans, go to Radio shack and get yourslef 2 switches, single pole single throw simple on and off switches. Get 2 1/2 watt 33 ohm resistors, they usually have them in bulk. A roll of 18 gauge wire. Probbaly a total of $7-10. You wan tto wire these switches into the round trans control plug on the transmission.

IIRC, pine #6 is the OD, pin #7 is the lockup. These are the sense wires the PCM grounds to activate the functions. Tap each wire with a scotch loc and run each wire to a seprate switch. From the other side of the switch wire to the resistor then to a chassis ground. Whne you flip the switch to on you will complete the circuit and activate the solenoids for TCC and OD. If you transmission is good and all the hard parts work they will engage. That tells you if it is mechanical or electronic and if it works you now have your functionality back, albeit manually but it is better than nothing.

All your pressure slook good except reverse. It should go to 300 psi, or thereabouts, and stay. Dropping like that sounds like there is a leak somewhere. Two components engage for reverse, rear servo and direct clutch pack. Either could have a leak that is dropping the pressure. That wil cause some shudder in drive and maybe reverse if that pressure is low, under heavy load it will slip. Neither problem will cause OD or TCC to not engage.

Gov pressure is related to wheel speed so until you get the wheels rolling that pressure will geberally be zero. If you put the truck on jack stands the gov pressure should rouhgly follow wheen speed up to about 60 mph or so.

OD port will show no pressure until the solenoid engages. Wire in the mystery switch and see if it will enagage then test the pressure for accuracy.

Hope this helps get you on the right track.

Now that I re read everything, it seems that you are having some serious pressure issues inside the tranny. We should probably determine if it is an internal transmission problem (valvebody, pump, solenoid, etc.) or if the trans is getting wrong electrical signals sent to it to do these things. It sounds like everything is working on the electrical side apart from a possible PCM. The PCM could be causing incorrect voltage signals or no signals at all. Would a faulty PCM be causing the pressure issues inside the tranny? I am not sure. Honestly, I would be having that PCM tested. That at least would rule it out as a possibility. If it is good, we have some bigger issues to look at.

Tested wires for a few more days and tested pressures. They sucked on O.D. and Reverse. cerberusium on TDR told my how to make it shift with mistery switches.  Took it for a 23 mile trip and it finally shifted halfway normal at 7 miles on the highway. here's the final answer. Had to be air locked or pistons still too tight in the bore with the teflon seals and steel  piston rings. something else that tells me it was air locked is I had to put in 1 more qt of oil when I got home.  Checked all the pressures today. All are 20# over specs except reverse which runs a steady 250 any speed or rpm and O.D. that runs a steady 100 psi.  Tried to  run off computer again. No go. Checked pressures on trans again. They be good.  all are 20# over specs except O.D. which is 100# and reverse that runs a steady 250# nomatter what the speed.  plugged in computer, still won't shift except 1-2-3
Works fine on mistery switches.
will replace that p.o.crapola. in dec. when I figure we have enough $ saved to buy one. Thanks for everyone's help. it is VERY VERY much appreciated.

thanks

d