Mopar1973Man

My only problem is this test was designed for home person to test. If you pull the alternator and bench that is done under full load.

Either way excessive AC noise will cause...

• VP44 damage (PSG, P1688 or P1689)

• ECM damage (P0606 but could be a all hi or lo volt codes of all sensors)

• PCM damage (P1698 code typically but also code have hi or lo volt code of sensors)

AC noise puts a lot of stress on transistors and IC chips.

On my truck it made the cruise control to wander +10 or -10 cycling past it's set point of 65 MPH. Either way AC noise pollutes the AC signals from HAL effect sensors like crank sensors or speed sensors like ABS.

Small correction...

it seems like it's mostly fuel related issue. You can't obtain the speed you are requesting of the engine. The idle speed is lower. Be aware idle speed will change with coolant temperature, but typically when it's way high, like above 225℉. I've played with a rheostat and varied the resistance of engine coolant to see what it controls. IAT will change the aspect of the timing of the VP44. The higher IAT is much more stable for efficiency. (80 to 140℉) is optimal.

I'll keep thinking on this why I'm working here on the site. I'll dig for an answer.

What is your lift pump pressure to the injection pump? Optimally, you should see 15 to 17 PSI of fuel pressure to the injection pump. Sounds like it's starving for fuel. Measure this at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at highway speeds to be sure you have plenty of fuel pressure under heavy demands.

Here in Idaho, I just got back from camping up in McCall, Idaho, and it was about 100℉ (37°C) outside for the last few days. Remember, I'm running Beast with a 200℉ Thermostat from a 2012 6.7L Cummins with zero issues, even towing my RV. With my Quadzilla I rarely see above 140℉ fuel temperatures, 175℉ engine oil temperature.

The only device capable of failure without codes is the VP44. There is several cases where the VP44 just no longer will fuel properly and just not throw any codes being its consider failed within specifications. Sadly its true. ECM will typically have a series of low/high volt codes and P0606. PCM will typically throw P1698 IIRC.

This combo is roughly 17,600 pounds (7,983 kgs) rolling up grades of 7% no issues.

You could use the part number lookup up tool then do a search on the internet of the part number it would tell you more about the bolts and nuts.

Correction. It only reports commanded timing only.

Look for anything with looseness...

• Shocks - remove and check for gas charge and suppression. Weak shocks can allow the the axle to bounce.

• Tie Rod Ends - look for any loose tie rod ends.

• Ball joints - Check for vertical movement by prying upwards on a hanging tire.

• Tires - Any deformity? Properly balanced?

• Wheels - Are your wheels true and now bent or out of true?

• Steering shock - It helps, but it's not a cure-all fix, either like some websites mention. Some people omit this shock.

I would like to welcome @Sufarry to the staff and he will be handling the Gallery Moderation. He's going to get people posting pictures and sharing their truck photos.

Thank you.

@Sufarry It was a great conversation on the phone. Sorry, I've been missing in action for a while between the landslide, clearing @Tweety Bird place out, and moving here, and then my bladder cancer.

My notes on this after this hour-long phone call. It is not mechanical that we can find it's a bad signal being created by the ECM and feeding the VP44 the bad information, which makes it knock. I know he is waiting for a Cummins crank sensor to arrive. I've got a few ideas, but I just have to wait for the sensor to arrive for the owner to reinstall the starter and give it a try.

4,500 PSI is stock (310 bar)

4,750 PSI is Max (327 bar)

4,250 PSI is Min (293 bar)

You want your pressures closer to the 4,500 to 4,600 PSI. Im running 4,641 PSI which is 320 bar.

Look at my article for injector cleaning to shim the shim which is under the spring in the body.

Should see positive pressure at all times. Say above 5 PSI. Optimal would be no less than 10 PSI at WOT at highway speed.

All the check valve and regulator is in the sender.

There are only 4 wires. +5V (gauge), sender GND (not body ground), +12V for pump, GND for pump (body ground)

Like my previous pump made noise but zero pressure.

Just one in the fuel tank about 300 dollars for a quality pump. One of the few reasons I ditched stock in my 2006.

Even with a new lift pump in my 2006 I was able to pull fuel pressure into a vacuum state. The in tank pumps are low quality and should be replaced with an AirDog (suggested).

Most likely the in tank fuel pump died. Double check to see if there is 12V power at the fuel sender. If there is power you need a new lift pump (tank sender).

Yes. The cluster will work without the PCM or ECM.

@Tractorman Thank you sir. There is a lot of stuff in the ball of mud under the edge of the roof. We have not seen big things like refrigerator or couch yet so it all balled up.

@kbf98520 right now donations like even some basic tools would be helpful. I lost several thousands of dollars of hand tools not to mention welder and other equipment.

You all have to remember since my cancer I've been without a job or Social Security. The small income from the site barely pays the bills but leaves nothing for replacement of tools or anything.

Mark has lost everything both trucks took damage. House is gone. All his clothes and belongings are gone too.

As the day closes. I've got to give thanks to...

Sharon Gould for helping Suzanna get a bed made up for Mark.

Albert and Jesse for helping get Marks truck moved to safety.

Andrew and Taz for coming down to dig some dirt out so we could access the water valve to the building. Also brought clothes for him to wear.

Alan from the Salmon River FD to saving Mark's life and rescuing him.

Thanks to all the many emergency crews that showed up.

Idaho and Adam's County Sheriff

Salmon River FD and New Meadows FD

Riggins EMTs, New Meadows EMTs, and McCall Paramedics.

The emergency is over but I still have a roof laying in the middle of the driveway, then all the trees and mud here. The amount of debris is unreal.

You have to realize ive lost a serious amount of tools. I've not been able to find big items like my tool box or couch thing like this I'm not sure what weight of all that mud did.

Sadly i was woken up early this morning to a landslide. My buddy Mark has been living down in the house next to my shop helping me out. Mark survived, but bruised up. We lost his dog who unfortunately got crushed with no response of life. Mark was life-flighted out. He's being released today.

Please...I need help! I'm physically incapable of handling the physical labor due to my physical limitations resulting from cancer, to handle this fancy one, could use assistance with machinery or clean up. Any help would be much appreciated!!

Yes sir I'm running brass syncros in my NV4500 and no problems to report even with subzero temperature in winter still shifts good. My problem was with higher HP I was eating the hardfacing off the gear teeth. 50 SAE transmission fluid stopped this problem. Typically sold as a GL-4 fluid synthetic.

Might try that being the dash should be the same but let's see what difference you might get. Oh be sure to allow enough time for the CCD bus to quit talking. True data would be using a oscilloscope to see the bias voltage and any data pulse occurring. Cheap solution to being able to see what is happening.

https://a.co/d/eH3Q65C

Here is the weird part the head ground is at the driver side kick panel. Head power is from the PDC fuses.

The OBDII port is powered from the IOD fuse in the cab. Then the ground pin uses the same ground at the driver side kick panel.

Then all power is funneled through the PDC power lead to the battery. Might check this electrical and possibly fuses and socket of the fuse. Be aware ive seen fuses crack and test good but do weird things.

Battery terminals condition?

Ground wires condition?

PDC fuse box weak connection?

Voltage only drops because of weak connections or poor wiring. In other word electrical load is exceeding something in the circuit. Connector with corroded pins, oxidized wiring...

Should not do anything per se being the gear is missing. It should be like a second neutral.

I would suggest changing to 50 SAE Transmission fluid. Much thicker lube and should stop the wear like that bearing. I was losing hard facing on the gears.

It should work just remember that 5th gear is MISSING. I totally get what you are saying just don't need the bad bearing and gear banging around. Yes it should work just be aware.