01_Cummins_4x4

Use https://www.vindecoderz.com and see if your truck actually came with keyless entry. It's possible that the key fobs died or got lost and the previous owner just got a regular key for it. If it originally had keyless entry, you could get a fob and program it to fix this issue.

Check the push on electrical connectors on your grid heater relays. I accidentally bumped one of mine once and unplugged it when working under the hood.

Mine was doing the same thing. I just recently replaced the t-stat with a 205° Mishimoto thermostat, and installed a brand new blower motor. The old blower motor was caked up with crud and it wouldn't spin one revolution by hand. Then I flushed the heater core several times in both directions, since I got this truck in March of this year. It has a brand new aluminum radiator and fan clutch in it now as well. There's no way that I would pay $1k+ for one of these heaters though. There's not that much material there to warrant that super inflated price for what it is. They're just price gouging the market at those prices.

My 01 does seem like it's more noisy than any of the other 2nd gen 24v pickups I've had.

I'm still interested in this mod. I see to have quite a bit of noise in my cab, but I didn't know what is causing it. Doug

Awesome mod John! I'd like to do this to my 01. Can you please provide the length and measurements of your bracket? Can I do this without issue with my auto trans throttle valve cable?

235/85/16 = 31.7x9.3/16 245/75/16 = 30.5x9.6/16 265/75/16 = 31.6x10.4/16 You're pretty much in line with the 265/75/16, just an inch narrower tire. What are your RPMs at 60 mph?

That's what I had to do with the 99 Cummins I swapped a manual trans into.

I didn't need to do anything with the PCM on my swap. Everything worked normal with no negative issues. Going from a manual to auto, I can see needing the auto PCM to control the trans.

When I did the auto to manual swap on my 99 Cummins 4wd, I only had to get the stock manual tune from Mads Smarty and I flashed it to my ECM. The manual tune has an anti-stall feature built into it.

I bought the overhead console harness, overhead console module, driver's side power seat base, and the wiring harness for the power seat. I added the required breaker for the power seat to the dash fuse panel. It was all plug-n-play.

Mike, it's awesome to know that you're making great progress! I hope you can get back to a modified but somewhat normal life again soon, as that will lift your spirits even more.

Mike, do you have the part # for the t-stat, or which year of 6.7 Cummins to look for?

Brand new set of DAP 150hp SAC injectors (set to 320 bar) installed this last Friday night, and so far everything seems normal and great again.

I rechecked the valve clearances and they are correct. I find it illogical that if an injector is bad, that it should've had this same issue with the other pump. I narrowed it down to the #3 injector as it wasn't firing in a normal rhythmic pattern, and a pump wouldn't isolate this issue to just one injector. The injectors are OEM Bosch with 150hp nozzles, and I suspect they could be the original injectors from 2001. I pulled the injector apart and one of the thin shims in it was broken in two pieces. I ordered a new set of DAP SAC 150hp injectors, and I'm just waiting for them to show up. I requested them to be set at 320 bar.

My friend who has been building diesel trucks for over 17 years listened to my injectors, and the #3 injector isn't receiving enough fuel pressure from the new pump to help it pop off normally. It is clacking but intermittently. My friend has another friend that had the same exact issue with the miss at idle after the engine warmed up, and it was his VP44 pump causing the miss at idle on his Cummins. I pulled the pump off in 45 minutes and will be calling them tomorrow morning and see what they're going to do ASAP, since this pickup is my only rig to get to work in.

But why would it show up only after an injection pump change? My FASS 165 is still running the same fuel pressure at 17-18 psi. The injection pump I took off was still working and only had code 0216. It just wouldn't let me build any boost until the engine was warmed up to 115* due to the previous owner starving it of fuel due to a plugged fuel filter and it probably seized up the timing piston in the pump. I still have a good set of OEM Bosch stock injectors from my other 01 pickup. I guess I can go through the hassle of installing them and see if the issue persists or goes away. I just find it odd that it happened after a VP44 pump change. If the injectors are bad, you'd think that they would've done it with the old pump as the load on the engine is still the same as it was before.

I just wanted to put this out there, that before the new injection pump got installed, my idle used to be 750ish rpm. If the truck is cold, it doesn't flutter, only after it's warmed up. I would think if it's an injector issue, it should do it all the time and not intermittently. I'm leaning towards air in a fuel line or I'm wondering if it could be the fuel temp sensor in the new VP44 pump?

I do not notice the slight flutter while in Drive or Reverse. I have no idea as to how many miles are on the injectors as I just bought the pickup 3 weeks ago. The pickup only has an original 197k on it. It didn't do this until after I installed a new injection pump and checked the valves - .010 intake valves, and .020 exhaust valves.

I feel it in Park. I'll have to check it tomorrow morning to see if I feel it in Drive. I don't see any wetness around any of the fuel lines to the delivery tubes to suspect an issue there. Since I only bled #1, #3, and #4, could there be a chance of air trapped in one of #2, #5, and #6 delivery tubes/injectors? I'd of thought it'd have worked itself out after running it a while after the initial startup.

I've just never experienced this issue before in my other (3) 2nd gen Cummins, with the last one having 100hp injectors in it.

I decided to try and reset my Scan Gauge Il PID for the MAP sensor and now it's showing up again, and it's hovering around 28 at idle. RPM at idle is around 880rpm. I just feel a slight flutter when the engine is idling, and there are no codes. I changed the VP44 last Friday, and then adjusted the valves on Saturday - .010 for intake, and .020 for exhaust.

I noticed yesterday that when I pulled into work, at idle the truck has a very slight flutter. It seems to drive normal down the road so far, as I haven't experienced any serious changes beside the slight flutter at idle speeds. The Scan Gauge II was showing no MAP reading at all, but it was showing it like normal before. I checked and there are no CEL codes at all for anything right now. I unplugged the Edge Comp tuner and plugged the factory MAP sensor plug in, and still no reading. Is it possible for the MAP sensor to just quit all at once?

I got an Oregon Fuel Injection pump and paid extra for it because it comes with the wire tap - tuner ok warranty. This pump comes with all the Bosch updates and the latest head assembly to handle the tuner or programmer being attached to it. I installed it last night and finished at midnight. Then this morning I adjusted the valves, and then changed the engine oil and filter. It runs great like normal again now.