Stubilly

So this is the girlfriends van! The left rear light assy was smashed by her backing into a tree- replaced and it works like a champ. Th left front turn bulb blew so i replaced it and dont get anything. When I throw the turn signal on the left DRL drops off. Does anybody have a wiring diagram or testing procedure for an issue like this? I am not familiar with all the new can bus stuff on lighting on the newer cars so need some guidance I have a good Fluke 87V DVM. thanks

Wil440: Thanks for the reply. hopefully I dont have to rebuild my hyd booster and its a master cylinder and wiring issue! Update!! I did my AC noise check. last time I did it i got a reading of 0.025Mvac, however now it's up over 10.2Mvac so looking at a rebuild or a new one-- Nations looks good but over 500$ for one powder coated and a 2 gage wire is a bit pricy right now:( More troubleshooting after that gets fixed!

IBMobile: Got sig finally! Just rear ABS, thought about the brake pedal issue, I probably rolled the seal cups over rough internal when we did the replacement on the brake parts! Thinking wiring or the ABS module- can get a junk yard one for 125$ locally with a 1 month warranty on it. Got to chase the wires and make sure they are good and no high resistance in them. I am assuming they are a twisted pair using an AC signal from the sensor?? I mentioned the hyd booster as a possible based on the FSM mentioning the spool valve. A master cyl is much cheaper that a booster!!

hey guys and gals: Currently having an issue with my ABS/Brake light popping on then staying on- doesnt happen 100% of the time but a majority of driving time they are both on! I have replaced the rear axle speed sensor as well as the transmission sensor. The speedo needle will bounce very erratically and the brake pedal will sometime fall while sitting at a stop. I am thinking i have a booster problem or a proportioning valve issue. the left front tire will sometimes lock up hard under medium brake application. All the brakes lock up fairly easily on wet roads though. I have done full brake jobs with new wheel cylinders in the rear and new calipers on the front along with new flex lines on the front as well. Any ideas or thoughts or "I've had that happen and this was the fix" Thanks for your time on this.

Stanley: Thanks for the reply, I didn't see anything bent out of shape when I pulled it back off, however I didn't look really close! I will tear it back open when she comes back from the Overhaul shop and see if I did tweak it somehow. If I have any money left over I might just pony up and get 2 fob's to see if its the CTM/Security module acting up, and the girl friend would have a button then other than just a key lol.

I replaced the clock spring about 3 weeks ago to fix the airbag light and cruise issue I was having. While reinstalling the airbag I pinched the horn wire and didn't notice till I was driving home and got the horn to blow when turning left! Got home and repaired it with a butt splice connector and all seemed well for about 5 hours then the horn lit off solidly blowing for all it was worth. Went out started the truck moved the wheel and all was well until about 10pm then it did it again! Removed the horn relay and nothing since. My question in all of this is: Do I need to replace the clock spring or could this be a horn pad issue like the 94 Durango's had of being bent and making contact with ware??The wire from the clock spring had a copper mesh look to it and I was worried it had a inner shielded wire and my butt splice was making contact and grounding out on the shielding-- didn't see an inner core wire when I repaired it though. Could this possibly be a issue with the CTM? I don't have key fob's so cant set the alarm. Truck is a SLT Laramie and the build sheet states it has the factory alarm system. Any help on where to look would be much appreciated as I am NOT a wiring guy and no real good with all that stuff!! Thanks

2 stroke oil mix ratio is: 1 ounce to 1 gallon Cant speak on the anit-gel as i am in Alabama, not really cold enough to need it here.

My cruise light is on the IC and green as well. I replaced my IC lights with white 200 degree LED's and it turned out a sweet Blue believe it! I will snap some pics tonight and post them up for you to see. I also did the light switch and the HVAC controls as well with the LED's. Got all the bulbs from SuperBriteLeds.com, did the exterior lighting as well from using @Mopar1973Man list he gave for them!

Silverwolf: Mods so far are just BHAF, W-T grounds mod, 100HP injectors. Nothing major as of yet! This truck is going to be a full rebuild/restore to become a long term daily driver/tow truck (bass boat and possibly a 5th wheel at some point) Tuner eater!!! its paid for so no monthly payments:) I want to bullet proof the bottom end while I have it apart, good time to do it and if I do ever bump the HP up I know it will handle it with no issues. Trans will be built to handle up to 650 HP. Planned mods after engine and trans include, Quad V2, Turbo, 4" exhaust, fat rear tires to keep it hooked up on the road. Might look at methanol injection but not real sure on that one yet. Thanks for asking and comments!

W-T: Very mindful information to digest. I do understand the DVM's lack of precision! Luckily if I need one I have access to a Milliohm Meter and a MEGGER ohm meter. We use these in Aviation quite a bit actually doing bonding checks and resistance for grounds. Most of the electronics on an aircraft are highly susceptible to bad grounds, flight in rain, snow, high humidity ect... If I had a mind to go so far, I would actually do a VSWR alignment on the said cables to ensure the load and resistance are equal for each pair. Now how is being annoying :D I will eventually get to doing your above shown modification, however, I have alot of things that are must be done before I can work parallel battery cables. As others have stated, Thank you for all your hard work and endeavors to help out the community!!

List is growing for the parts to add during the O/H. O/H guys had head studs on the quote to pay their cost for head studs-- I think I will provide the upgrade parts to save some $$$$. 1. Head studs 2. Main studs 3. Rod bolts 4. New pushrods -- Will see what mine look like, cost might say do it anyway! 5. New tappets 6. Valve springs-- Still deciding if I am going to replace them either way. 7. Mahle O/H kit-- Ceramic coated pistons???? Full gasket kit with the kit. 8. Sleeves-- Debating on just replacing them outright- Start fresh with new not bored out. 9. Cam-- To be determined-- 500 HP should be ok on stock cam unless its got alot of wear, then its a new Hamilton 10. The great UNKNOWN of what will be found upon teardown!!

Roger and thx for the input everyone!

I didn't measure it before or after. I did the mod as its a sound easy thing to do. Got the fuse link for the PCM mod as well, installing it this weekend. going to use a 7.5a fuse for it. Some of the mods that I have seen listed in the forums to me are a ounce of prevention to save a pound of cure later.

Performed the WT mod this weekend and a few things I have noticed already. 1. The WTS light pops instantly, use to miss about 2 out of 10 key turns! 2. Shifts better 3. for some reason the truck runs quieter- lotta turbo whine now The bolt I had to use was a 6X1.0 M, Copper terminal ends and soldered after crimp

I tested at the 3 way Tee above the brake booster, before the small valve (filter I think). Pulled the cap off an unused port. Basically right from the pump as the line runs straight to this fitting.