rburks
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well, looks like Edge module is toast,, been hearing lot about the Quadzilla, considering maybe that our Smarty What you guys think??
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I will explain the "FIX" but first let me clarify exactly what my issue was. It wasn't the Same "NO BUS' Issue most have reported. in fact there hasn't been any issues with my instrument cluster thus far,, not to jinks myself.. my issue began with truck not wanting to cut off.. So then i removed the "EDGE"fuse holder; which has 2-10amp fuses and is in place of ignition fuse from fuse panel in end of dash for "ignition" . truck cur off. reinserted back into fuse slot fo ignition fuse and NO START, NO FUEL PUMP,, AND NO BUS DTC ON Odometer. And oh" i forgot" this is important " there was this ticking noice coming from dash. This morning i completely removed the Edge system and replaced the edge fuse holder with a regular min 10amp fuse and truck fired right up first CRANK IM pretty sure my Edge juice box just crapped out
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NO BUS PROBLEM FIXED!!
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No, there is no codes,, just says no bus and the odometer milage blinks before the motor cranks fast but won't hit,, no fuel psi
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This evening i pulled in driveway, turned key off and got out as always { edge juice cool down timer} but engine never turned off. i came back to truck hit the brake which usually bypasses the edge timer but not this time.. i could not get the engine to stop running. finally i unsnapped the fuse box cover on end of dash and pulled the fuse from edge.. finally got it cut off.. now it won't start, noticed right off that fuel pump not running,, so i cycled the key three time to see if any codes on Odometer,, ALL I GET IS MILAGE BLINKING AND THEN "NO BUSS" I've unplugged the edge but still same thing blinking then NO BUSS
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i stored it with a half n half mix of fuel and 2-stroke
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How long can a New VP44 Be Stored without damage to internals??? I have a H.O Bluechip VP44 i didn't put 1,000 miles on, took it off and, plugged up ports after filling with a mixture of diesel and 2-stroke, stored it in box in my shop and its been there for bout 4-yrs maybe 5.... i had issues and thought it was VP. Ended up buying another Stock VP and it wasn't the issue after all RBURKS
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OK Guy's.."The moment you've all been waiting for" Here is a complete start to finish Details on Converting Standard 2-headlight system to a Sport Quad headlight sys. i did a few months ago Let me tell you it was a P.I.T.A...i had nothing to go on as none of the threads i found on any of the forums involved building your own from scratch "w/Heavy Duty Stuff" ..most of the write ups were people who had bought a pre-wired harness..like the ones for example suvlights.com or others..all reported problems either "fog lights staying on..lights would not turn off, lights would not come on or lights were dim on bright, etc... So not finding any information in relation to a possiable wiring diagram i purchased a "pre-made harness w/relays from LMC..What a piece of shi$$..i mean lets totally forget that it did not work,{ lights went out or "almost out on Dimm}...this was chineese junk a frigg'n fire hazzard. .cheap light gauge wire i could bite into. connectors that "pulled out after unplugged a time or two..and last but not least.."NO SOLDERED CONNECTIONS, ALL CRIMPED AND "NO HEAT SHRINK. See none of these aftermarket harness's will work on these Trucks neither the Chinese "JUNK" nor the other decent harness's...."WHY" you ask... ..Because no one { that i was able to find } has been able or have taken the time to "Crack This system" and build a precise fit "PLUG AND PLAY" HARNESS ". The 2nd GEN Dodges have a ODD wiring system, I Call it {for lack of a better term} Ground Switching System because thats what it does. It switches the ground Neg- instead of the POS+.. The original wiring has a hot wire to Headlight plug that HOT 24/7..all the time. SO..after tryin to get around it..I started designing & building my own system. and with much help from..MICHAEL "MOPAR MAN" i eventually completed my own system.."NOW..Im passing this information on to you guys because the lights on these trucks "SUCK"..and this is an Awesome improvment that....well ..you will have to see for your self.....AND......I DONT WANT NO ONE TO GO THRU WHAT I WENT THRU BUILDING MINE ..L.M.A.O. ***note*** I soldered all my connections & used heat shrink tubing to make a moisture free system. I also harnessed all the wires in split wire loom conduit thanks Michael Check out link below: Slideshow http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Dodge%20Sport%20Quad%20Headlight%20Conversion/?albumview=slideshow Pictures http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Dodge%20Sport%20Quad%20Headlight%20Conversion/ Below is the Parts list complete with part numbers & prices. except for the fuse holders, I got most all parts from you can find these parts at most auto or electronic's stores and they don't have to be these brands either but i suggest using quality relays w/holders to make replacement easy. COMPLETE PARTS LIST for HD HEADLIGHT HARNESS (sport HL) ***note*** This Parts list is for reference only.. Vendor, Manufacture & Brands are open to your preference 2-male headlight connector (same as bulb)............................................#CP9004CM..............7.49ea. 2- Ceramic female 9004 Connectors #CP9007CFC.............7.49ea 2-Ceramic female 9007 Connectors.......................................................#CP9004CFC.............7.49ea . 4-HELLA SPST Relays, 40A, Dual 87 outs, .............................................#HL87483...............8.00ea. **Option** 4-SPST HELLA Relays, 40AMP, Dual 87 outs, with Diode.............................#HL87753..........13.00ea. NO LONGER AVAILABLE **Option** 4-SPST HELLA Relays, 30AMP, Dual 87 outs, with Diode..............................#HL87453..........8.00ea. Available @ ralleylights.com ****** Note******* It is not mandatory to use the ones with diodes or resistors, it just helps insure safety for stereo sys, CB & The entire electronic system from EF Feedback.. You could use 30amp relays as you are using separate low and high beam circuits. In the beginning i was originally trying to use only 2 Relays, 1 on each side. I found out later this to be "IMPOSSIBLE" . YOU MUST HAVE 4-RELAYS.. You can use ones with single 87 out and wire together,, the Dual 87 out just makes a nice clean wiring system and i hat cobbled up wiring 4-Relay Holders, complete with terminals....................................................#HL87123.................3.77ea. I Strongly recommend using Holders, it will make changing a relay out as easy as changing a fuse if you should ever have to I got the fuse holders from Advance Auto....."Bussmann Inline, 12ga. wires............#BP/HUU...................5.49ea. I got the Dodge OEM Sport Headlight assembly's @ http://www.factorymopar.com they are a Dodge dealer with online OEM parts. there prices are way below local Dealership. Sport Headlight Assembly's : price= 233.64.. left side 225.38 ..right side There are Cheeper Options for the The Sport Headlights but be forewarned of the cheap knockoffs and there problems like "leaking", , not very good fitment or alignment, ,poor quality Adjusters that make adjustment difficult or impossible>>> "This is important cause you will have to dial these in and insure the Beam is to the left on LOW BEAM Driver side as to keep from blinding oncoming Cars. "The OEM Lights are pretty close out of the box ".. A salvage yard would probably be a good source if you could find any thats not damaged. **UPDATE PLEASE READ ** I have had several Guys PM me asking why is it that there HB indicator light stays burning even on LB...most of the time this issue is caused by wires being in wrong location on one of the Headlight plugs . A weak GROUND circuit will also cause this, You have to have a solid -GND circuit to the Headlight connectors. I used the spare Side post Terminal's on my OPTMA RED TOP BATTERIES POS+ & GND - post. BUT: There is a Post on front inner fender just below the Battery, there is a Solid 8# wire that runs from there that goes to Neg- post battery terminal on battery so this is as good as going straight to Neg without having a bunch of wires hanging off of your Battery causing mores battery issues in the future.. But first be sure it is solid and clean,, if not solid and free from corrosion then replace it. The other cause would be that you have a wire in the wrong place on the back of one or more H L connectors or in the conversion plug itself. Dodge sport Quad headlight conversion.doc Dodge Sport Quad Headlight Conversion- Relays.doc
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IM Guessing the Springs Solved your shuttering issues????
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check this out write up out, notice that i reinstalled the timing cover " bolts only HAND TIGHT" and then install the seal http-::s1209.photobucket.com:albums:cc389:rburks1:Crank%20seal%20install:.webloc YOU can find the complete article over in TRUCK ARTICLES ON THE FORUM
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What size Tube or pipe do I need for connecting BHAF to the TURBO Boot?? I've been running it for years without one and just soft clamping it over the lip on the BHAF but now i don't think that such a good idea after my latest turbo compressor wheel issues. Compressor wheel was pitted and DAMAGED BY WATER as was told to me by ATS.
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When you say sealing Washers are you talking g about the copper washers on end of injectors that seal injector in THE BOTTOM OF INJECTOR BORE???
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So are saying it can or can't pull through the bleed hole??
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THANK YOU , Michael, thats what I've been saying, Air would have to be in the supply side to be induced int the pressure side of VP and cause problems, .Air getting into a Line that has already left the VP and is flowing the opposite direction "causing issues with sucking air" don't make sense. SO, do you think its possible for the overflow valve to be pulled open by vacuum instead of pushed open by pressure??? Could that much vacuum be pulled on that dia. line to equal the 14psi open pressure for the overflow???
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THE REFERENCE TO fuel supply tube "BEING SUBMERGED" was to merely point out that if there is no "VOID, LEAK or CRACKED FITTING ISSUES,etc ON THE SUCTION SIDE OF SYSTEM....THATS THE ONLY WAY AIR WOULD GET IN IS IF FUEL TANK WAS RUN LOW ENOUGH TO PULL AIR IN.... thats it.. SO, dripley, it sounds like what your saying is confirmation that if there is a leak on the return side even beyond the overflow valve that it will allow the fuel pressure to drain off from the HP side of VP. HERE IS the Only way i see this "AIR LEAKING IN THE RETURN SENERO possible, "IF the copper washers were compromised or"BAD" in at least one or two injectors then if a leak developed {which could have caused the leak in the first place} then Air would be forced into the return galley in the head and out into the "T' and into the return line to tank Now this still doesn't deliver any "AIR" into the VP or cause prim issue IMHO...."BUT" What if the Compressed air from cylinder or cylinders was "GREAT" enough to create Venturi Vacuum on the OVERFLOW VALVE THAT WOULD PULL IT OPEN AND COMPLETELY SUCK THE VP DRY>>> HUH
