rburks

yes, it has to. Should be located on top of the tank from the middle toward the cab

I would check the Tank Vent tube and confirm it is not crimped or clogged... If there is that much pressure in the return it should be noticable at the vent tube. As for the INJECTOR SEAL CAUSING COMPRESSION to bypass up int the Return passage; to do that it would have to inter the connector tube bore And i pretty sure you would have a leak ouside the head at th HP fuel line/ connector tube insert or fitting. See, that much pressure will push fuel straight up & around the O-ring on the connector tube. also...you should be getting fuel in the oil...Bet the MOD'S over at CF didnt tell you this did they??? I had to learn this one the hard way.....if you dont have a leak outside the head and or fuel in the Oil, your probably are alright on the injector seals. P/S if i am understanding you correctly and the leak is at that quick disconnect coupler, i think there is an O-ring on that coupler. you have to disconnect it to replace the o-ring ...."MOPAR" knows more about this than i do...

YES, I am running a BLUECHIP X-PUMP. I installed it OCT. 2009 ( approx 5-months old) no problems, very happy with it. Service is excellent, Chip was very helpful, was even available after hours to assist me or to answer any questions.... told me every trick there was for a clean install. He even let me borrow a special tool for pulling the timing gear from IP shaft that he normally sales. This is when i first got to know MICHAEL-"MOPAR" he is the one who helped me determine , over the phone, that i had a bad VP." THANKS AGAIN MICHAEL"!!! By the way..The X-Pump is not a "HOT ROD PUMP". everything in it is OEM Bosch parts. It has a little more timing advanced, I think it is like or simular to the 245hp. H.O. that is why he tells you that if you put it on a Truck w/H.O. pump it wont make any difference. At the time I was doing my VP-replacment, I CALLED EVERY REBUILDER & ONLINE VENDOR THERE WAS AND ASKED MANY QUESTIONS BEFORE BUYING ONE FROM CHIP. HERE IS WHAT I FOUND OUT:- BLUECHIP was the 1-of 2 rebuilt pumps where the ECM on top of the pump was replaced w/new on EVERY SINGLE PUMP, reguardless of condition. "this is the cause of half the VP failures. "His ECM has a different Case to withstand heat better".- He was one of a few that automaticlly replaced the main pump housing w/the latest updated housing w/ steel sleeve for timing piston not Alum. ...Some do not replace this unless it is totally wore-out, if it shows wear within min. spec they reuse it. this is the cause for the other Half ov VP-failures.- All parts are OEM Bosch parts. If you are wanting to get off cheap, He is not the best price, there are many out there much cheaper. But if your like Me and wont a Rebuilt PUMP that has had evey know potential problem component revised or replaced w/updated parts that will result in lasting MUCH Longer than the OEM Even in HD Towing conditions, then I THINK BLUECHIP SHOULD DEFINITELY BE CONSIDERED. Regardless of who you buy one from, you should ask these questions: - Do they replace the ECM on every rebuilt pump?? - Do they replace the Main pump housing w/ latest updated version with steel sleeve insert?? - Are all parts OEM BOSCH parts?? I hope this will be of help... let us know how it turns out! Richie

I would just about bet that it is an injector issue...sounds like one is not completely sealing back shut. this will cause a very..small drip over-nite right down on the piston and when you start the engine the next morning all that excess fuel is on top of that piston and will cause smoke and rough idle until all of it is burnt off...& most of the time will not be noticable if at all driving after warm.... Have the injectors pop tested by a diesel shop..OK tell them what you are looking for that is " a drip overnite" tell him to pump up each injector twice, once to verfiy the pop-pressure and a second time to pump up to just right before the pop-off and hold it there for a few seconds.." if it drips theres your problem" Hope this will help Richie

I thought anything over 20psi would eventually rupture the diafram in the VP Pump????

Yes, it comes complete with the seal for the shaft & o-rings & gasket... but if i remember correctly it was not a double lip seal.. it worked o.k. for mine, the shaft was in good condition & was not wore where the seal rides on the shaft. Peter Goulds kit is a very good kit, comes w tool to install and everything.. he's a stand-up guy, friendly and helpful, he talked w/me on the phone for several min. and gave me some helpful tips on installation even though i did not buy the kit from him. I would say that if your shaft is wore you should go with his kit. I think the price is around 60.00 I FOUND MINE LEAKING WHEN I INSTALLED MY VP PUMP AND HAD ALREADY BOUGHT THE CUMMINS KIT BEFORE I CAME ACROSS HIS WEBSITE...fixingrams.com "PETER GOULD"

WOW!!! Thats quite a bit of difference in price... I bought a injector line the other day , price was 80.99 @ cummins.... 159.00 from dodge dealer

"I would think Nothing,.. it sets there until it builds 14psi and then opens & closes in a nano second, will be very hard to actually see on anolog gauge when only falling back 1-2psi.." with a lift pump thats shot it may not open at all which means 0 return... = wiped-out VP pump

Well' Give this a thought, If the overflow valve on the return side is stuck open or partially stuck open then the fuel pressure would only build up & hold as long as there was pressure comming in...When you are idling or deaccelerating very little pressure is flowing thru the VP Pump and with the stuck overflow valve there can't be any pressure because it is being released as quick as it comes in I mean i could be wrong so take for what its worth ...sound logical though

Michael.. when you had you injectors pop tested did the shop have a special setup specific for these injectors???? see here is what i am thinking is that the local shop(28mil. away) has a pop testing bench but i dont know if he can do these because of the connector tubes.. Ithink the problem is in the connection with the connector tube... did not find any burs but it looked dicolored and it seemed to me that the connector tube didnt feel quite right in the seat

O.K. i think i found the problem, the injector is bad. I know it go aginst al logic but injector has to be the problem.Last nite when i pulled out both #3 & #4 and swapped them i kept the injector tubes paired with the injector they were with, I must have nicked the o-ring on the old one i put back into #4 and they both must have been leaking and i just did'nt see the leak on #3 by it being dark with little light.Today i pulled the connector tubes back out and replaced o-ring on both and when i started engine and let it run for a short while # 3 was pooring fuel and #4 was dry... ran for a long time CT at 190 degrees still # 3bleeding fuel and #4 dryHas to be the injector

O.K I have exchanged injectors around at #3 & #4, that is i put #4 injector in #3cyl. & #3 in #4 cyl. still leaks at #4 There was'nt any debris at the connections, I completely removed the fuel line from the injection pump and looked at it again and cleaned up everything really good. blew out the holes in the head and swabbed them out with a rag. IS THERE A CHANCE THAT THE INJECTOR IS NOT SEALING DOWN IN THE CHAMBER HOLE & LETTING FUEL BE COMPRESSED BACK UP TO & THEN AROUND THE CONNECTOR TUBE OUT TO THE THREADED INSERT.....THATS THE WAY IT IS LEAKING RIGHT OUT OF THE THREADS AND OZZING DOWN THE SIDE OF THE HEAD, ITS NOT SQUIRTING OUT AT THE LINE BEHIND THE NUT.

O.k. This evening I took out #4 injector, did not see anything wrong other than the tip seemed very black w/soot. o-ring look fine. i did notice that the injector clamp bolts were not very tight, the clamp slid out from under the rear bolt really easy, so i put it back together and still leaking I did torqe the bolts on 89 inch lbs, but there is no way to torque the rear one under the rocker, you think this might have something to do with the leak??

Michael, Your thinking the way im thinking. and with both of us thinking is good ......It has to be something to do with that injector or the connection with the tube

thats strange, mine does not have a cooler for the P/S

Yes, it sounds like it is the limited slip in the diff. have you changed the oil in in rear diff?? if so did you add the friction modifier additive, (limited slip additive) ?? Richie

OK , I replaced the Connector tube & o-ring with a new one from Cummins, it still leaked. So i replaced with new the hp injector line from VP to connector tube at the head #4 cyl. still leaks. Its got me think that the leaking fuel is comming frome around the connector tube and being forced under high pressure up & around the o-ring on the connector tube I will take out the injector today and see if there is any problem there, it has to be something at the injector, there is nothing left. I will let you all no how it turns out... Richie

What do you mean by test and adjust the injectors, To my knolwege they can only be pop tested to see if the pop pressure is within OEM tollarance. if one is week or dripping it can only be replaced. this can slightly through off your overall matched pressure tollarance's between the set of 6. Now if you are lucky enough to find a good diesel shop with with a nice Tech. like Mike did they may be willing to pop test 3 or 4 new ones to try and closely match your other ones NOTE:.. A SET OF NEW O.E.M. INJECTORS CAN VARY AS MUCH AS 11% FROM THE LOWEST TO THE HIGHEST. THE DDP INJECTORS I INSTALLED 2-MONTHS AGO WERE GUARANTEED TO VARY ONLY 2% OR LESS, 30-DAY MONEY BACK GUARANTEE. I COULD TELL IT AS SOON AS I FIRST STARTED THE MOTOR, I NEVER HEARED A 24V ISB IDLE THAT SMOOTH. RICHIE

Went over the flared end of the line lightly with very fine grit sandpaper just to make sure there was no burs or scratches.

Hey Guys, I thought i would post this link to buy the Vacuum pump seal kit from cummins online, This company { HOESLI DIESEL in Evansville,IN} is a Cummins Authorized Service center & distributor. As you will see on there site, they stock all Dodge cummins 5.9L diesel O.E.M. parts. There was a thread on CF yesterday where a Guy was quoted one from Dodge @ 112.00++ HOESLI DIESEL: PHONE# 1-800-487-1001 OR 1-812-473-5604 hoeslidiesel.com/store/page2.html Cummins part# 4089742 vacuum pump seal kit price $10.76 REMEMBER TO BE SURE YOU LET THEM KNOW YOU GOT THE LINK FROM THIS WEBSITE, SO THEY WILL SEE THE NEED TO ADVERTISE ON MOPAR'S WEBSITE OR FORUM

O.K. I think i have found the cause for the High Idle Spudder or cough. remember this is not a dead miss. it pulsate's at random while holding it at high idle simuliar to one hitting water or running out of fuel but more suttle. #4 INJECTOR LINE IS LEAKING UNDER WOT OR HIGH IDLE, have tried tightening even tried taking it loose and cleaning, still leaks. will replace o-ring on connector, although i thought fuel would only leak into engine if there was a leak??.

Mopar fuel psi at 16+ at idle, 14-15 at high idle, it now drops to 12psi WOT or in a pull. One othe thing, if turn the key and bump starter without starting the engine, allow the AD-lift pump to run it will build pressure up to 16-17 psi until it shuts off and then it falls like a rock to 1-psi. WEBSITE LOOKS GREAT, I THINK ITS GOING TO TAKE A LITTLE WHILE TO RE-LEARN MY WAY AROUND, LOL

O.K. I just looked up the code #230- Lift pump circuit out of range. What does this mean???

O.K , Today I noticed that when i idled up engine around 1800-1900 i noticed a slight miss{ fuel knock}. When i fuel it up to 2000 and held it there steady it got worse, 2100+ was worse. Injection pump & AirDog Lift pump 3-MONTHS OLD, new DDP injectors 2-MONTHS OLD I almost think its water in fuel but i thought the AD water seperator takes care of that getting these codes: PCU 0500 ECU 0230 Anyone know what this ma be?? Richie